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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
first off the car was ticking over fine then just stopped, took forever to get it started again but its seriously overfueling now (it does 1 mile per litre), its running on 5 cylinders and has very bad constant turbo shuffle, loads of black smoke and coughs and splutters when i rev it, the cat temperature light is flashing, i can hear air noises while accelerating and while idling it makes a whistling noisefrom the engine , disconnecting the AFM wires while idling makes no difference whatsoever and the ecu just gives a steady slow flash (no codes) any ideas anybody ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Firstly i wouldnt drive the car....Secondly remove spark plugs as it sounds one may have let go...I would also check coil packs. See how you go and let us know.

Gez
oh no.... ive just driven it 30 miles to get it home, i was going to tow it but thought as it was running (kind of) id drive it instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
when it broke down it was raining heavily and i was just sat in it with the engine running for 2 or 3 minutes then it just stalled, its never done anything like this before and seemed weird that it happened while just ticking over, the wires going into the ecu were all wet too so it looks like the rain had been getting in somehow.
 

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Maybe

you have blown off an intercooler pipe somewhere, check them all first.

That problem sounds and feels terminal but can happen quite often.

If its all fine, take it somewhere to be looked at.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
checked all intercooler pipes and they were all ok and tight, took plugs out and they were all totally covered with damp thick black sooty stuff, afm's looked a bit sooty but not too bad, will get it all put back together tomorrow and see if datascan picks anything up.
 

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could also b faulty wires coming from the loom to the ignition module/coil packs . does happen and can have these symptons. but does sound more like a boost leak though because of the stalling
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
il try swapping the coilpacks about and see if its still the same cylinder thats not firing, ive had a quick look inside the ecu and it doesnt look water damaged, il do a continuity test on all the wires too, i noticed inside the ecu the chip has a green sticker with "stg 1 7/8" what does the 7/8 mean ? (i think its an rk chip)
 

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when your engine is idling grab the part of the loom at the back of the engine and gently and slowly move it about to see if the engine note starts to change
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
put it all back together today but its still the same, it ran on all 6 cylinders for a minute or so but when i give it a little rev cylinder #4 went off, i swapped coilpacks around but #4 was still off (it has power going into the coilpack) i cant get datascan to work at all so im thinking maybe the ecu is broke, i think il need to find someone with an ecu that i can borrow for an hour and see if this fixes it, unless someone has a different idea of what could be the problem.
 

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I have a few suggestions wichs hopefully will help you furter

I think you schould search the problem in the ignition system as there seems to be no igniton in cilinder 4, the unburned fuel could cause black smoke and probably causes the coughs and sputters,

maybe a stuck injector is overfueling the cil so much that there is no spark?, your spark plug should be able to tell.

Do you have no spark on cil 4, or is the cilinder overfueld or underfueld?

as for the ignition system the power resistor/ignitor module could cause this as it drives the coil packs, on command of the ecu.

The cas send the timing information to the ecu and could also be messing up timing >> and ignition

The ecu could be broken but I would first check the basic engine sensors

if you remove the coilpacks and disconnect the harness of the ignitor module, and remove the sparkplugs. When you crank the enging you can see fuel fumes / clouds comming out the cilinder, if this don't hapen on a cilinder there is probably a problem with te injector / wiring.

you can look at the spark when cranking but be carefull with firre, and be sure that you disconnect the injector resistor blok so that absolutely no fuel is injected. Safety first. I have seen a firre started like this.
This can give you an idea what isn't function properly.

And if you have a friend with a descent running gtr you can swap cas / ignitor module / ecu, 1 at a time to know what's faulty.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thank you very much, this is the kind of information i need, il get on it after work tomorrow, i really appreciate the help.
 

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:popcorn: pull of number 3 coil pack with the wire attached and put it close to the engine were it can jump the spark , see what distance it can jump from and then do the same with number 4 and if there is a noticable distance between the two then i would still say you more than lickely have a wireing problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
il give that a go too, (lots of good new stuff to try tomorrow) im feeling happier already (hopefully il find the fault with all these new tests)
 

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The more factors are eliminated the closer you get to the actual cause, that's the best way to find out what's realy goning on, fresh thinking and patience also help :)

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i didnt have a lot of time today but it seems to start fine (on 5 cylinders) and ticks over ok but still puts loads of black smoke out and runs very badly when i try to rev it. i tried gently moving the wires to the coilpacks around but it still stayed on 5 cylinders, i removed the fuel pump fuse and removed the spark plug on cylinder 4 and cranked the engine and it had a good strong spark. i still cant get the datascan software to connect with the ecu. when i removed the spark plug it was covered in black soot. the ecu still has a constant slow flash and the cat temp warning light is still flashing all the time.
 
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