on the note of Steering Angle.... I'm looking to add that to some external datalogging. Can someone with wiring diagrams (I cant DL them just now) tell me where to find this feed (runs to HICAS ecu - now removed)
Indeed - If I was you, id spend some time adjusting the diff.
First of all, find out how it is setup now, write it all down, then order some different cone springs and pressure ring springs. (Just buy the 28 and 38kg ones, as the 18kg one will lock up harder/more aggressive and it looks like this is not really needed ).
You might even want to do as in the below picture, where a few clutch plates have been disabled for less locking.
[QUOTE="Motoiq.com]Deactivating clutch discs is one of the most common tricks to tune a diff. Just about all diffs come optimized for drifting or very powerful cars with very sticky and wide racing slicks with pretty solid lock up. For grip driving it is common to deactivate some clutches to allow for some differential action on the exit of a corner. This helps a grip car get every bit of forward traction possible. In the top picture, Billy has placed two drive and two driven clutches together. This takes four discs and effectively turns them into two. This is how we are going to run Project NSX. In the bottom picture, three drive and three driven discs have been placed together making 6 discs two. This will soften the locking action even more if needed. This trick will work on all clutch type LSDs.[/QUOTE]
I'm after a set of bonnet damper for my R34 GT-R.
I found various brands selling replacement hood lifters but I don't know what size and force would best suit my car - I have the standard bonnet.
Anyone with tein, TS, or other brand of bonnet damper can mesure the size of the extended lifter...
I have recently finished putting the car together & had it mapped on a rolling road with rather disappointing results. The mapper was unable to add any more ignition advance in order to make power as it had started to knock & pulled he the timing back again.
Standard RB26 bottom...
I have emailed AEM but no response as yet. Basically the wideband gauge is going into heat cycle as I turn it on, this is normal but what should happen is it reads AFR. The issue is, now for some reason it stays on a heat cycle, displays “LS4.9” after about a minute then goes straight back...
never had this issue before, but last two times I've driven it, keep on getting the car cutting out, has happened mostly when in traffic or low speed.
will be driving along, and you can just all of a sudden feel power loss, no amount of pressing the accelerator will do anything, just have to...
I've readed many post for Single Throttle vs Multi Itb.
But, who has done a DBW conversion on both?
What parts are needed to keep the Multi ITB For a DBW conversion?
I think that is easier on a Single throttle.