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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, after buying my stock r32 gtr last year I have been throwing wads of cash at it to get it to around a reliable 650bhp.
Im hoping if I post my spec then the more knowledgeable of you can tell me if im missing anything for my target.

-N1 crankshaft
-N1 water pump
-N1 oil pump
-HKS pistons
-Carrilo rods
-ACL race bearings
-Tomei sump baffles
-Cosworth head gasket
-Tomei oil restrictor
-Tomei step 1 camshafts
-Adjustable pulleys
-RK Tuning head drain kit
-RC 750cc injectors
-HKS twinplate
-Nistune ecu
-Endless brake stopper
-Nismo AFM
- Greddy T78/33D turbo*
- Greddy exhaust manifold (heat wrapped)
- Greddy 42mm wastegate*
- Greddy screamer pipe
- Greddy 3" Downpipe with flexibel (heat wrapped)
- Greddy hard pipe line from turbo to intercooler
- 4" big AEM air filter
- 4" aluminium suction pipe
- arc 100m 4 core intercooler
-greddy hard pipe kit (intercooler)
-greddy type R bov
-splitfire coilpacks
-NKG spark plugs
-Decat
-HKS Exhaust
-ARC titanium cooling panel

Is anything else needed for 650? Im guessing a radiator and thermostat.

Any help is most appreciated, thanks :bowdown1:
 

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If it was my car i would buy an radiator, and oil cooler, would check thermostat and replace it if neccesary for a new oem one, and would change the oilpump for something stronger.

You could also consider mines baffle plates but wouldnt be neccesary
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Its half and half. The engine internals were done by ron at RKTuning and the rest by myself.

Is the N1 oil pump not strong enough? I thought they were good for 750.

I considered a radiator and thermostat but I never see high temps.

Ive removed the air con to make room for a oil cooler but again I never get temps over 90°.

Thanks
 

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N1 pumps would not last too long on a 750bhp engine which is pushed hard- which is why Nismo made the Nismo version with SCM430 gears instead of sintered ones as used in the N1. That is only part of the story.

The next thing to consider is oil pump inner gear clearance to the flat drive of your crank. Too much play can result in destroying the inner gear.

Some further reading:

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Who ever tells you otherwise that N1 is fine is taking a big risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did not know that about the pumps! However im only running 650bhp. Will it not be ok on this?

Its only a street car with some 'spirited driving', im quite good with keeping up maintenance.

If not what pump is recommended?

Thanks
 

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HP is not the problem the oilpump have. To much RPM or bad clearance is the problem. The oil pump is one of the weakest points of the RB26.

If you drive just up the road with little rpm it should be no problem even with a lot of power. Nevertheless you may sometime at accelerating simply break the pump rotors and then you will have a serious engine damage. This is why most prefer to buy an pump with forged wheels before they spend thousands for a new engine.
The oil pumpe on the RB26 is a chapter for its own.

Thermostat you can use the OEM one. No need for low temp. Radiator and Oil Cooler are the first things to do at a RB26 Car.
With the head orifice and baffles and without excessive Track use you dont need a head drain kit.
 

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Its half and half. The engine internals were done by ron at RKTuning and the rest by myself.

Is the N1 oil pump not strong enough? I thought they were good for 750.

I considered a radiator and thermostat but I never see high temps.

Ive removed the air con to make room for a oil cooler but again I never get temps over 90°.

Thanks
For a road car the OEM system working properly may well be OK. I have a bigger radiator but only really through necessity (OEM failure) rather than need. I have no overheating problems.

Oil cooler may not be needed on a road car either. I have a kit which I haven't fitted because I've yet to see the need.

Not sure why people are 'rating' oil pumps on bhp. RPM and pressure are surely the areas of interest. A higher pressure pump will empty the sump quicker. I see a few companies with extended sumps. Might be worth a though.

Hope that this helps.
 

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Its half and half. The engine internals were done by ron at RKTuning and the rest by myself.

Is the N1 oil pump not strong enough? I thought they were good for 750.

I considered a radiator and thermostat but I never see high temps.

Ive removed the air con to make room for a oil cooler but again I never get temps over 90°.

Thanks
I would say it should be atleast half reliable then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hate you I wanted that turbo kit :p good luck with it dude!
haha sorry mate, i messaged him the second i saw it for sale as i knew it wouldn't be their long!.

so in summary for a reliable 650bhp:
-stronger (forged) oil pump
-bigger radiator
-check thermostat
-possibly a oil cooler

have i missed anything?
 

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Did you read both articles? They should be enough to help you decide.

To conclude for reliability you have a few options.

1. An oil pump with steel gears (pay attention to flat drive clearance as per the article)

2. Spline Drive oil pump gear upgrade - a stronger solution to flat drive and as used in the Toyota 2jz engines.

3. Dry sump system

I personally would use an oil cooler to keep temps down when driven hard.
 

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I second the oil pump upgrade. I went tomei to avoid this exact issue. It's the only one out there with a completely different design and it's bulletproof. You should also get a sump extension as well since you'll be running higher pressures. Greddy makes a nice one.
 

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How long do you want it to last?
650hp for 1 hour or 100 hours?
Is this a road engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks for the feedback guys. i think for now im going to keep it limited to 550 to be safe. ive also bought a mishimoto radiator to be extra safe.

the car is going to be a fast road car, but i can't promise it wont ever see a track or 2 :chuckle:

oil pump upgrade seams to be the way to go, im going to look into them and get one fitted with a oil cooler before i remove the restriction.
 

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It's not the power destroys the pump.
It's mainly depends on the Rev's. RB26 is a high rev engine and you would likely to rev it to 8000 and beyound. It is quite a big risk leaving stock N1 pump.
And also dont forget about damper. I reccomend you coonside upgrading to Ross or ATI, old wear damper will brake even Tomei oil-pump on high revs due to vibrations, trust me, i've broken one befor upgraded my damper.
So in terms of longevity i recomend to get Tomei oil pump and check clearance betwenn oil-pump and cranckshaft. If it is to much then get a JUN collar and fit it to the cranl. Beware of custom made collars which are cheaper but dont gurantee required clearance. I've seen one which was a junk.
 

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Jun collar clearance is just as bad. The flat driv solution is pretty poor which ever way you look at it. Over in Canada the have done a lot of tests with different collars and oil pumps some are good and others bad. Tomei pumps are not immune from shattering the inner gears. Spline drive is a better solution.
 
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