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Discussion Starter #6
I'm kind of restoring a karmann beetle, porsche running gear and scooby box and motor, I bare metaled it 18 months ago and moved not long after so after building a new garage and covering it with a tarp I got done surface rust back....

So.... Can I paint over this with one of these rust converters? I was told wurth do a red oxide type primer that's good.... Or do I need to flat it all back and just grey primer?

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No, you'll need to completely take it back to bare metal again and apply an etch primer I'm afraid.
 

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Rust converters don't really do anything other than to slow the process down.
It might be ok for a trailer chassis, or a garden gate, but not for a car body.
 

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To do it properly I would get it sand blasted or even better dipped. There was a company I looked at that could then galvanize the shell as well, cant remember then name though.
 

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To do it properly I would get it sand blasted or even better dipped. There was a company I looked at that could then galvanize the shell as well, cant remember then name though.

Well it all depends on the extent of the surface rust, and also the extent to which it was bare metalled in the first place. Far too many variables.

If it was just the outer panels which were bare metalled, and they have lightly corroded, then it would be easy enough to buzz them back and apply a metal conditioner then etch prime. But remember, steel will start to corrode immediately, even if you can't see it. So all this needs to be done in succession to avoid the rust reforming.

If it were previously dipped or blasted, and the rust has come back all in the cavities etc then there is not much other choice than to have it re dipped/blasted.

Dipping and blasting both have their place, but unless it is needed and you have a plan for when you get it back, then it can make matters worse.

Dipping will create areas where rusts will form where it may never have been before. unless you are 100% sure you have coated it with primer/cavity wax. Also I've seen cars come back where the acid has not fully drained from seems and cavities etc causing more problems.
Of course the ideal situation would be to have it dipped, returned for any repair work, re dipped and then e-coated.

Blasting is good if it's just outer corrosion that is a problem. But again, creates problems. Although not a massive problem, you'll just be left with piles of grit on the workshop floor every time you work on it as it vibrates out of the drain holes. And even when you're sure it's all out, you can be sure it will find some whilst painting and spoil the finish somewhere!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
it was originally sanded to bare metal so the surface rust is just that on the surface, I had a previous one blasted and f**k me I would never do a body again, grit etc for ages!! I also tried that new fangled aqua blasting that apparently has an additive in the water...like ****!!! rusted in 2 days!! dipping for this shell is well over the top as its only has 1 hole 20mm in the inner wheel arch. and for £3k its just too much, looks like sanding discs and etch primer it is, any good brands out there.
 

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Easy job then!!
It's hard to give advice without seeing the job.
Any decent brand from a known paint supplier will do the trick. Use an epoxy if you really want. They are much harder and non pourus like other primers. Ideal if you intend to let it stand around a while before the final Finnish is applied.
 

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Any painters on here who's brain I can pick??
You can use a solution of Phosphoric acid. Paint on with a brush and leave to dry overnight.

Following day just rub the rust off like dust with a soft cloth.

Works a treat and next to no effort. Bright shiny metal left and ready to prime.

I have seen this done and it really works.

Satan.
 
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