[phat_gadgy]

The oil pressure gauge has dropped to 0 with the red light on. There is plenty of oil in the engine and prior to it dropping like a stone, literaly! the oil pressure was good. Oil temp and water temp are ok, no leaks , no strange noises, So im guessing no mechanical failure. Searching showed up that the senders are prone to failure however with me just getting the car Im looking for some reasureance that Ive not bust it big time.
I did bounce it off the limiter briefly but cannot see a connection.
What do you guys think, a sender failure? broken wire\loose connection, Any trouble shooting\advice greatfully rec'd. TIA Kevin

 

[Chou]

If your car is still running the same then prob the sender. When you switch the car off and then on again does it stay at 0 or does it go up?

 

[Demon Dave]

good bet the sender is at fault, it is quite a common problem on the RB engines.

 

[The Great One]

get the oil presure checked with proper oil presure gauge dont drive till its checked

 

[kismetcapitan]

I recently ordered a brand spanking new Z32 oil sender. The new part should correct my erratic oil pressure readings. I just hope I was right when I figured the Z32 and the R32 oil senders are the same thing....

 

[Big Sev]

Go to a garage and get them to check it with a mechanical sensor

Dodgy senders are a common fault,

Check your oil temps, if the needle has started to move after 10-15 mins of normal driving then you know the oil pump is ok

Sev

 

[R.I.P.S NZ]

Check your oil temps, if the needle has started to move after 10-15 mins of normal driving then you know the oil pump is ok

Sev

and if the oil pump is not ok, you will have a dead engine by then rather than a possibly repairable one.

don't run it till you have a mechanical guage on it to check it.

 

[ExScoobyT]

Are the pressure sender and the warning light not seperate systems? There are certainly two sensors - the pressure sender and the switch. If the pressure gauge AND the warning light come on, does this not suggest a real issue?

 

[Cornhoolio]

Are the pressure sender and the warning light not seperate systems? There are certainly two sensors - the pressure sender and the switch. If the pressure gauge AND the warning light come on, does this not suggest a real issue?

Thats what I thought, the oil pressure sender is purely the signal to the gauge and the light is another sender all together.................................................................. I would get a gauge onto it ASAP. Do not run it until this is checked, or like the other guys say, you will fcuk your bottom end

Cheers
Ian

 

[Chou]

Don not run it until this is checked, or like the other guys say, you will fcuk your bottom end

:chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:

sorry....couldn't resist

back to work

 

[phat_gadgy]

:chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:

sorry....couldn't resist

back to work

PMSL
And thanks for the input guys, guess I need to find some one with a oil pressure gauge

 

[R.I.P.S NZ]

Is the red oil warning light going out as soon as you start the engine? does it come on at idle?

 

[Amaru]

The gauge and the light are completely independant. You can run with 0 oil pressure on the gauge, but if the light comes on it means there is a mechanical problem and you have a genuine oil pressure issue.

What model GTR is it? If its an R32 my bet will be on the nose of the crank has worn on the edges and its slipping in the pump. Its a known problem with the R32's as the crank drive doesnt engage fully into the oil pump (god knows why Nissan did this, but its corrected on late 1994 R32's and on all 33's and 34's. JUN sell a crank collar to solve this issue but its an engine out job). The other common problem is the screws on the back of the pump coming loose.

I would personally be pulling the motor out and inspecting it, as if it is a big issue as mentioned above, there is a real chance that even starting it to idle to check the oil pressure could cause bottom end damage.

I did bounce it off the limiter briefly but cannot see a connection.

I failed to read this bit too. There is a big connection between bouncing off the limit and breaking pumps. The internal gearing on the pumps is not particularly strong and the rev limit acts effectively like a jackhammer on the internal gears breaking them very easily. On an old pump one brief visit to the limit has been known to be enough to break them. It also compounds the above problem regarding the crank drive fitting into the pump as the crank vibrates inside the oil pump drive, wearing on the edges of the flat surface that turns the oil pump even more.

 

[drewby]

Dont

Drive it, same went with mine 2 year back, set off a bit kwik 1 day, light came on, & gauge went to 0. so i turned it off stright away, i towed it to work, took the pump off, gears smashed inside,, new pump. oil & filter, spot on now, bugger to fit thow, cheers. D

 

[phat_gadgy]

R.I.P.S NZ - red light stays on oil pressure stays 0
Amaru its a 93 R32 GTR
drewby , cheers sounds like I aint starting her or driving her till I get this sorted
Need to find some one with a low lowder to take her to RB Motorsport.

 

[iaingtr]

hope i am wrong.....

but thats what happend to mine, i had spun a bearing

 

[Amaru]

Amaru its a 93 R32 GTR
.

I am betting it is the drive on the crank nose going into the oil pump has rounded off.

As said common problem and its a bastard to fix as its an engine out, crank out job.

 

[phat_gadgy]

I am betting it is the drive on the crank nose going into the oil pump has rounded off.

As said common problem and its a bastard to fix as its an engine out, crank out job.

She was booked into RB Motorsports in Oct anyway thats another job to add to the list

 

[grshuttleworth]

No Oil Pressure and N1 Pump

Hi All

Being a relitively new owner of an R32 GTR V-Spec II, I have just experienced the horror of the oil pump dying on me at reletively high RPM. Now looking at all the posts on the Forum I see I am not alone in this matter. I knew it was the Oil pump the second it happened to me as I had witnessed this on my mates GTR. I luckily caught it as it happened and have since stripped and found absolutely no damage to the bottom end thankfully. What has scared the Crap out of me is the posts regarding the N1 oil pump. Surely it cant be all that bad? I have ordered one and I should have it soon from Japan. From all the writeups I noted that for a near standard RB26DETT motor this is the better of all options, basically because it does not require a sump extension as it does not drain the sump dry in a few seconds like the HKS and Tomei units. I am still unconvinced that I have bought the right replacement as I have checked the the crank and although it is not rounded off it did sustain a small amount of wear when the std pump gave up. So my question is; how do you resolve the issue of the worn or slightly damaged crank if you cannot fit a collar please??

Many thanks
Gordon

 

[phat_gadgy]

I thought Id give a little update, I swapped out the old sender with the one RB sent me , ran her for about 8-10 seconds and the problem is still there There is no nasty noises or anything but still looks like a major piece of work to be done when RB get there hands on her. Next time I post about the car she should be back better than ever