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Discussion Starter #1
looked at some of the treads put on here on this but still unsure of the best way and the best battery to use

would like to put the battery in the boot behind the back seat
but also have a strut brace so thinking of a smaller battery so

to quote the man.....

"ive been looking on the internet this week and found THIS......."

linky link...

any advice on which way to go ??

Nigel :popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
would somthing like that be ok to start/run lights at night etc

not looking at having a monster ice install add's too much weight ......
 

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I have the 30 but the install isn't finished in the boot. OMP master switch in the ciggy lighter hole.

Plenty big enough for general usage but the alarm will drain it on long term storage. It's as big capacity wise as a stock 32 battery.
 

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Your lights, stereo 'n stuff will be driven by the alternator once the Car is running :) In fact, you could remove the battery once it runs. You shouldn't do this on certain cars, as it may damage the charging circuit of the alternator.

I've got a Stinger SPV20 Battery, but as I don't use the car every day, I use a CTEK Trickle charger. They're great little units and come with a quick-disconnect cable. I'd recommend them for a non-daily driver.

Just don't take a lead acid battery, since they sometimes vent gas. Not good for your health.

Marc
 

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Discussion Starter #6
how long will the positive cable have to be to reach front of the car ??
and which way is the best to route it ??
 

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My first 32 had it routed under the car (as arrived from Japan) but after it came loose and shorted on the front prop I certainly wouldn't have it there again!

This time I have an R33 battery cable and it is being routed under the carpet (with fixings every 12") up to the centre console for the cut off switch, then out following the driver's side loom to the engine bay. 200 Amp mega fuse in line straght from the +ve terminal to blow in the event of a main cable short to earth (not want you want if you ever end up in a smash).
 

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I've wondered on occasion what the point of this is on a Skyline. I've done it myself on a Pulsar, but there is a very good reason for relocation on a GTi-R as the battery restricts air flow to the intake quite badly.



Most people either swap the position of the battery and the intake or relocate to the boot. So, what's the point on a Skyline? The battery is nice and tucked away, seemingly not in the way of much of anything.

This is not a dig by the way, I'm sure there's a valid reason, I'm just curious :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
for me its just more room for catch tanks and cleaner looking engine bay

dont think it makes much difference to weight distribution
 

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I've wondered on occasion what the point of this is on a Skyline. I've done it myself on a Pulsar, but there is a very good reason for relocation on a GTi-R as the battery restricts air flow to the intake quite badly.

Most people either swap the position of the battery and the intake or relocate to the boot. So, what's the point on a Skyline? The battery is nice and tucked away, seemingly not in the way of much of anything.

This is not a dig by the way, I'm sure there's a valid reason, I'm just curious :)
Better weight distribution*, it neatens up the engine bay, makes room for a decent size catch can etc.

* most batteries add about 15kg of mass way in front of the front axles.
 

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deffinatly weight distribution and to make room for oil catch/breather tanks plus to have a much better sized battery as those standard size batteries are useless
 

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I have run mine under the car. From memory it was about 7 metres of cable. As others have said I routed it next to the brake lines. In retrospect I'd route it inside the car - it's safer there and you'd need less cable.
 

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the cable i used was 0 AWG audio cable so was a bit chunky to run through the inside of the car .

also i used 5m for the positive cable which only just fitted for my route from the front into the back like in my pictures plus used an extra 30cm for the earth cable so to play safe i suppose like Cris said , 7 meters would cover it ok .

under the car were the cable went along side the brake lines i put cable ties roughly 6 inch's apart from each other all the way along to make sure there was safely no sagging of the cable plus a rubber grommet into were i made the hole in the boot .

i didnt run the cable over to the left side of the boot from under the car first just incase the wire was in any danger from heat of the diff .
 

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the cable i used was 0 AWG audio cable so was a bit chunky to run through the inside of the car .
Way around that is to run two parallel runs of smaller gauge cable, ie. 2x 3-4 AWG would do the trick.
This is much easier to run inside the car.
 
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