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Discussion Starter #1
it seems i have a porous block symptoms exactly as outlined by abbey a while back

mostly 96 onwards cars 33 and 34 but there was a number of GB
33,S that had there blocks changed under warranty. itis easy to see if the block is porous. normally a tricky of water around the n/s driveshaft.
The porous part of the block is externally , if you look at the
turbo side of the block in the centre where the oil feed for the
turbo,s leaves the block the water seeps from around the top
of the threaded drilling. If a cars has been producing a lot of horspower the block will have afair chance of being porous but as said previously some cars from approx 97/99 had porous blocks even as standard cars , nissan reduced the material in the blocks over the years to reduce costs. A N1 block is a thicker walled block but also has water way deleted etc.
We have repaired a few block but only on low power cars
.


just wondering if anyone else suffers from this and opinions on it appreciated
cheers simon
 

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I had this issue at the start of the year and had to replace my block for another from a 32gtr so i wouldnt have it again...

Gutted for you mate, there isnt much that can be done apart from that..

Maybe it's a good time to put in an aussie RB30 ?
 

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I had a porus block about 3-4 years ago
Just got a new block and a rebuild
 

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mine is porous........ erm thats it really, still going strong (i've jinxed it now!) :rolleyes:
 

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so basically...the ideal RB26 is an R32 block, an R34 head/intake/N1 Turbos, and an R33 crankshaft?
 

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The best block to get would be a RRR, but they're all sold now so you'd have to find one for sale from a current owner. After that N1 block then R32. I had a block that went porous about 2 years ago and now the replacement one I have has gone the same way. No prozes for guessing what the next block is ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
same here really,engine runs fine ive rebuilt it and its been mapped running 550 bhp(crank)just losing a bit of coolant from the block which i have to top up now and again
 

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Anyone tried any kind of radweld type product to help with this ? if so, Any luck ?
 

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right, I'm holding on to my R32 block then. It needs to be bored and polished, but it'll be the perfect starting point to start building the engine to replace my current build which will hopefully last at least 3-4 years...
 

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what's an RRR block, and how is it different from an N1, or an R32 block?
 

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`Block-weld` will not work as it is not a crack you are reparing.

Wynns coolant seal will work for about 2 days.

A liquid metal (epoxy) type treatment, applied on the surface around the offending area `may` give a semi permanent fix. Try JB-Weld available from model aircraft / helicopter type places. This is chemically stable upto 300C rather than 120 or so of araldyte stuff.

Or just keep topping it up!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
trouble is the area in question is not accessible unless a turbo or maybe both are taken off first,think ill just top up regularly and see how it goes
 

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`The area` in question (I assume) is around the turbo oil-feed boss? Easily accessed by removing front turbo - not too bad a job......
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yes its seeping out from around the oil feed boss,if its just the front turbo that needs taking off then i agree not to bad a job just need to be sure its worth doing and that the repair would be successful.
 

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Think i may have the same problem had to top up the car twice in 8 months the car took 2 liters today ! .

I will definitly have to check out were it's going to.

Any other places the coolant may be leeking from externally ???
 
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