[bashman40]

Hi guys my engine should be going in tomorrow just wanted to know if there are any tips you guys can give me about things that should be done and looked at before and after the start up, I know the HI-CAS system has to be reset with the wheels straightened out, run the oil around the engine beforehand (leave spark plugs out or disconnect the coil pack) and bleed air out of bleed screw for cooling system.

Any other suggestions.......

 

[Jags]

Run it in with mineral oil

 

[mattysupra]

ye, wait your turn, mine should be finished before you push in! LOL.


To be honest mate i think you should get some pics up of the rebuild so people may pick up on stuff from the pics before your engine goes back in. Or you chance the fact that someone dont come out with a clever idea after its fitted?


Out of interest , head oil drain? oil restrictor done? Extended sump? baffled sump? Clutch/flywheel? i take it that the crank etc is balanced to the pulley clutch etc (speak to nozza/naz about this)

 

[mattysupra]

Run it in with mineral oil

whats the reason behind that? (not a knock but interested for my own knowledge)

 

[alex2005]

Synthetic lubricates to well, thus doesnt allow rings to bed in, also its cheaper as it will only be in there 5 minutes.

Alex

 

[Jags]

^^what he said!

Running in an engine is really just bedding in the rings so you get a good seal. Full synthetic lubricates and protects too well.

 

[bashman40]

Matty i just want to get this car back on the road so I can actually enjoy it then it sitting there in pieces all the time. Just can’t wait to get it all mapped up and finished. Lucky for you have your supra sitting there if you get bored so you can take your time with yours, I only have a VW diesel.

I didn’t do the head drain as I’m hoping the restrictor in the head that was fitted will slow down the amount of oil that gets into the head also a catch tank with a breather will hopefully allow all those gases out that get in the way for the oil to return to the sump.

The crank was checked balanced and polished. I’m using a HKS triple plate clutch and flywheel as a temporary clutch until I’m willing to spend more money on a carbonetics one like yours.

I didn’t go down the route of an extended sump or a baffled in the sump, just going to fit a accusump after iv had it mapped.

Thanks Jags and Alex for pointing out to use mineral oil as I was going to use semi synthetic to run it in but will pick up some mineral instead.

When you guys say running in the car i was told it would take about 500 mile? Will mineral oil be ok for 500 miles? Or do i use the mineral oil just for a few miles?

 

[Jags]

Running is a huge subject of debate on it's own. Check with someone in the know BEFORE you run it in for the best way to do it. I dont want to suggest something (as I'm not informed well enough) and then you end up breaking something.

 

[mr mugen]

what happened that the car needed a rebuild?, did something pack up or did you just decide to do it

why did you need an oil restrictor? did you fit an upgraded oil pump?also what bearings did you fit?

im starting to get freaked out reading about all these rebuilds,sorry for all the questions

 

[markM3]

Re running in, my engine will hopefully be ready soon and I will be putting mineral/semi sythetic as recommended by OPIE. That will be in for 50 - 100 miles before being drained out and some more mineral/semi syn being put in for further running in.

Does anyone have an opinion how long the running in period should be? Some people say 150 to 200 miles and you're good to go however others say 1000 miles plus. Surely all you want is to seat everything and for the rings to bed in the honed bores and that wouldn't takes long, say 150 miles?

Cheers,

 

[alex2005]

The first 20 miles are the most important to bed the rings in before the bores glaze, also pussy footing around is the worst thing you can do, im not saying flog the [email protected] out of it but put it under some decent load. and engine braking also helps.

I changed my oil after the first 20 odd miles then again after 100.

I used 15/40 in mine.

Alex

 

[avhbi]

To mr_mugen,
yes alot of people rebuild them but that's mainly due to the fact that they don't know the previous history of the car and want to up the power. Where upon the weakest point can break and take the whole engine with it. It's a mixture of due diligence and to be honest bragging rights down the pub in the end. A few drag enthusiasts IIRC have run standard rb26's to 600-700bhp+ and not had any unexpected problems. i.e. ring lands cracking after a season.

I myself am stripping mine and slapping it back together as I have no history and some weird bits on it. Sofar it's been a pleasurable experience and I'm in no doubt that when finished I'll have a nice reliable 5-600bhp. I'll then take it to the ring and thrash the nuts out of it in the total reassurance that I know exactly what's inside and what liberties I can take.

Hope that helps.

 

[Miguel - Newera]

Here's some useful reading: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[markM3]

Hi Miguel,

A lot of engine builders don't agree....they feel it can shorten the life of the engine for road use, but fine for race engines that will be stripped down....all very confusing.

Alex,

How long did you run in your engine before giving it the full beans?

Cheers,

 

[Miguel - Newera]

Mark,
It's a complex subject with a lot of different thoughts from engineers and therefore one that people need to make their own minds up about I think. I'm not trying to make anybody's choice here.

Each person with a new engine should find literature, read and decide, or speak to race engine builders, etc.

 

[blue34]

Re running in, my engine will hopefully be ready soon and I will be putting mineral/semi sythetic as recommended by OPIE. That will be in for 50 - 100 miles before being drained out and some more mineral/semi syn being put in for further running in.

Does anyone have an opinion how long the running in period should be? Some people say 150 to 200 miles and you're good to go however others say 1000 miles plus. Surely all you want is to seat everything and for the rings to bed in the honed bores and that wouldn't takes long, say 150 miles?

Cheers,

I think the general consensus is to thrash it from the start to bed the rings in properly.

Important though obviously to make sure everything is fine when you first start it up, good oil pressures, no leaks, comes up to temperature and stays there, best bet is have it on the dyno if possible for the first few miles to make sure the map is OK otherwise you might want to use det cans to listen for knock on the road. If all is well then give it full throttle on and off for a good few miles then check all levels again and off you go on the road. The mineral oil can then stay in for the first hundred miles or so.

Do a search see what RIPS says. Mine went straight up to Santa Pod back in October after a re-build, did 11.07 with about 120 miles on it changed to synthetic there.

Understand you might be a bit nervous after Fighting Torque!




.

 

[bashman40]

Hi guys thanks for your views and interests. :thumbsup: I rebuilt by engine due to a smoking issue which I later found the piston had broken and scored a couple of bores.

I fitted ACL race bearings which seam to be the common choice used. The oil restrictor was added cause RB engines suffer from to much oil in the head which starves the sump and causes you to spin a bearing (search the forum loads of information on this) the oil pump was not upgraded as there was nothing wrong with the standard one and it can handle the amount of power I want to make,

My engine builder advised me to run the car in gently with little boost and to allow the car to get as hot as possible and then allow it the cool down to cold on first few runs which will allow the gasket and pistons to set in well (harden). I was told the run in on the engine would be about 500 miles with two oil and oil filter changes.

I think I will use mineral oil for the first 100 miles then swap to semi synthetic for the next 400 miles and finally change to Motul fully synthetic.

When it will start up on the first start up I wont have access to a dyno will just have to take it easy until run in then have it mapped up with new injectors, fuelling and ECU. I do wonder how Rob would advice how to run in your engine? I’ve had a search no luck to many results.

My engine didn’t go in today as my mechanic had family matters to attend to he has now promised Tuesday so fingers crossed. :nervous:

 

[mr mugen]

i see, i thought the restrictor was fitted after fitting a high flow pump,is there not a risk of starving the head of oil if you didnt do the head oil drain?

for the acl race bearings do they last as long as oem bearings? id imagine racing bearings would be changed more regularly then standard shells

hope you get it back on the road asap

 

[mattysupra]

i see, i thought the restrictor was fitted after fitting a high flow pump,is there not a risk of starving the head of oil if you didnt do the head oil drain?

for the acl race bearings do they last as long as oem bearings? id imagine racing bearings would be changed more regularly then standard shells

hope you get it back on the road asap

I would guess that the race bearings would last alot longer than standard hence you dont put standard bearings back in.

Remember that nissan had to build a engine to a budget so they will only fit what was needed for a standard engine in the first place.


As for the oil restrictor bit, im intrested in the answer to this also! The RB engine has been out for many years 32/33/34 but nissan did not see a need to fit a simple 1p reducer ! I can see that upping the flow and pressure will result in more oil in the head. Hence when fitting a higher flow pump you need to reduce the flow. or would you be better not reducing the flow but enlarging the return of oil instead? However as we are talking about reducing the flow here on a standard oil pump im not sure if this is the best plan! Nissan wanted to get that much oil up there in the first place!


Bash, while the engine is out i really think you should consider the oil return mod! Its simple to do! Or uprate the oil pump as you have reduced the flow of a standard pump here.

 

[bashman40]

I agree with matt on the bearing issue that the ACL race bearing should be better than the standard.

Regarding oil pump and oil restrictor I have read loads of different opinions. It has been demonstrated that the standard pump is good for 600 hp which is what I’m aiming for. With the restrictor my understanding was the harder the car reeves the faster the pump works, hence more oil than normal getting up into the head so it needs to be restricted. I’m sure with the restrictor in place it won’t starve the head as it will still get plenty of oil up there. Another thing that doesn’t allow the oil to return to the sump is the gases, a catch tank with a breather should resolve that issue. I have heard so many different opinions. It’s all back together now just running it in.