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do a search on here mate there has been loads of threads on a similar topic, one very recently.

it depends on what power the car is running, low power cars should be fine upto about 500bhp. above that, most would recommend a better pump., the N1 pumps did seem to have a bad batch a few years back, but i think the problems were identified and sorted now.

kev
 

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Rod Bell at RB Motorsport put one on mine during a recent rebuild so I can't believe for a minute there is a problem with them
 

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You will probably be alright...but there is a shitload of reported cases with n1's failing, but there are alot of high powered cars running around with them for quite sometime with no dramas also. The problem is you cant really tell and its quite random....which is disturbing, but what more would you expect for a cheap replacement pump?

For a mild powered road car its probably perfect....for high power or racing situations, nobody should risk it, especially after reading/hearing about the amount of cases out there where they have destroyed motors.
 

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I have used the N1 on lots of motors with good results, it is well know that they don't like very high rpm, which would be consistent with racing engines...
The only problem I've had with one was a worn backplate, which was traced to a knackered standard harmonic balancer (crank pulley) causing oscillations in the nose of the crank.
There were some fake ones floating about on Ebay a while back, I think these did alot to tarnish the reputation of the pump...

I still rate the Tomei pump as the best, depends whether you can justify the price for what the car is being used for... If the Rpm is being kept below 8.5K and the power output below 700 then an N1 will be fine, I would recommend a crank damper though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thx for the advice Autosaurus...btw Peter de Beus is extremely happy with the car you build for him (the R32)
 

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hi just realy to say that ld agree with autosaurus on this l ran N1 on my last engine, running up to 8500rpm and an ATI crank pulley damper. no problems.
but you do need to make sure that your getting a genuine part.
lm fitting a tomei for.... 'piece of mind'.... to my next build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
would have gone for a top brand oil pump. But do to many setbacks in the rebuild i'm running short on cash.

Allready orderen one at rhdjapan.

At next stage i'll upgrade for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
dont use an n1 - ive heard way too many disaster stories in aust
Funny that you say that. I've read the topic also. And from what i've seen is that the few proved cases are all from Australia. Maybe someone copied the N1 and sold them there. Havent heard anyone here that they had faillures. Also contacted some ppl that have N1's here in Holland, all without problems.
 

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As Jason from Autosaurus said, the Tomei pump is the best you can get there´s no doubt. But then again you normally buy your parts according to the spec and use of your car. A Tomei pump on a mildly tuned car that does not see lots of abuse and where rpms are kept kinda low there simply is no need to put a Tomei pump on. Won´t do any harm either just not needed. So if you can afford the Tomei pump and the other mods that you should normally fit when putting highflow Tomei on (like direct drain back to sump etc) then go for it. But theres nothing wrong at all with the N1 pump. Most stories about them failing are due to people overreving their engines for what this pump was constructed for. A lot of reported pump failures are also due to people buying cheap N1 style pumps on ebay and such. There lots of them flying around. If you buy something like that and experience problems you really can´t complain.
 

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I've stumbled apon a big topic on skylineaustralia about the N1 oil pump.
Seems that a couple of ppl have had serious problems with it.
Any of you had similar issues?

pls read topic below:

N1 Oil Pump - Epic Fail - Skylines Australia

The N1 pump is just a blueprinted standard version, 600 crank horsepower is the absolute limit on both or 500bhp if you intend revving the tats out of it. they simply cannot move a high enough volume of oil to prevent the bearings touching the crank surfaces.:(


Unfortunately there are too many out there that ignore this fact and then blame the part for failing as they don't want to pay £1300 for a tomei or trust item from RB motorsport or RK tuning:(
 

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Dont think it could be maybe that there are more RB's in oz/nz then all of europe? It is a numbers game. Naturally there would be more cases here.

I dont think its the oil pump not being able to move enough oil thats the problem....fairly certain the last time I used an N1 pump the oil pressure was off the clock...

Its always been to do with the gears not being able to handle any abuse....the gears are piss weak and crack easily.
 

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2 issues with thism crap pump:
1. actual material used for the main gear is weak & brittle
2. surface area of the gear on the crank snout is less 50% (need a crank collar with any aftermarket pump really though)
 

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Marko R1

Not my findings the R32 RB26DETT is really the only short nose crank in the Rb26 range , (that requires a collar) I have used many N1 pumps with high quantity oil supply with no problems. The layout of the RB engine design and what is required from it only suggest that large internal improvements are required to keep them alive ... and one of the biggest is oil supply second really imop is balancing and what we find on each end of the crank I.E balancers and big triple plate clutches these all add massive pressures on cranks but do not effect oil supply. So if N1 failure occurs look to find the story of the failure oil supply in most cases will be top of the list, Not Pump Failure. Chain of events oil all in the head area no oil at pick up means no oil at pump metal to metal pump fails don't even think about the bearings at this time they are already mashed.
 

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Not my findings the R32 RB26DETT is really the only short nose crank in the Rb26 range , (that requires a collar) I have used many N1 pumps with high quantity oil supply with no problems. The layout of the RB engine design and what is required from it only suggest that large internal improvements are required to keep them alive ... and one of the biggest is oil supply second really imop is balancing and what we find on each end of the crank I.E balancers and big triple plate clutches these all add massive pressures on cranks but do not effect oil supply. So if N1 failure occurs look to find the story of the failure oil supply in most cases will be top of the list, Not Pump Failure. Chain of events oil all in the head area no oil at pick up means no oil at pump metal to metal pump fails don't even think about the bearings at this time they are already mashed.
1. true - r32 needs the collar
2. n1 pump will push high volume of oil, no probs (my engine on cold start would run over 6bar pressure, when warm runs 4bar on idle)
3. i agree, oil supply & balancing is key to keeping a high hp rb alive

i know of an rb setup running a conventional single plate clutch, ross balancer & a rips sump kit wih restrictors in the head so oil supply & balance is immediately eliminated...the n1 pump failed after only a few mths
 

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At the end of the day, it's all about the Driver.....

How often does someone hear about an OEM Pump breaking ? NOT very often I would say.

Most inexperienced builders/drivers throw on an N1 Oil pump onto their shiny new motors and think that they are now bullet proof.....and proceed to beat the sh!t out of the cars at the track and on the street, yet behaved themselves quite nicely when they were 'limited' by using an OEM Oil pump.

As there are not many BIG POWER Skylines in Canada thus far (as the cars have only been legal for a few years now), the quickest one at the end of 2009 turned out to be a 9 sec 2.8 Stroker Motor build, running Garrett GT2860R (-dash 5) turbos and an N1 Oil Pump. Scarry ? for me, yes, because I am brainwashed by the 'Interweb' and all of the 'Desktop Tuners' out there.

This motor DID however have a due amount of attention paid to PROPER pre-assembly BALANCING as well as the application of an ATI 1000 HP (7") Harmonic Balancer.

The driver has admitted to driving it HARD and Launching the car wthout a worry.....and it has made MANY 1/4 mile passes so far under the 10 sec mark.

Lucky ? partially, I would say.......but when the 'budget' didn't leave much for an Oil pump at the end of the day, the $250 USD 'sintered metal gear' pump still seems to be more or less, doing the job of a $1,250 'billet/strengthened gear' Oil Pump thanks to some additional planning and proper building....and realism.

N1 Pumps are not the problem. Drivers/Builders are.....
 
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