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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Just had a worry i wanted to ask about. Hehe..
I think its paranoia because if anything goes wrong, it wont be cheap i know.. :)

My car is a 2000 R34 GTR with about 65000kms on the clock..

Anyhow, my engine mods are fairly standard..

Power FC
Blitz Nur Spec 4 exhaust
AutoSelect front pipe
2x SSQV BOV's
2x HKS Filters
Oil Cooler
Trust Radiator
Apexi GT Intercooler
Nismo Intank fuel pump

Maybe more but thats all i can remember now..

But it was previously making satisfactory power at 0.9 bar for low boost and 1.2bar at high boost..

Recently, i got the following parts put in.

2 x HKS GTSS turbo's
HKS intercooler piping
HKS 660cc injectors
Sard Fuel Regulator
Tomei 1.5mm metal head gasket
All gaskets changed to HKS like manifold etc

HKS 264/264 cams
Cam Pulleys
RB20 AFM's

I think thats about it.

So theres a few things im worried about.

Now the car idles funny.. Like brrrupp brrup brupbbrup brup kinda sound..

Not steady idle but i didnt know that 264 cams does this. According to the mech, he said that a combination of the cams + the BOV + the larger AFM does this.. Is this true?

Secondly, Eiichiro of Autoselect tuned the car to 1.4 bar on low boost and now 1.7bar on high boost!

Bear in mind of course that ive done no internal work to my engine at all except the head gasket.

According to him, the compression ratio is now slightly lower thanks to the thicker and stronger metal head gasket so he is confident using 1.7bar for short sprints but not for continuous racing.

Will anything go wrong in due time if i run such high boost? Especially on a standard motor?

Thanks
Regards,
Kenny
 

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1.7bar does seem to be beyond the efficiency range of GT-SS turbos. But well, if it has been mapped correctly, your internal block should stand up to the power.

I've never heard a car with HKS cams but I've heard that they are lumpy at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey guys..

Addendum.. :)

I managed to pick up the car tonight but im still driving it without air filters and only the AFM just to get it to the house until they find the right filter size for the RB20 AFM's which are humongous.

So anyhow, the idle is so lumpy that sometimes when im coasting towards a roundabout or an intersection, i clutch in and engage neutral and then release the clutch.. The idle jumps and dives and the car stalls.

On top of which, trying the 1.4bar now and 1.7bar, i dont feel much of a difference from the way the car was with the standard turbo's.

Is this supposed to be the way it is or is the tuning bad?

Could the lumpy idle be because the air filters are not in and the AFM are registering turbulent readings?

The power isnt really that impressive over the standard turbo. I dare say the standard turbo feels better.

But now ive got cams and head gasket with more boost etc and still it doenst feel that fast.

Is something wrong?

Hehe
im just worried..

Thanks

Best Regards,

Kenny
 

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I had the stalling problem with mine. found a boost pipe joint leaking pressurised air. it also wouldn't register full boost on my greddy boost guage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
turby: No i am not. Running standard internals. Only thing done to the engine is a new 1.5mm Tomei metal head gasket and cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
DUNCAN-GTR: Mine registers full boost on my Defi BF meters..

But still the power isnt that awesome. Really not that far off standard turbo's.. Is this the way that it shd be? Esp after having added on cams, cam pulleys head gasket and running so much more boost?
 

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If you're outside the efficient range of the turbos then you'll just be heating up the air, which reduces power. General concensus is that you shouldn't run more than a 'safe' 500bhp on standard internals (can take up to 600bhp allegedly). 264/264 cams and 1.3 bar should see you very close, if not just over, 500bhp. With 660cc injectors and 1.7bar I fear for the guts of your engine!!!

As regards the idle - I've got HKS 264/264 cams in mine and the idle is nowhere near as smooth as standard cams. Although rough idle could be symptomatic of an air leak - running 1.7bar may have been too much for one of your hoses (split) or you may just need to tighten a jubilee clip up somewhere. When I got my car back with the GT-SS turbos and 264/264 cams it idled horribly until I eventually found that my atmospheric dump valve was leaking. I replaced it with a recirc and the idle is much, much better (although still a smidge lumpy).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Jim27: Thank you very much for your feedback bro. Appreciate it.

The funny thing about this all is i got the car dynoed yesterday and the results are as follows:

350whp @ 1.4 bar
384whp @ 1.7 bar.

Interesting given that a friend of mine, running exactly the same setup, MINUS the turbo's and headgasket, meaning still std turbo's and headgasket, dynoed the following.

401whp @ 1.1bar.

I think something is out somewhere maybe?

Btw, the figures you quoted above is hp at the engine or whp?

Thanks alot for the response again bro.
 

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...the figures you quoted above is hp at the engine or whp?
QUOTE]

At the flywheel.

Trust me - 1.7 bar on 264/264 cams and 660cc injectors should feel like a fcuking TRAIN has rammed you up the **** when it gets going!! From what you're saying there's DEFINITELY something up!

I'm no expert but you could have a faulty AFM, bad map, duff fuel pump, etc. etc.

One thing to check is your dump valve - if it's atmospheric then it might not have stood up well to the boost levels you're running leading to massive boost leak and erratic idle.

Does your car hold it's peak boost well?
 

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are you sure both turbos are spooling up ok ,as those readings are low for 2x GTSS (350whp @ 1.4 bar -- 384whp @ 1.7 bar.n ???

HKS GT2510 T04B T03 47.7 - 60.1 63T 0.6 T3 GT25 41.7 - 53 62T 0.64 BB ~600PS
HKS GT2530 T04B T03 47.7 - 60.1 63T 0.6 T3 GT25 47.0 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~640PS
HKS GT2540 T04B T04E 51.7 - 76.2 46T 0.6 T3 GT25 47.0 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~700PS
HKS GT2835 49.3 - 71.1 48T 0.5 GT28 51.8 - 56.5 84T 0.64 BB ~760PS
HKS GT-SS T04B GT25 44.46 - 59.41 56T 0.42 T25 GT25 42.4 - 53.85? 62T 0.64 BB ~560PS :confused:
HKS GT-RS T04E? GT25 51.2 - 71.1 52T 0.6 T25 GT25 47.0 - 53.8 76T 0.64 BB ~800PS
all x2 (As pair)
 

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GTSS and similar cams (I also had forged pistons) and the HKS intercooler and 700cc injectors gave 450bhp at the wheels (GTart) at 1.2bar - but that was with the fcon vpro without the afms - from experience there seems little to be gained from running the GTSS' above 1.4bar as intake temps rise sharply but I would say be very careful - I'd personally suggest a dyno run and assessment at Abeey or GTarT to avoid a very big bill in the near future....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Jim27: Thanks for your response bro.

The AFM's are brand new.. They are the enlarged RB20DET AFM's and are glowing red when the car is turned on so im led to assume they are working fine?

Im not sure what the dump valve is but the one thing that i have venting into the atmosphere is the blowby that goes into the oil catch can and out of the oil catch can into the atmosphere.

The thing is, if there is a boost leak, i wont be making my peak boost isnt it? Im still making my 1.7 bar and 1.4 bar respectively but the car does have erratic idle. The car can sometimes die on its own when i engage neutral while cruising down towards a toll booth.

Im thinking of getting it retuned down to 1.3 bar and 1.5 bar respectively but the Japanese dude that tunes my car, Eiichiro of Autoselect wont be back here until mid jan.

I could upload my dyno maps if that'll be of any help?

Thanks alot for the responses!!
Appreciate it

Best Regards,
Kenny
 

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Naaa turn the boost up mate.
Great turbos them 2.5 bar easy all day long flat out.

****


JAZZZZZZZZZZ
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Here are the graphs guys.

The higher one is at 1.7 bar and the lower one is 1.3 bar.

Thanks alot for any responses..
Abit lost..
Today the workshop took my car for a spin with me and they admit it doesnt feel as fast as it should and the power figures also show that it isnt as fast as it should.

Previously, there was once i revved the car up to 8200 rpms and half my oil catch can became full.

The japanese tuner told me that it was cause they put in too much oil when they changed the engine oil. So they emptied it out and on subsequent drives, the oil catch can remained empty.

Today he revved it up to 8200 rpm again and a small maybe 1/4th of my oil catch can filled up again but never again subsequently. Safe to assume the same thing, being too much oil in the engine or is something wrong?

Thanks again for any responses!

Regards,
Kenny

Btw: Im not so sure how im supposed to attach or upload the photos.. Can someone give me some ideas on how to get it done? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Heh.

There you go. I figured it out.

But you can see the graphs but not the text cause i snapped it with the cam on my cell..

The details of the text are as follows:

Duration: 0:0:8.446
Ambient Correction: 3% for petrol turbocharged aspirated

High Boost

Speed: 148km/h @ 7793rpm
Power: 385.1 Hp @ 7179rpm
Torque: 442Nm @ 5156rpm
A/F : 13.167 @ 2631rpm

Low Boost

Power: 350.3 @ 7542rpm
Torque: 387Nm @ 4381rpm
A/F : 12.846 @ 2542rpm

Can anyone tell me anything about these figures?

Thanks alot..

Regards,
Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Heh.

There you go. I figured it out.



But you can see the graphs but not the text cause i snapped it with the cam on my cell..

The details of the text are as follows:

Duration: 0:0:8.446
Ambient Correction: 3% for petrol turbocharged aspirated

High Boost

Speed: 148km/h @ 7793rpm
Power: 385.1 Hp @ 7179rpm
Torque: 442Nm @ 5156rpm
A/F : 13.167 @ 2631rpm

Low Boost

Power: 350.3 @ 7542rpm
Torque: 387Nm @ 4381rpm
A/F : 12.846 @ 2542rpm

Can anyone tell me anything about these figures?

Thanks alot..

Regards,
Kenny
 
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