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Discussion Starter #381
Cheers for that...very nice!!!

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Discussion Starter #384
Well, with not much happening on the GTR I decided I MUST have a sandblasting cabinet (as you do!!:chuckle:)

Quick trip down to B&Q saw me armed with some construction materials. Got an idea of what I wanted off the net and knocked up the basic structure over the weekend......





Decided to use downlighters as cabinet lighting.....should do the job!



Looking good so far....




Got some shiny MDF which I will fabricate the media catcher (at the bottom) from. Just need to make the front door and cut out a hole for the glass.

Should be a useful addition to the garage I reckon although its gonna take up a far bit of space:eek:

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Discussion Starter #386
get on with the car LOL
:chuckle::chuckle:

Well, not much to crack on with TBH Adam....

1. Save for ECU :eek:
2. Finish buying additional ECU sensors (Lambda, AMT crank trigger kit, water pressure sensor)
3. Buy ID1000 injectors
4. Make a new injector and coil pack loom

and that's about it at the moment. There are the brakes to swap for the Wilwoods but I reckon that can wait until the car has actually seen the track a couple of times :)

so, not that much going on GTR-wise other than saving for Syvecs...hence my building Cossie YB's and sandblasting cabinets :chuckle::chuckle:

Thanks for the words of motivation though :bowdown1:

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Discussion Starter #387
More sandblasting cabinet updates :D...



Holes cut for glove mounts....
Managed to get Sealey glove mount (spares for their own range of blasting cabinets). Due to me misunderstanding their website, I only ordered 1 when I thought I had ordered 2. That problem now resolved and the other should be with me soon......

Also created a trap for the blast media.....


Will cut a round hole in the bottom for a bit of 70mm alloy pipe I have lying around. This will funnel the media into a bucket, or similar, underneath....

Got some stainless ball-bearing hinges for the front up-and-over door and fitted them. Just need to go and buy some wood for said door, some glass for the viewing window and some sort of grate to act as a shelf (whilst allowing the media to fall through underneath) and we're just about done!!

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Woodwork; metalwork; mindmapping....Is there *nothing* you cant turn your hand to ? :D

I dont know where you find the time to do all the stuff you do, but it looks awesome. ... and all in your garage by the looks of things.

Cheers

Malc
 

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Discussion Starter #389
Thanks Malc....bit of a jack of all trades :chuckle:
I stop at mapping though :D. I GET the theory but without hands-on experience, I can't see myself getting to grips with it at all!

Indeed, it is all in my garage (which is rapidly running out of room!!)

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Discussion Starter #390
Been neglecting the GTR of late...sandblasting cabinet and Cosworth YB build taking time. Also just bought a 52 plate Clio for my eldest daughtet which needs some minor fettling prior to her getting her hands on it!

That said, been studying the wiring diagrams and getting it clear in my head how I want to wire the injectors/coils packs. To that end got myself some Raychem 12/14AWG wire and will be getting stuck into that shortly.

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Discussion Starter #391
Finally managed to get some time over the weekend to do some stuff on my own car!! Been helping a mate over the last few months rebuild his little Fiesta RST and have been spending some time getting that finished!!

Decided that I wanted to fit my Race Technology Dash2 and so I knocked up a carbon surround/mount.....



Reasonably pleased with it although I DID manage to damage a bit (just to the left of the dash!) and had to repair it. Nevertheless it does the job and was designed so that the dash is recessed into its own little aperture and is semi-flush.

Next thing I did was (with some of the excess carbon sheet that I made for the dash) make a small mount for the Deutsch receptacle. This is for plugging the steering wheel into allowing the buttons to function and operate dash.



Not sure whether the TSC will stay there or be moved to the centre console...will have a think about that later...

Wiring the Dash itself is pretty straightforward as all the data will be taken from the ECU via CANbus. That just leaves the basics i.e. power, ground, switches and stuff like alternator light and sidelight warnings etc

Can't wait to get it in properly and fired up...

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Discussion Starter #392
Well, finally got it in and fired up....

OK, so the things like indicator, brake warning, sidelight warning etc are not wired yet....but the important bits like power and ground are done :clap:

Happy with the way it looks and operates...(still annoyed about the broken bit on the left but hey-ho..that's the way it is!!)



As a bonus, the dash sits perfectly under the rim of the steering wheel so nothing is obscured.



A bit of luck and good judgement there in equal measures I reckon :chuckle:

Looking good from the outside too!!!...



Just need to tidy everything away once the electricals are complete.


Also took the time to update the firmware on both Dash2 and DL1 logger so they're both current. I reckon it'll take me some time to customise the screens to the way I want them but I'm sure it'll be fun.
Sooo glad this is now done as I've had the Dash and logger for about 18 months now hidden in a cupboard gathering dust. It's good to see them in, powered up and working!!

This means that my 320kph Nismo dash is up for sale (£100) (THIS thread)

Very pleased with todays efforts!!

TT
 

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Awesome, I'm in the process of finally getting to fitting my Racepak dash too, should look similar to yours when finished, although I will have to add indicator and warning lights etc being a road car.

One thing though, what are you doing to get around the speed sensored power steering? Or are you just going to have heavy steering in the slow corners?
 

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Discussion Starter #394
I will probably try and address that with the new ECU or I might just not bother!! From what I've seen so far of the PAS schematics, the offending item is a small solenoid mounted in the crossover pipe at the off-side front of the subframe. IIRC, with NO signal the solenoid fires out a pin which reduces the flow of fluid in the system. WITH a signal it removes the pin and allows full flow of fluid.....

Or at least thats my understanding of it from the short time spent looking at it.

Might be an option to unscrew it from its holder, remove/modify the pin and put it back. OR, as i say, get the ECU to output a signal to open the solenoid.

Just have to wait and see I guess...

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I have spoken to the guys at LINK about it, and they have said with a R33 electronic speedo sensor there is a speed in and out circuit on the ECU so they can program it to suit.

....you also might find without the factory speedo plugged in you won't get a speed reading out of the ECU, I'm of the understanding the speedo sends the signal to the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #397
I have spoken to the guys at LINK about it, and they have said with a R33 electronic speedo sensor there is a speed in and out circuit on the ECU so they can program it to suit.

....you also might find without the factory speedo plugged in you won't get a speed reading out of the ECU, I'm of the understanding the speedo sends the signal to the ECU.
Factory speedo redundant with the Dash2. Will take a 'speed' reading straight from ECU which, in turn, will get get it from one of the rear wheel speed sensors (ABS ring).
Never been a massive fan of gearbox derived speed sensing, especially in modded/competition cars...once you start changing wheel/tyre sizes and diff ratio's it all goes to pot anyway. At least with direct wheel speed sensors you can get an accurate reading AND you can keep it accurate by updating the rolling radius should you change wheel/tyre.

I'm keen to connect all 4 wheel speed sensors which will not only give me an indication of speed but tell me other useful things like wheel slip etc. besides, the Race Technology Dash also uses a GPS sensor so you could use it to display speed that way if you wish...just like you can do with TomTom etc at the moment!!

TT
 

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Discussion Starter #399
Having some bother with the dash and logger....both worked fine out of the box but after reflash and sending them some custom screen configurations they have decided to play silly buggers. I suspect that there may be issues with the USB-Serial adapter im using (common with these items as they are sensitive to adapters using non-Prolific chipset) so in the process of sorting that out by adding a serial port to my PC.

Also got stuck into wiring some off-engine sensors such as fuel press/temp; oil press/temp; pre-intercooler temp; MAP sensor; ambient press sensor. Have bought some Deutsch DT connectors in 2-way and 8-way flavour which will allow me to wire the MAC boost solenoid and make custom coil wiring.
Also had some probs with the fuel pumps in that the LP pumps would work fine but the HP pumps wouldn't. I suspected that it was something to do with the relays...both were 70A Durite relays but 1 had a diode (the one feeding HP pumps). I have now swapped this out so both relays are the same and guess what.....both sets of pumps work fine now!!! I suspect I blew the diode or that it was faulty from new. Anyway...they work!

So, next on the list is to get the coil and injector wiring done and that will, essentially, be that. If everything goes to plan money-wise this month then I'll be in the position to order some new ID1000 injectors, Lab grade lambda sensor and my AMT crank trigger kit.

Then......ALL spare money can go into the kitty for Syvecs S8 purchase, install and mapping!!

TT
 

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Discussion Starter #400
Been working away over the past few nights making up a replacement coil loom. Removed the ignition amp connector from the end of the coil harness and replaced with an 8-way Deutsch connector I had available. I then used some 16AWG ETFE sheathed wire and ran 6 new lines into passengers footwell for subsequent connection to ECU. I protected the 6 wires with an initial covering of adhesive-lined heatshrink with a Raychem DR-25 outer covering......looks very professional if I do say so myself. Just shows I CAN do proper wiring jobs when I put my mind to it!!!



Then got about removing the stock injector wiring. As I will be using ID1000 injectors (for which I already have the connectors) I was always going to replace the wiring anyway. I set about removing the stock wires from the ECU end as well as tracing them back to the resistor pack (long gone!!). There's a fair amount of wiring there....



So, I noticed there are 2 gauges of wire used for the injectors, the thicker obviously for the power signal and the smaller being the ECU earthing signal. I intend to use 12AWG PVC sheathed wire for the new power signal and 18AWG for the ECU wires. Just need now to find the stock power wire from the fusible link and make a 6-way split to join with each individual injector power wire. I will then do the same job of covering in 2 layers of heatshrink for protection.



TT
 
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