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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1. Anyone know how difficult it is to change the oil pump on an R32 GTS4?
2. Anyone heard a standard one fail (does it rattle increasingly over an hour or two (with careful driving) in a way that could be mistaken for cam rattle?)
3. Anyone got a manual for a GTS4? or just for the RB20DET?
4. Anyone know whether a 91 RB20 has the short crank to oil pump interface which makes them fail?

More info for the dedicated
Trying to figure out what went wrong and wondering if it might have been the oil pump.

Took the head off and, with oil in the sump; no oil comes through the block drillings when cranking the engine.
Guessing the pump doesn't need priming so that must be the cause or a completely blocked oilway or a jammed open relief valve?

Further background for the dedicated:
Owned it 6 weeks, I was seeing 2-3 bar oil pressure before it started making a rattle. Suspected cam rattle due to oil starvation trailered home and gave it to a friend to investigate.
I wasn't there when he drove it.......
Inlet cam seized stripping the timing belt, bending valves etc.
Have found corrosion round an uneven patch on the head (20 micron low spot). Overtightened head bolts round that area. Damaged crank pulley (previous owner failed to remove it) general signs of an incompetent/lazy mechanic.

More info on request and many thanks if anyone enjoys diagnosing cascade failures.
Cheers
Martin
 

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1. Big job, easier to pull the motor out.
2. Not normally any noise from the pump as such (maybe from big ends or lifters), just no/low oil pressure.
3. Do a search there's lots of info but all RBs are much the same to work on.
4. Yes they do but thats not usually the thing that makes the pump fail.

If your cranking and getting no oil through the restrictors on the top of the block and the fact your cam seized from lack of oil its pretty safe to say its the pump, blocked pickup or restriction somewhere else.

Your suspected cam rattle would have been the lifters.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks R.I.P.S though I was hoping you wouldn't say that:(
1. Was hoping I didn't have to remove the engine working in a public carpark, oh well.
3. Looking through an R33 manual it says that for an RB20DE and an RB25, you can do the job in the car (it starts by telling you to remove battery, belts etc) but for the RB26 it starts with "remove engine and transmission".
Guessing this is either because of the 4WD getting in the way or engine design.As mine's an RB20DET but has 4WD I didn't know which approach to take.
2. No pressure drop when it was last running just the rattle which sounded light like cams or possibly lifters - top end but I wasn't sure. I'm sure I couldn't have missed oil pressure as I was thinking oil starvation.
4. What kills the pumps then, revs? I'm upgrading to an N1 which probably doesn't help pump reliability but might help engine reliability. Will have a look at it when I get it apart.

Guys who skimmed the head said it could have be an overtightened cam belt causing the seized cam or oil starvation. Wasn't driving it when it died so just trying to think of everything before I put it back together again and miss something.

Thanks for your help.
 
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