[GTRVSPEC2]

Hello fellows

Need some advice on what to do on the following 2 options

1. Buy new set of heavy duty Con Rods (Carrillo - Costly)

2. Stay with stock con rods but with ARP Rods bolts installed (Cheap)

I got all the parts except the Con Rods but in the long term wise do I need to

change them or stay with the stock onse?

Cheers,

Ahmed

 

[bigkev]

Hello fellows

Need some advice on what to do on the following 2 options

1. Buy new set of heavy duty Con Rods (Carrillo - Costly)

2. Stay with stock con rods but with ARP Rods bolts installed (Cheap)

I got all the parts except the Con Rods but in the long term wise do I need to

change them or stay with the stock onse?

Cheers,

Ahmed

what are your plans for the car, power wise? if it is to remain standard or near standard then stock rods with arp bolts should be fine.
how much money do you have burning a hole in your pocket?

kev

 

[GT-R Glenn]

Everything you say it true, but the cost of ibeam rods are such that (Im a fan of stock rods) a brand new set of spool or eagles isnt that much more than shot peining stock rods + a set of arb bolts...
i would go with aftermarket rods now, just because they are new and no where near as dear as ten yrs ago.

 

[JD74]

You should update your LOCATION in your profile, because that unfortunately plays a crucial role in what's realistically available and the price you will end up paying.

The only way I would buy stuff like Eagle or Spool, was if I was in NZ or AUS, because everything there is so damn expensive.

If you are in North America and still can't justify spending the big bucks on Carrillos, look into Manley Pro Series Turbo-Tuff I-Beams. If these Rods are good enough for AMS and Buschur Racing to throw 9500RPM & 250+WHP/Rod at without a second thought, they are good enough for my RB build. Also, they are NOT forged in China, then re-finished in the US. Like Carrillo, they are done start to finish in North America, hence the price ($1000 USD/Set for 6cyl).

I purchased these rods for my build and for added peace of mind, upgraded to ARP 3.5 Fasteners, which are pretty much the strongest you can get, without a NASA ID badge...lol

Just try to keep the Chinese Crap out of your motor (if you can) and you will thank yourself for it in the long run.

 

[RSVFOUR]

Hello fellows

Need some advice on what to do on the following 2 options

1. Buy new set of heavy duty Con Rods (Carrillo - Costly)

2. Stay with stock con rods but with ARP Rods bolts installed (Cheap)

I got all the parts except the Con Rods but in the long term wise do I need to

change them or stay with the stock onse?

Cheers,

Ahmed

Impossible to answer properly without your proposed engine spec.

As said before if its stock or stage 1 std should be fine .....................but a lot of people with that power level end up wanting more later so take that into account while the engine is apart as doing it twice is not sensible.

 

[GTRVSPEC2]

what are your plans for the car, power wise? if it is to remain standard or near standard then stock rods with arp bolts should be fine.
how much money do you have burning a hole in your pocket?

kev

I am seeking power of course. well regarding the $$ I already burned alot on the car about $6000. so I need to be carefull while doing the rest because I dont want to spend more money on crapy parts as JD74 said

 

[GTRVSPEC2]

Everything you say it true, but the cost of ibeam rods are such that (Im a fan of stock rods) a brand new set of spool or eagles isnt that much more than shot peining stock rods + a set of arb bolts...
i would go with aftermarket rods now, just because they are new and no where near as dear as ten yrs ago.

I'll take all what you said under consideration. it is really makes sense

thanks pall

 

[GTRVSPEC2]

You should update your LOCATION in your profile, because that unfortunately plays a crucial role in what's realistically available and the price you will end up paying.

The only way I would buy stuff like Eagle or Spool, was if I was in NZ or AUS, because everything there is so damn expensive.

If you are in North America and still can't justify spending the big bucks on Carrillos, look into Manley Pro Series Turbo-Tuff I-Beams. If these Rods are good enough for AMS and Buschur Racing to throw 9500RPM & 250+WHP/Rod at without a second thought, they are good enough for my RB build. Also, they are NOT forged in China, then re-finished in the US. Like Carrillo, they are done start to finish in North America, hence the price ($1000 USD/Set for 6cyl).

I purchased these rods for my build and for added peace of mind, upgraded to ARP 3.5 Fasteners, which are pretty much the strongest you can get, without a NASA ID badge...lol

Just try to keep the Chinese Crap out of your motor (if you can) and you will thank yourself for it in the long run.

Thanks fot your valuable info. BTW I am from Dubai one of Middle East countries. Prices for parts are dammmn costly in here for e.g carillos costs around 5800 Dirhams and thats around 1650 US dollars (Sh****t). And eagls are cheap around 500 US dollars.

 

[GTRVSPEC2]

Impossible to answer properly without your proposed engine spec.

As said before if its stock or stage 1 std should be fine .....................but a lot of people with that power level end up wanting more later so take that into account while the engine is apart as doing it twice is not sensible.

Engine Specs : R34 RB26dett Motor
----------------------------------

BC Valves
Stock Cams
660 Injectors
JE 86.5 Pistons
Con Rods - stock so far - not yet decided what to put
Trust Radiator
Trust Intercooler

this is all what I remember

thanks buddy

 

[GTRVSPEC2]

but regarding the ARP bolts, do they fit on stock rods without doing any machinig,

and let's say I bought new set of Rods, carillos, Tomies, Whaterver, do i need to get ARP blots for them as well ??

 

[JD74]

If you buy aftermarket Rods, most come fitted with ARP2000 fasteners already.....or better.

For OEM RB26 Rods, you can purchase ARP VG30 Rod Bolts that are Chromoly 8740 Grade (just under ARP2000). The ARP Part# 202-6004
They do not require any modifications, they are 100% bolt-on replacements.

I also like OEM Rods and once they are prepped properly (magnaflux, xray, shotpeen, balance etc) use the ARP # 202-6004 Rod Bolts and you will have a good 600WHP/8500RPM Bottom end.

 

[JD74]

Oh, VERY important - Buy a balancer. The 1,000HP ATI Balancer (7").

 

[GTRVSPEC2]

Oh, VERY important - Buy a balancer. The 1,000HP ATI Balancer (7").

Do you think I need it for a 600 HP, Stock wont be more than enough ?? because ATI Dapmer in our area is dammmn expnensive !!

 

[JD74]

No. Stock balancer is garbage. An ATI 7" (1,000HP Model) is a good investment.

The money you will save on the Rods by re-using the OEM's with ARP bolts can be spent on an ATI Balancer.

 

[GT-R Glenn]

Do you think I need it for a 600 HP, Stock wont be more than enough

No / Yes

Theres lots of threads already on this subject
The stock rods will support 700hp
/ search / advanced search / conrod / R32

or

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/96654-conrods-best.html

 

[JD74]

GTRVSPEC2 - it's completely up to you, at the end of the day.

You can do it the 'Right Way' or the 'Cheap Way'.

There is alot of garbage 'advice' to sort through unfortunately, but I will tell you one thing for sure; Anything that you can add to enhance the rotating assembly is a good investment.

YES, an aftermarket Balancer is MONEY WELL SPENT, as is paying close attention to the overall balancing of your bottem end during the build.

Anyone that says an aftermarket balancer is not a good investment for a 600 HP car, is most likely the same person that says a rear drain in your cylinder head is a MUST, when frankly, it's a joke, a bandaid.....and an excuse to avoid PROPER Oil Passage MODs during the cylinder head build before assembly.

Spend your money wisely and put it good use where it's needed the most. OVERBUILDING the bottom end on an RB Motor is NEVER a bad thing.

Good luck.

 

[GTRVSPEC2]

No. Stock balancer is garbage. An ATI 7" (1,000HP Model) is a good investment.

The money you will save on the Rods by re-using the OEM's with ARP bolts can be spent on an ATI Balancer.

That's a good idea man , thanks

 

[GTRVSPEC2]

GTRVSPEC2 - it's completely up to you, at the end of the day.

You can do it the 'Right Way' or the 'Cheap Way'.

There is alot of garbage 'advice' to sort through unfortunately, but I will tell you one thing for sure; Anything that you can add to enhance the rotating assembly is a good investment.

YES, an aftermarket Balancer is MONEY WELL SPENT, as is paying close attention to the overall balancing of your bottem end during the build.

Anyone that says an aftermarket balancer is not a good investment for a 600 HP car, is most likely the same person that says a rear drain in your cylinder head is a MUST, when frankly, it's a joke, a bandaid.....and an excuse to avoid PROPER Oil Passage MODs during the cylinder head build before assembly.

Spend your money wisely and put it good use where it's needed the most. OVERBUILDING the bottom end on an RB Motor is NEVER a bad thing.

Good luck.

thank you bro, I really got a lot of info before doing anything stupid that will cause more money

 

[bigkev]

Thanks fot your valuable info. BTW I am from Dubai one of Middle East countries. Prices for parts are dammmn costly in here for e.g carillos costs around 5800 Dirhams and thats around 1650 US dollars (Sh****t). And eagls are cheap around 500 US dollars.

i think eagle rods will be fine, as far as i know they come with arp rod bolts but i stand corrected if im wrong. if your aiming for 600hp then i would be more than happy with them. well, i have them in mine at the moment.

kev

 

[widebody350]

What is your input on the Tomei H-beam conrods? They are about a $1,000 cheaper than the HKS conrods and so far it looks like I will be doing a mostly Tomei build so I would prefer them. Are the HKS's more expensive due to the brand or are they a better product(more durable/lighter)?

I definitely agree that opening the motor and getting it all done the first time is the way to go and cheaper in the long run.