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Discussion Starter #1
I want 3.5 deg camber on the front of my 32 GTR.

How?

I am on a budget, so expensive parts is out.

Drawings or spec on how to would be great!

Petter
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice, i will give you a call!

(still in English, we are both Norwegians...)

Thanks!

Petter
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pics to come, thinking of shortening then 22 mm. that will give around 3.5 neg camber

Petter
 

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Be aware thet the Nismo negative camber arms are shorter on the top, and longer on the bottom to keep bump steer in check. Just lengthening or shortening one arm may move bump steer well away from optimal, or result in the track rod end having insufficient thread to effect a toe setup within spec.
 

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You can play with toe settings. You can go as much as 3mm total front toe out in wet conditions, but it may induce some instability in a straight line or under braking. At the rear you can play with toe, too. I would be very wary of rear toe out, especially if you still run rubber bushes in the arms, as rear toe out can cause serious instability, but you may get away with zero toe, or just a tiny bit of toe out. Adjust one thing at a time!! Damper settings will change turn in, but setting dampers is an art in itself. I run Penske dampers on one of my cars, and they have a prett good basic guide to damper interaction in their user manual. I have it on my ftp site at:

ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv/penske_shock_manual/manual.pdf
 

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Fantastic info Chris! Must come and see you in the Shire, (where my folks live), when ive got all my chassis sorted.
Cheers
Bob
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
More speed in corners.

I have Tein Superstreet, and the rest of the suspention is basically stock. (in good condition)

Running 9x17 R 33 GTR wheels with Michelin slicks /yoko R32 in the wet.

Plan to have 1.2 deg neg. camber in the rear, and 3.5 neg in the front. Toe as in this thread. Caster stock.

Car is track only, timeattack on Gatebil is the main goal.

(I'm on a budget, so expensive parts is not easy to get past the wife...)

Petter
 

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Wind more front castor on, it will add induced negative camber in turns, meaning you don't need as much static negative which hurts the brakes. I'll be converting all my suspension to rose joints in due course, when the new shell arrives from Japan. I'll try and post pictures for discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So what is happening when on the limit? Understeer or oversteer?

And where is this happening? High speed bends, mid speed bends, or tight low speed corners/hairpins?
I have an Skylab controller, that takes care of most of the oversteer on exit .

Saving up for Ikeya lower arms in front to get more camber, turn-in at any speed now gives understeer... (no extra camber and Yoko R 032 tires)

Next year I will be on full slicks from Michelin, and that changes alot!

My budget have no room for 4 wheel alignement depending on the track, so I am looking for a good setup for all corners, lo and hi-speed...

Don't want to buy upper arms with bearings that dont last, hense the Ikeyas.

On hi speed corners i guess there is alot to gain on aerodynamics, but if I can optimize the mecanical grip that helps!
 

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I have an Skylab controller, that takes care of most of the oversteer on exit .

Saving up for Ikeya lower arms in front to get more camber, turn-in at any speed now gives understeer... (no extra camber and Yoko R 032 tires)

Next year I will be on full slicks from Michelin, and that changes alot!

My budget have no room for 4 wheel alignement depending on the track, so I am looking for a good setup for all corners, lo and hi-speed...

Don't want to buy upper arms with bearings that dont last, hense the Ikeyas.

On hi speed corners i guess there is alot to gain on aerodynamics, but if I can optimize the mecanical grip that helps!

So what you are saying is when you turn into the corner, there is some understeer to begin with, does it become neutral after?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yes, but on power it gets back to understeer...

But i think this is because of too little camber in front.

I think getting more camber vill fix 90%, bit tips for the last 10 will be great!

Petter
 

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yes, but on power it gets back to understeer...

But i think this is because of too little camber in front.

I think getting more camber vill fix 90%, bit tips for the last 10 will be great!

Petter
Ok, well assuming you are experiencing this problem at all types of corner speeds when torque is being transfered to the front wheels, then it sounds like too much torque transfer to the front wheels.

More front torque/power = more front tyre slip angle, and assuming your GTR is front heavy, this makes things worse.

If you run more negative camber, you gain some cornering power through camber-thrust and warms the tyres quicker, but you reduce contact patch area (which may lead to less front grip and less braking)

You can try stiffening the rear, thicker anti-roll bar at the rear or soften the front with a thinner anti-roll bar, however this will change the balance when braking and lifting off also, so becareful.

You could try softening the front dampers a little, as this will make weight transfer to the rear faster but it usually will not ultimately change the on-the-limit balance it affects the transition of understeer/oversteer, but this is worth a try as it's free. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks, mutch good advice here, this will be saved and tried asap! (spring, because there is ice and snow now here in Norway...)
 
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