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Discussion Starter #1
hi Guys,
I wasnt satisfied with the current options for oil pumps. For what I learned the real problem with the RB26 oil pump is the drive collar. Yeah you have longer noses but getting high in the RPM the pump rotor will crack. Yeah, you have stronger rotors, but they will crack in the end as well.
I asked my cat (he's good at CAD) and he designed me a new oil pump. I use a different drive collar with Multi-splines, instead of just two flats. See the pics. Let me know what you guys think.






The rotor is the same size / capacity as the supra rotor and also used by tomei in their bigger pumps. The rotors cost next to nothing from the Toyota dealership, that is awesome :)
The drive collar is also the Toyota item (it's currently available in the aftermarket).
I am rebuilding one of my RB26's anyways (the one going into my bee-r R334), so I can crimp the drive collar to the RB26 crankshaft in the same way I would convert it from small nose to long nose.

Any feedback? There are no test results yet (this unit in the picture is the only one I have machined) and this is neither a for sale thread. Just checking what you guys think about it. I already got my flamesuit on :)
 

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nice work - it will be interesting to see how it stands up to abuse.
 

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WOW, great work there...

There could be a good market for that out there if it can prove itself!.

TT
 

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I had always assumed rotor failure was due to crank nose flex, loading the rotor and partially seizing it in the housing. No hard evidence, just a gut feeling given the long rather spindly nose on the 26DETT cranks. It will be interesting to see if a different drive pattern makes any difference though. It looks very well conceived. Is there easy external access to means of adjusting the pressure relief valve Arnout? Nice work, a credit to you.
 

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I look forward to the results as well!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Chris, yes external pressure relieve valve. Also that one of the supra (same size and double spring loaded).
Also I have made room for a crank timing trigger wheel / sensor, so you can get rid of the stupid nissan CAS system in one go.
Will put it on my engine soon and make some pics! Hopefully before Christmas!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Chris,
maybe you remember some time ago I bought four ABS a like VR sensors from you. I was thinking of using those or something similar.
 

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I don't but that's a facet of getting old. That sensor I linked to is very popular and rubust, I have one on my own RB26DETT engine, on a custom bracket and custom trigger wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok valid point. I do prefer a VR sensor over a hall sensor as the signal amplitude gets bigger the higher the revs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well it took me ages to design and think out. And find a good machine shop that can machine my idea. I have a machine shop locally but they Always tell yes and Always do no. Actually pretty much like most tuners but then in the cnc-processing :)
I'm pulling my N1 pump off my rebuilt RB26 tonight and will make some pics of the pump on the engine. I need to pull the crank and lace it to a crimp fitting for the oil pump drive. I bought the oil pump drive from Brian Crower. They have it for their supra stroker kits. it's a nice piece to crimp to the rb26 crank. fingers crossed for the first testing :)
 

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Nice to see somebody finally pulled his finger out and made something to well (hopefully) cure all our rb related problems in one go :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What do you mean? Shrink fit the collar?
Yes like in this picture. I will lace the old stupid 'two flat' drive piece for the RB pump (upper crank) completely round and I will press-fit (heat the brian crower gear a little) and locktight it on the crankshaft (like the supra crankshaft, lower).

 

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:bowdown1:
Superb effort. Watching very closely.

You'll get a lot of interest if you decide to make more.:thumbsup:
 

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Great work:)

The gears are genuine Toyota items? Are they made of steel billet and not a sintered material right?
 
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