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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry chaps i am a newbie here but looking for some guidance as to whats needed to get the car for 4.25 vs warranty etc on a MY17GTR

Gurus please feel free to correct me?

Mods Needed
1. Down Pipe (I know previous millteks cast DP's wont fit?)
2. Injectors 1050CC ID's or Ansu
3. Y Pipe Milltek
4. Catback (Read people say don't change because its titanium)
5. Intake

What would you do to get the best setup including warranty vs BHP?

Thanks
 

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Litchfield Stage 4.25 will be one of the best, and they will warranty it (subject to inspection and extra cost)

Basic 4.25
- Intakes
- Injectors
- Downpipes
- Exhaust
- Remap

I'd definitely add in the intercooler though.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Litchfield Stage 4.25 will be one of the best, and they will warranty it (subject to inspection and extra cost)

Basic 4.25
- Intakes
- Injectors
- Downpipes
- Exhaust
- Remap

I'd definitely add in the intercooler though.

I see you have one already and went down that route.........it must be putting a bug smile on your face :)
 

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Litchfield Stage 4.25 will be one of the best, and they will warranty it (subject to inspection and extra cost)

Basic 4.25
- Intakes
- Injectors
- Downpipes
- Exhaust
- Remap

I'd definitely add in the intercooler though.
I have the above, and IC, and reduced weight on the car by 75kg, and made it a whole lot stiffer, and the car is completely different from stock. It feels more alert and lively and sounds incredible!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Would love to see the dyno sheet on the car if possible.........was also looking at Kaizer packages few minutes ago but not sure if they warranty the work.
 

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I have the above, and IC, and reduced weight on the car by 75kg, and made it a whole lot stiffer, and the car is completely different from stock. It feels more alert and lively and sounds incredible!
What did you do to reduce weight by 75kg?
 

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You do know that modifying the car could/would possibly void your manufacturer warranty on engine and box should God forbidding anything went wrong with them, personally I'd wait 12-24months before moding a My17,but it's your car and your money.
 

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What did you do to reduce weight by 75kg?
As MR B said... Plus i had a willy reduction....

alongside,
Fitting Carbon Tillett seats
Carbon Ceramic brakes
Litebloxx battery
Non RF tires

But yes, as mentioned, it could void your warranty... so this is something you should take into account.

As also mentioned, a 102mm system is the way to go,
I cant find my dyno sheet, will have a proper look tonight.
I think with everything and IC my 4.25 gave about 685/690 on V power
 
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As MR B said... Plus i had a willy reduction....

alongside,
Fitting Carbon Tillett seats
Carbon Ceramic brakes
Litebloxx battery
Non RF tires

But yes, as mentioned, it could void your warranty... so this is something you should take into account.

As also mentioned, a 102mm system is the way to go,
I cant find my dyno sheet, will have a proper look tonight.
I think with everything and IC my 4.25 gave about 685/690 on V power
OK so you've spent a wedge and lost this weight in the R35, But does it now feel quicker? more nimble? lighter steering? OR the same?
 

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OK so you've spent a wedge and lost this weight in the R35, But does it now feel quicker? more nimble? lighter steering? OR the same?
The above, coupled with stiffer and lower springs, ARB's and the litcho handling kit makes the steering feel 'go kart like'
Very pointy, heavy steering. And with improved all round aero performance it stops MUCH better, it turns in MUCH better, understeers less (not completely dialed out because i believe the car is designed to understeer at first then compensate, plus it pulls off quicker (as it would with less weight to drag), and plus the seats looks SICK!

Car is much more aggressive than a standard GTR, and is fantastic on the track and on the road. It is my daily driver as well as my track car, so i needed the balance. I have found it at 700hp with less weight and more aggressive stance, it is now, for me and my personal preference, the perfect car.

I just now need to lose the 10kg i have gained since 2016 due to at first a broken ankle then laziness and the car will fly!

i am at the Litcho Track Day at Silverstone so if anyone is there you can see it....

Also, toying with getting the Quaife front Diff...
 
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you don't need to replace the whole exhaust system if you don't want to, just the downpipes and the Y-pipes.
Fundamentally disagree on this. On my CBA I ran with the first 102mm exhaust in the UK and boost response was incredible. I was getting 600lb/ft by 2800rrpm, no 76mm or 90mm exhaust will give that.
That's why everyone offers 102mm exhausts now.
 

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Fundamentally disagree on this. On my CBA I ran with the first 102mm exhaust in the UK and boost response was incredible. I was getting 600lb/ft by 2800rrpm, no 76mm or 90mm exhaust will give that.
That's why everyone offers 102mm exhausts now.
I would say that would be down to the mapping. Not a chance that a decatted 76 or 90mm exhaust is a restriction at 2800rpm on a 3.8 VR38 unless you're making 3.5 bar of boost at the same time. A well designed 90mm exhaust will support 800hp of exhaust flow before changing to a 102 will show any real difference. Note on the well designed part of that, a lot of the more commonly available gtr systems leave a little to be desired.
 

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Carbon Ceramic brakes
Ceramic's are a great upgrade - I want a set now :bawling:

Agree with L6DJX. I have the Litchfield Suspension kit and handling kit and have to say the handling is more aggressive, pointy and the whole car is a lot more planted. Feels like a different car.
 

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Ive been reading a few random build/mod threads now and one thing that amuses me is the write-up pre and post modification, the format is always the same. Rubbish - Modify - Awesome. This is the same on remodified components also, which makes me wonder how much the placebo effect contributes to the post mod assessment and self justification of money spent. Sometimes the previous mod is completely dismantled (within a short period) for something more awesome-r and the previous short comings are revealed, this is particularly apparent in handling mods, especially the Litchfield one.

Don't get me wrong, I change stuff on my cars, but I try to look at it through a clear lens.
 

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Ive been reading a few random build/mod threads now and one thing that amuses me is the write-up pre and post modification, the format is always the same. Rubbish - Modify - Awesome. This is the same on remodified components also, which makes me wonder how much the placebo effect contributes to the post mod assessment and self justification of money spent. Sometimes the previous mod is completely dismantled (within a short period) for something more awesome-r and the previous short comings are revealed, this is particularly apparent in handling mods, especially the Litchfield one.

Don't get me wrong, I change stuff on my cars, but I try to look at it through a clear lens.
And by your same rationale you're not in a position to comment on the effects if you've never driven a car with said mods.


I've owned my car from new since May 2009, almost 80k, driven every day and a fair few track days thrown in.

Every mod I've done has been a stepped approach so I can be objective in assessing the effect on the car.

From a handling perspective these upgrades are in date order (earliest first)..

Litcho suspension - removed the wallowing and instability at 60+mph. Instantly noticeable on motorways with repetitive undulations on which my CBA would become unstable as it struggled with the frequency of compression and rise. Removed a substantial amount of understeer on the road whilst radically improving the comfort ride in any setting. Dramatic change to ride quality and stability.

Front Eibach ARB - added because my OEM one had seen better days and this uprated one was cheaper than replacing it with OEM. Made a nice stiffening improvement to the front end with more front end control under turn in and steering input.

Quaife front diff - instantly noticeable that there's no front wheel scrabbling around at low speed. At higher road speeds the front end traction is solid. Previously driving on the same patch of twisty local roads front wheel traction would be intermittent during more aggressive turn in. I could feel the front wheels struggling through the steering wheel. The diff has removed all irregular feedback caused by inadequate front wheel traction. Again an effect instantly noticeable especially given mine was fitted after an engine build and power upped to 850 or so horses. The OEM diff would have made those traction issues more of an issue than before once the power was upped.

Litcho handling - Instantly noticeable the moment you make a turn at any speed.
Heavier weighting.
Much stronger return to centre.
Less understeer
More direct steering with faster change of direction response.
None of the above are placebo. You feel every single one immediately and quite dramatically. Very kart like sharp turn in and "darty" response to steering inputs. Dramatic change to steering response and feel. Heavy return to centre.

I'm a born sceptic and believe me I dont jump on any bandwagon or behave subjectively when it's my money being spent.
Personally I'm very comfortable with my objectivity with my car. I've got more experience in it than any other I've every owned or driven and even subtle changes in its behaviour I spot instantly.

The handling changes are very noticeable. Each one was performed over time and each time there was a straong objective change in how the car feels and drives.

I'd recommend driving one with these mods and you too will see how the character of the car changes.
My car in its original CBA guise was hard, unforgiving, prone to understeer at even low speeds, wallowy on our uneven roads, and tramlined badly over decrepit UK tarmac.
Now with 850bhp it grips and goes like stink and no road surface worries me. It also rides through the twisties like nothing I know and beats my original CBA in every aspect of ride and handling.
 
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