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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Looking to swap out my oem battery as I think it's on it's way out.

Anyone got the part number for a optima yellow top? Is this a straight swap for UK car or do I need post adapters?

Thanks
 

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The battery is a straight swap if you get the right one (i.e correct size battery terminals). Here's the one:

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My Optima died a quick death and unlike traditional batteries it was impossible to bring it back to life when the voltage had dropped. (Yes my fault for not checking the charger but still).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My Optima died a quick death and unlike traditional batteries it was impossible to bring it back to life when the voltage had dropped. (Yes my fault for not checking the charger but still).
Interesting DocT I read that these batteries are better for bringing back from flat over convention lead acid so I'm suprised to hear of your experience. Did you use a charger with a AGM feature on it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Been doing some research and for reference these are currently selling the optima yellow top for £125 plus postage


Tanya also supply this battery enduroline EFB 55Ah and 460cca which matches the optima for cold crank and has the highest Ah I've seen for a battery that can fit in the GTR. The optima is only 38Ah and the Yuasa 5053 only has 50Ah. Looks like it should be straight fit but in theory should give longer standby time without charge so I'm tempted to give that a go.

It's an EFB battery designed for start stop applications but I can't see a detrimental affect using it in a non start stop car. Where problems arise is using non start stop batteries in start stop cars. In theory they are designed to be more resilient.

£78 plus delivery


The optima is an AGM battery so regarded as better technology but the enduroline is worth thinking about.
 

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The Optima put out WAY more than their published stats. Check out the various videos from the states where people test them. I use them because when I used to fit car hifi systems they were the go to battery. They should be able to discharge and recharge reliably and are able to deeply discharge and recover, which is why old skool car hifi with inefficient class A/B amps drawing massive current (amps) needed good deep cycle batteries.

Not to say the other batteries are not as good, I imagine the technology has moved on a bit, but don't let the rated CCA and Ah stats necessarily fool you into thinking one is better than the other. Interesting what DocT said though, usually AGM batteries can hold charge better and like I said, Optima (and Stinger) batteries have a good rep.

I think the Halfords Yuasa batteries are worth a think. I've used several over the years (the more expensive one) and they've been brilliant. Even when I used a normal (cheaper black) one it was good for occasional use (static caravan security during winter). When it died after 3 seasons and 2.5 years I just took it to Halfords and they replaced it no problem. Good value.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Optima put out WAY more than their published stats. Check out the various videos from the states where people test them. I use them because when I used to fit car hifi systems they were the go to battery. They should be able to discharge and recharge reliably and are able to deeply discharge and recover, which is why old skool car hifi with inefficient class A/B amps drawing massive current (amps) needed good deep cycle batteries.

Not to say the other batteries are not as good, I imagine the technology has moved on a bit, but don't let the rated CCA and Ah stats necessarily fool you into thinking one is better than the other. Interesting what DocT said though, usually AGM batteries can hold charge better and like I said, Optima (and Stinger) batteries have a good rep.

I think the Halfords Yuasa batteries are worth a think. I've used several over the years (the more expensive one) and they've been brilliant. Even when I used a normal (cheaper black) one it was good for occasional use (static caravan security during winter). When it died after 3 seasons and 2.5 years I just took it to Halfords and they replaced it no problem. Good value.
I've seen plenty of good reviews on the optima and seems like a tried/tested upgrade over the OE battery.

The selling point for me would be the proven ability to recover from discharge as I can't always trickle charge my car.

I wasn't thinking it'd be a better battery necessarily especially comparing 2 types of battery technology. Having looked for a while at the batteries on offer in this small odd ball size the 55Ah battery in that size isn't something to go unconsidered especially with a 4 year guarantee vs a 1 year guarantee with optima.

I've had good experiences with Yuasa in the past but deteriorated pretty quickly if not maintained but I think that is just a trait of lead acid batteries.

Will keep an eye out to see if anything else comes up in that size category but not seeing anything else with better performance on paper.
 

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I'm working with batteries for over 10 years, domestic and industrial( data centre UPS, solar power....etc) both lithium and lead. No matter what brand of battery you use if it's lead based will not recover after a prolonged period kept discharged so the only way to avoid that is Lithium batteries but those have issues with charging in belloow 0C temperatures so in my opinion the best way of dealing with this issue is to remove the battery and kept charged while the car is not in use for long time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good to know. I've seen these lithium ion sulphate batteries made in the UK by deadweight industries and they do a battery suitable for the GTR. It has an impressive specification of 60ah and 650cca but doesn't come cheap at £450 however comes with an approximate weight saving of 8 KG.

 

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Good to know. I've seen these lithium ion sulphate batteries made in the UK by deadweight industries and they do a battery suitable for the GTR. It has an impressive specification of 60ah and 650cca but doesn't come cheap at £450 however comes with an approximate weight saving of 8 KG.

The LiFePo4 is great and lasts forever - as an example a lead acid battery has about 500cycles before degradation starts to show but a Lithium Iron can do 5000-7000 cycles. Only thing they need to have low temp cut off, if not on first time bellow 0 it will get damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The LiFePo4 is great and lasts forever - as an example a lead acid battery has about 500cycles before degradation starts to show but a Lithium Iron can do 5000-7000 cycles. Only thing they need to have low temp cut off, if not on first time bellow 0 it will get damaged.
As in you have the battery disconnected below 0 degrees?

The plan going forward because I don't have power in my garage will be to fit a battery isolator when the car isn't in use and periodically trickle charge to keep it topped up.
 

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As in you have the battery disconnected below 0 degrees?

The plan going forward because I don't have power in my garage will be to fit a battery isolator when the car isn't in use and periodically trickle charge to keep it topped up.
No, only charging is disabled while bellow 0. You can safely discharge a LiFePo4 bellow 0 no problem. Charging it is what it breaks it.

So you can start the car but untill the battery temperature goes up over 0 celsius the internal BMS will not allow the alternator to charge it. It's called low temperature charge disconnect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So it's worth checking this feature with any manufacturer first as an insurance policy and potentially a battery that could last the life of the car?
 

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So it's worth checking this feature with any manufacturer first as an insurance policy and potentially a battery that could last the life of the car?
yes, I'm quite sure they have low temp disconnect . some batteries have also a heating element in them so you can use them in really cold places.
 
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