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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Right, time to revive a long since dead build post.

I'll be documenting things here as I get a bit further along. most of these forums are dead or on life support since the book of face has taken over most gathering places, but people that are google searching can find forum information much quicker/easier.

with that said, let's catch up what's taken place over the past almost 4 years. I do still have the GTR. It's now been relocated to America and has been sat dry stored for the past 2.5 years mainly untouched while life got in the way of things. Here are a few photos of the car being picked up from my home in the UK and being dropped off at long-term storage
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I am not doing the conventional build where people tear straight into what's under the bonnet and neglect the other 30 year old, tired bits... No, I'm building the car from the ground first.

Sorting the chassis first with complete suspension and brake overhaul, then I'll be doing full maintenance of fluids, few fuel lines, new water lines and vacuum lines and refreshing as much 30 year old rubber as possible. Then hopefully I can just enjoy driving it again for a bit before getting further in with the refresh, think of it as a number of phases I suppose.

Off we go
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I've mainly been accumulating parts the past 6 months or so. Here's what's going on for suspension refurb

Suspension bits that will be going on:
  • Rear:
    • Nismo lower A-arms
    • Hicas is already deleted, but the GTR shop put a dodgy driftworks kit in, so that will be getting replaced with billet toe arms from Voodoo13
    • Rear upper camber arms - Voodoo13
    • Traction arms - voodoo13
    • New rear wheel bearings and hubs - genuine nissan
    • Subframe and diff bushings - whiteline
    • anti-roll bars - whiteline
    • full subframe refresh bolt kit - SR Autobodies / SR Autosource (top lads)
    • Subframe reinforcement kit and anti-squat fix for R32 - GKTech
    • Rotors - 2 piece slotted 350mm x 20mm
    • Calipers - 4 Pot Brembo from Cadillac CTS-V and custom bracket, Stainless lines
    • CV Boot kit for inner and outer rear axles - genuine Nissan
    • Kansai Service strut tower bar - rear
    • Subframe reinforcement arms - KTS

  • Front:
    • all new bushings and ball joints
    • Refurb'd stock upper camber arms and lower arms
    • New wheel bearings and hubs - genuine Nissan
    • Front Tension Rods - SPL Parts (with SPL Parts brake air guides)
    • New anti-roll bar and drop links - Whiteline
    • roll center correction - GKTech
    • New Inner and Outer track rods and ends - genuine Nissan
    • ABS delete lines - GKTech
    • 355mm x 32mm 2 piece slotted rotors
    • Calipers - 8 Pot Brembo from E55 AMG Merc. and custom Bracket, Stainless lines
    • CV Boot kit for inner and outer front axles - genuine Nissan
    • Kansai Service strut tower bar - front
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
photos of some of the suspension bits going on.
 

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1995 Skyline R33 GTR Nismo V-Spec ( R28 )1999 Nismo R34 GTR V-Spec 1991 R32 GTR.
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I am not doing the conventional build where people tear straight into what's under the bonnet and neglect the other 30 year old, tired bits... No, I'm building the car from the ground first.

Sorting the chassis first with complete suspension and brake overhaul, then I'll be doing full maintenance of fluids, few fuel lines, new water lines and vacuum lines and refreshing as much 30 year old rubber as possible. Then hopefully I can just enjoy driving it again for a bit before getting further in with the refresh, think of it as a number of phases I suppose.

Off we go
Best way to build from " frame up" . It's the only way I'll do my R32, and R34 that I've bought from Japan. Slow builds but worth it . Now I'm retired I've all the time in the world for my projects 🤠
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Best way to build from " frame up" . It's the only way I'll do my R32, and R34 that I've bought from Japan. Slow builds but worth it . Now I'm retired I've all the time in the world for my projects
Everything is so tired on these 30 year old cars, I can't imagine not starting with the chassis first
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Great list of goodies. I did this with my R32 GTR and the difference it made was unreal. Will feel like it's on rails with good rubber and the MeisterR ZetaCRD's
That's my expectation as well, very much looking forward to getting it back together

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
started the disassembly of the rear - dropped the subframe and stripped it completely. I'll do a write up of step by step of how to remove the subframe in a little bit. was able to remove the subframe by myself in my garage, not too bad actually. here's a few photos of that process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
In case anyone is searching the internet for this:

How to remove R32 Skyline GTR rear subframe by yourself - step by step. This worked perfectly for me hopefully others will find it useful and suit their needs.

  1. Get the car off the ground, use a hoist, jackstands or whatever you have at your disposal. the subframe will need to be completely unencumbered so you cannot place anything under the subframe or the "L" brackets
  2. Remove rear wheels
  3. Remove rear calipers and hang out of the way
  4. Remove rear brake rotors
  5. Remove anti-roll bar
  6. Remove Exhaust
  7. Disconnect Lower Shock bolts (I actually went ahead and removed the rear struts completely to make it easier, but at a minimum remove the lower bolts)
  8. Unbolt the rear propshaft from the diff (make sure to mark the orientation of how it is mounted with a paint pen)
  9. Disconnect the handbrake cables underneath the car (near the propshaft)
  10. Disconnect and drain the Attesa fluid from the reservoir
  11. Disconnect the front Attesa line (near propshaft)
  12. If you still have Hicas - disconnect the hydraulic lines
  13. Disconnect the 3 electrical plugs that attach to the Attesa unit above the diff (The grey one will be a nightmare)
  14. Disconnect the "L" brackets
  15. Disconnect the various earth strap/ground straps that connect the Atessa to the chassis
  16. Support subframe with jack of somesort
  17. Remove the 4 subframe 17mm nuts
  18. slowly lower the subframe out of the vehicle

There you have it, pretty straight forward. Took me about 2 hours start to finish to remove everything myself, and about 30 minutes of that was me trying to undo that stupid grey plug above the diff
 

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1995 Skyline R33 GTR Nismo V-Spec ( R28 )1999 Nismo R34 GTR V-Spec 1991 R32 GTR.
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Rotor size comparison of the big brake kit I'm putting on. Only took photos of the rear so far.

This setup will retain the factory handbrake
Big brakes all the way around, makes stopping a breeze and fun. Just remember to buckle your seatbelt, no need for faceplants. You'll need to relearn your deep braking in corners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
That's a big disc for the rear 😲 , what callipers are you going for? An R35 setup?
Fronts are 355mm with 8 pot Mercedes E55 AMG brembos
Rears are 350mm with 4 pot Cadillac CTSV brembos
custom brackets to fit (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
subframe completely stripped now and is being modified with a GKTech anti-squat kit

couldn't free the rear passenger side axle from the hub and needed to take it to my mate's shop to have it pressed out. required 20 Tonnes and acetylene :oops:
 

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