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736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hey guys, ive been giving it a lot of thought for when i want to rebuild my RB26DETT R32 motor.

ive decided i will only build the bottom end, everything else can be done while leaving the endinge in the car, including swapping in a built head w/ cams, adding injectors, AFM's turbos manifolds etc etc...

so i want to focus on my ideas for building a solid bottom end thats reliable for daliy driving @ 500 whp.

heres my parts list - critisize and offer imporvements/suggestions.. please!

- re-use my block (still good, never had engine failure)
- get block bored (after buying pistons) to 86.5mm
- de-stress insides of block and risers
- new OEM r34 crank
- ACL main and rod bearings
- 86.5mm Wiseco forged pistons
- re-use OEM rods OR is it worth buyding new rods? how does everyone feel about eagle? (how do you check if they`re still good?)
- N1 oil pump (no restrictor needed here right?)
- add in a trust oil filter relocation + oil cooler kit + accusump set up for pre-oiling and oil starvation protection (here is the key ingredient, what do you guys think of that ?)
- full oem gasket set
- tomei metal head gasket
- ARP head studs
- ARP con-rod bolts
- silicone heater hose set
- new clutch at the same time
- ATI damper pulley

i believe im forgetting one set of bolts for the crank? what are they called?

359 Posts
can anyone comment on this?
YES, but will you listen?
Rods are fine, fit new little ends - my machine shop used T5 volvo ones with extra oil channels have them individually reamed to fit the pins!!!
You realy don't need a metal h/g total waste of money period.
Use a Tomei oil pump, get good advice on restrictors Kismetcaptain knows a lot about them.
You may as well go 87mm Wiseco's, if you blow this one you'll be starting afresh in all probability.
Missing bolts = mains, may as well use ARP studs, just for more precise tightening.

736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
lol will i listen, of course i will...!

why go straight to 87? that doesnt leave much in the block i feel... isnt the max bore like 87.5?

theres a lot of deals out there for rods + pistons kits... so i think i will do new rods as well. just for the fact that it includes new wrist pins and small ends etc.

ah yes the mains bolts are the ones that keep the crank fastened to the cradle right?

ive heard that using ARP mains is tough because they interfere with the tube in the sump.... how do people get around that? or maybe a set of new OEM's would suffice?

thanks for the advice, ill shoot kismetcaptain a pm, toby is fairly knowledgeable on these things.
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