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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick question if you dont mind.

If I was to set my torque splitter to 4WD and left it on for something like a trackday, would it (in your opinion) cause a problem at all?

Cheers
 

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It would understeer like a pig
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That thread was very interesting thanks.

My torque splitter is different though and I can only either turn the split to the front off (make it RWD) or put a permanant percentage to the front.

Like they mention in the thread provided, when on a track in todays (recent) very wet conditions the car reduces torque to the front in the corners then when straightening up or even straight the torque will increase to the front.. By this time it is normally too late if you try to power out of corners (in the wet).
I'm racing on Friday and am thinking to put the splitter on with 50% power to the front constantly.

Anyone else have opinions on this.............or think I should not do this?
 

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That thread was very interesting thanks.

My torque splitter is different though and I can only either turn the split to the front off (make it RWD) or put a permanant percentage to the front.
I have a Ruzik 4x4 split controller that I can even change the percentage curves as well...

I'm racing on Friday and am thinking to put the splitter on with 50% power to the front constantly.
....As I said before, I will understeer like a pig a 50% front and rear
 

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having owned and tracked an Audi ur-quattro in the early 90s (which had a permanent 50:50 split, with lockable center and rear differentials) it was the King of Understeer. Incredible in the snow (never took it off road!) and I could see why that system worked to win rallies, but on tarmac, it was crap.

I have absolutely no idea why anyone, other than maybe drag racers, would even consider using a torque split controller, unless it served as a limiter (but still allowed the ATTESA to operate normally up to that limit point). But the same purpose could be achieved for free by pulling out a few clutch plates.

Good AWD on tarmac is intermittent and applied like dabs of paint here and there, just where it's needed. If the rear is planted, you're still getting 100% power to the ground, so why bother sending any to the front when it's not needed for stability? All you're doing is creating extra heat and clutchpack wear unnecessarily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I've been told!! lol

Great stuff, I probably wouldnt have a split controller either but it was on the car when I got it all them years ago. Quite good for warming up the rears though!!

I'll just have to take it easy as the weather is crap and keeping the rears planted as you say....is going to be the hardest thing.coming out of corners mainly...........and even on the odd long sweeping fast corners...where people come off frequently in the dry!!!:sadwavey: :D

Anyway....worse problems now.....I had sideskirts put on recently and now I cant get my jack up to the car to get my 17's on!!!!!! I'll have to just have a fun day out on my 19's.......................:eek:
 

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Anyway....worse problems now.....I had sideskirts put on recently and now I cant get my jack up to the car to get my 17's on!!!!!! I'll have to just have a fun day out on my 19's.......................:eek:
Blocks of wood. Problem solved. Drive the car up on a block of wood. Even one wheel will get it high enough. Otherwise you can jack from the rear or front if you have a normal service type jack. On the tow hook in the front if you have to. Or on the diff in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cheers, think ive got it sorted now!:thumbsup:
 

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In theory, the front & rear should rotate at the same speed (as long as no corners are involved).

I heard the pump might start having issuse.

Don't forget the R33 (and R34 I'm pretty sure) have a 'preload' of 1% or so - a pressurised transfer case, so it shouldn't be impossible.

Of course, running a static load probably would end up causing problems.
 

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I have absolutely no idea why anyone, other than maybe drag racers, would even consider using a torque split controller
Good AWD on tarmac is intermittent and applied like dabs of paint here and there, just where it's needed. If the rear is planted, you're still getting 100% power to the ground, so why bother sending any to the front when it's not needed for stability? All you're doing is creating extra heat and clutchpack wear unnecessarily.
Have you ever taken your car round a circuit kismet?
I'm guessing not or you would have seen the weakness in the Attessa System when competing against Evo's and WRX's, The Rusic controller still allows the system to work as normal, but with the adjustable curves you can get the 4x4 to come in quicker, and with the 2 preset maps you can have a switch on the steering wheel to flick between tight corners and sweepers. We have a large sweeper leading on to the straight at my home track that is a must to get a good run onto the main straight, So I have the 2nd map set to a highish 4x4 percentage to get all the power down.
There is still a need for a split controller......Just not a lot for full time 4x4:thumbsup:
 
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