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Discussion Starter #21
Bit the bullet and took it for a quick hoon as figured worst case scenario is same as current worst case scenario.

Let the coolant and oil get up to temp, oil at about 75, water at 85, went out for a quick hoon up/down a dual carriage way. On returning the coolant has no extra oil in it (still has a load in there mind as didnt clear it all out fully just dropped it all and obv oil still be in there). But more importantly around the modine unit, I left the water lines off and bypassed, and there was fresh oil all around the water lines, along with fresh oil on the water pipe outlet!

So think I may be one of the lucky few and once its all cooled down will get the inlet manifold off and then the modine unit off and pressure tested :)
 

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You're a lucky boy! Mine had identical symptoms and I had a cracked head, which I'm told is the most common reason on these engines. Took the head off complete with Both manifolds, had it repaired and then refitted it the same way. Some of the hoses were a bit awkward to refit!
 

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Get rid of the Modine and run an external oil to air cooler witha thermostat in the sandwich plate. If you put some truck clean detergent in plain water and use that as a coolant while idling with the rad cap off, heater on full hot, then drain and repeat a few times, then similarly with just plain water, you will get most of the oil out of the block and rad and heater matrix. Oil in the coolant will degrade the cooling capacity of the system, and may rot hoses from the inside out. Glad it was just the Modine.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Not sure i'm fully out of the water just yet, have had the Modine checked and its apparently not showing anything but to hot test it will be £50+vat, or I can refit it with a clear pipe between the two water ways and see if the clear pipe fills with oil or not.

Going to go with the latter and once I replace the trolley jack i've broken (fully hydrolocked under the car at the moment, cant let it down or pump it up) will get it all put back together to check the Modeen. If its not the Modeen will crack on with taking it all off :)

Also forgot to add that the catch tank had stuff in it which looked like pure water too which is always worrying :(

Just incase I need to; How hard was the head to get off with everything attached? Think I could comfortably (relatively) get the inlet off now, just the exhaust/turbo side of things i'm worried about now I guess. I know people say its easier to drop the engine but not really an option for a couple of months and would prefer to get it back together :)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Finally got around to refitting the Modine with a clear pipe between the normal water in/out on the modine.

After refitting it took the car for a short run out and sure enough there was oil in the clear pipe so looks like in my case i've been lucky and its just the stock oil/water cooler that needs replacing :) The coolant cap and expansion tank is still showing oil in them but would imagine will be a lot of oil in the system still from the modine cooler putting oil in the coolant system?

Anyone got any ideas what my options are from here, ie do I just replace the stock cooler with a used one (if i'm using a used one, whats the odds it'll need replacing too soon?) Alternatively should I be looking at external coolers instead of the stock one? If so what do I do in regards to the stock cooler?

Thanks in advance for any help/advice on this one :)

Cheers,
Alex
 

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If you pick up a second hand unit there is no saying it will be any better, I think if I where in this situation I would fit an aftermarket oil/air cooler and thermostat plate as mentioned earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
If you pick up a second hand unit there is no saying it will be any better, I think if I where in this situation I would fit an aftermarket oil/air cooler and thermostat plate as mentioned earlier.
Been looking at this and it looks like a tight squeeze with the oil filter, but easily got around with a remote filter setup i'd imagine...

Just wondered what would happen to the stock cooler in that scenario? Guess I could just either leave it blanked (though with it leaking oil into the water way not sure if this would leak as when fills with oil would get pressure from the crack?) or get it welded closed or something?

Thanks,
Alex
 

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First time on here for a few weeks, just noticed your post on the 12 April about removing the head c/w manifolds . It seems you don't need the info but here goes anyway.
I undid the ex manifolds where they join to the turbos, and left the turbos in situ. Took the rubber hose off the inlet manifold, undid the bracket underneath, removed the cambelt, headbolts etc. then welded a loop into two old spark plug bodies and lifted the head off with an engine crane. I undid the other hoses and wires as it came up. It is the only one i've ever done so I cant tell you how it compares to any other method. I didn't fancy lying under the car in the wet in winter, especially as the downpipe bolts were rusted solid, so did it this way. I put it back on the same way, but had to leave the exhaust manifold bolts handtight so they could line up properly with the turbos, they tightened up afterwards easily enough. Glad to see you only have to change the oil cooler!!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Just a thought, can a oil cooler thermostatic sandwich plate be fitted to the stock oil cooler location along with a blanking top plate?

IE something like the below pair in place of the stock cooler and bolt;





Or if space is a bit tight which i imagine it could be then could use a top feed sandwich plate?



Does anyone know of anyone running that sort of setup off the stock oil cooler takeoff (Or know the sizes of threads etc on the stock oil cooler fitting?)

Failing that am I best off with just finding a way of ignoring the stock cooler and then fit a sandwich plate to the oil filter fitting?

Many thanks again in advance
 
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