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tyndago said:
They are not really torque limiters in as much torque split controllers. The thing you want to do is limit torque to the front wheels. Sooner or later, big power GT-R's break the front diff. Break front axles. Break front propshaft.

The best way to remedy it, rather than just make everything stronger, is to limit the torque going to the front wheels.

The hydraulic levers just take the electric pump out of it. Less parts to fail. Less weight.

Lock up the center diff like a AWD car. Its what seems to work best for drag racing.
But if you lock up the center diff so it constantly is 50/50 that means is will put more load on the front diff, will that last very long at all really?

Cheers
 

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Bateman said:
But if you lock up the center diff so it constantly is 50/50 that means is will put more load on the front diff, will that last very long at all really?
Theres no way a GT-R transfer case can actually do 50/50. It might say it on the gage, it might say it in the books, but in real life...


I actually should have said - partially lock up the center diff. Or put enough pressure on the center clutch pack to provide power, but not enough to snap parts.
 

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tyndago said:
Theres no way a GT-R transfer case can actually do 50/50. It might say it on the gage, it might say it in the books, but in real life...


I actually should have said - partially lock up the center diff. Or put enough pressure on the center clutch pack to provide power, but not enough to snap parts.
If you use a system like this and pump the pressure up enough
it will lock up the clutch pack in a 50/50 split and yes it was bust the diff

Been there and done it:chairshot

 

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If you use a system like this and pump the pressure up enough
it will lock up the clutch pack in a 50/50 split and yes it was bust the diff

Been there and done it:chairshot

for years I been dying to ask someone (who speak english) about this 2nd handbrake system. when i asked JUN about it, i couldn't understand its procedure.

he was saying "before burnout, we do this this. after burnout we do this, just before lauch we do this this." someway in between he said "pump this and lock this" i was lost when he was at his 1st "this"

Mr.Keith, can you school me on this.. pls..:nervous:


oh btw tyndago, you need to ungrade your transfer case too to do 50/50 split. or it will just slip
 

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oh btw tyndago, you need to ungrade your transfer case too to do 50/50 split. or it will just slip
You do not want to lock the transfer case at 50:50. If you do, you will break the front diff, front axles, and front driveshaft.

You only want to send about 20 percent or so to the front on a big power car. Anymore, and you will break parts on every pass.
 

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yep. we have upgraded the diff with nismo 4.4 and running hks shaft. no so sure the axle can be upgrade.

just notice Keith is a banned member here. ah... anyone know about the 2nd handbrake system?
 

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The lever is used as a simple pump to pressurise through a valve the clutch pack on the transfer box. You need to fit a good pressure guage and a return route valve to release the pressure as you don't need 4WD all the way. The return valve should be solenoid driven, triggered by the EMS.

Keith told me what the maximum pressure you should use is without breaking the front diff, however it may be one of his "secrets", perhaps Hugh can check with him if he minds releasing the "knowledge".

DaveG
 

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so, zero/low pressure for burnout. ie RWD
then pump to the magic max pressure before launch. in that way?

when do we release the valve lock? dont we want it RWD pass 200m

anyone willing to draw a setup diagram?
 

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Yes. Then some clever man to do another switch so you can drive the car every day on the road.

Mick
Who is this clever man and is the switch available?

Can a car with a Holinger box be driven everyday in town?
 

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how fast are you guys planning to go on the 1/4 mile...i dont know much but every time Rob form RIPS posts his signature says:

Street car: R32 GTS4, 100% stock unmodified internals, standard g/box, [email protected] 600+whp. Fastest street skyline in NZ.

Does anyone know how the hell he did that or what other transmission upgrades he had???
 

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Street car: R32 GTS4, 100% stock unmodified internals, standard g/box, [email protected] 600+whp. Fastest street skyline in NZ.

Does anyone know how the hell he did that or what other transmission upgrades he had???
Some people have more "LUCK" , than others. There a lot more people that break 3rd gear than make it into the 10's on a stock gearbox.

I've done both. Broke 3 standard gearboxes - 3rd gears in a month, and run 10's on a standard gearbox.

I have also worked on GT-R's for 8 years, and I see a lot more broken gearboxes at lower power levels, than guys going really fast. Rob got lucky, but sooner or later, the luck runs out, and all the teeth come off 3rd gear.

You can run a sprung hub clutch, you can run Redline Shockproof Heavy in the boxes. You can shift easy into 3rd. The same box I ran multiple 10 second passes on, a customer broke about a week later in his street car.
 

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Yep, I know 2 GTR's that do so :cool:
Take those sunglasses off and tell me more! You know two people who run Holingers/sequentials in everyday cars? Or you know two people with secret switches? :D
 

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how fast are you guys planning to go on the 1/4 mile...i dont know much but every time Rob form RIPS posts his signature says:

Street car: R32 GTS4, 100% stock unmodified internals, standard g/box, [email protected] 600+whp. Fastest street skyline in NZ.

Does anyone know how the hell he did that or what other transmission upgrades he had???
There were no modifications to the box, axles, diffs etc, all old used stock parts with shockproof oil in the box and "tip toe" into 3rd.
I was able to run 10.50-10.70 time after time and had a real good run from an old stock box, wind the power up enough to run low 10's and it would strip 3rd more often than not.
With a box I could have been savage on and use all the power we had I'm sure it would have run 9's.
This was with a 300,000km old stock internal bottom end, stock RB25de N/A head, stock N/A cams, stock RB20det cast exhaust manifold etc so it would have been good to get a decent box in it just once to get a 9.

The only thing in the driveline that wasn't old and totally stock was the flywheel/clutch.

Rob
 

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There were no modifications to the box, axles, diffs etc, all old used stock parts with shockproof oil in the box and "tip toe" into 3rd.
I was able to run 10.50-10.70 time after time and had a real good run from an old stock box, wind the power up enough to run low 10's and it would strip 3rd more often than not.
With a box I could have been savage on and use all the power we had I'm sure it would have run 9's.
This was with a 300,000km old stock internal bottom end, stock RB25de N/A head, stock N/A cams, stock RB20det cast exhaust manifold etc so it would have been good to get a decent box in it just once to get a 9.

The only thing in the driveline that wasn't old and totally stock was the flywheel/clutch.

Rob
RIPS = LEGEND! :bowdown1:
 

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There were no modifications to the box, axles, diffs etc, all old used stock parts with shockproof oil in the box and "tip toe" into 3rd.
I was able to run 10.50-10.70 time after time and had a real good run from an old stock box,
So then would you say if you stuck someone else in your car, and they drove it down the dragstrip, that they would be as likely to break the box, as make a full pass ?

Seriously Rob. I know you went fast on a stock box, but there are many more people that break 3rd gear well before they make a 10 second pass.

On one gearbox, I run a ton of 10 and 11 second passes, loan the exact box to a customer with a 500 whp car, and he breaks it the 2nd day he is driving on the street. With me driving a 600 whp R33 - 10 and 11 second passes, with him driving, shears all the teeth off.
 

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Sean, maybe some poeple need to learn to drive a little better/smoother then, being overly agressive and smashing it through the gears is not the way to go fast in any case.

Here's the car with the stock motor, stock box etc and the 10.2:

http://www.ripsltd.com/performance/video/RIPS_GTS4.mpg

Rob
 

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Sean, maybe some poeple need to learn to drive a little better/smoother then, being overly agressive and smashing it through the gears is not the way to go fast in any case.
Have you EVER broken a GT-R/GTS transmission ?

Has any of your customers EVER broken a GT-R or GTS transmission ?

We can sit and say to drive smoother, but its not going to happen.

After breaking 3 in a row, I made sure I was smooth and easy on 3rd gear. Most owners will give up after the first box, and want something else that won't break.

This is why OS Giken gearsets, Pfizner gearsets, Quaiffe gearsets, Holinger sequentials, OS Giken sequentials all exist for a GT-R. They exist because the stock stuff breaks. It exists because most owners will break it, and when they do, they want more. They don't want to stick with the stock parts that break.

Its like front diffs, you said before you hadn't broken one, thats fine, but I have , and a number of customers have on the street.

Ignoring the issues, and saying that stock is fine is not the answer. It needs to be realistically discussed with people that don't want to break things.

Everything is a link in a long chain of parts. I make recommendations to people based on what I see, and what I have seen. I am realistic, and I expect my explanations to be realistic.

A customer is a lot more likely to break a transmission going for a 10 second pass, than make a 10 second pass with a stock transmission.
 
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