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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, I've just bought my GTR MY09.

All four tyres have only a couple of thousand miles left I them, but I might have a possible alternative instead of buying 4 new tyres, but I need advise from you guys with more experience than myself......

Before the GTR, I owned a Nissan Skyline 350GT, which I bought aftermarket 20" alloys and tyres for. I removed these before I sold it, so I still have them.
The tyres on them are all virtually new, So....

Would it be possible for me to swap the wheels and tyres that are on the GTR with these wheels? Below are the wheels details....

Make: Ruff Racing R280 (black)

Size:
Rears are 20x10 ET+25. Tyres are 275/35/20
Fronts are 20x8.5 ET+20. Tyres are 245/35/20


Now I know that the sizes are slightly thinner than the stock GTR wheels/tyres, but would they work? Maybe spacers etc?

Any help/advice would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,


Daryl.
 

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Front wheels will put the speedo out by 4.78% so at 60mph you'll be doing 62.87mph. Also with that wheel / tyre combo it'll effectively lower the front of the car 16.25mm in height.

It'll push the wheel 38mm away from the strut housing and sit 12mm further out than OEM. So yes they'll go on but it'll reduce the height on the front of the car quite a bit.

Rears are pretty much spot on and might go straight on although they'll sit 6mm closer to the strut and 6mm further into the arch. There would be 1% difference on rotation and it would drop the height of the car on the back by 3.5mm. So you might well need a 10mm spacer or they might fit straight on.

However with the front wheel sitting 12mm out more than standard and the rear 6mm further in I would advise putting a 20mm spacer on the rear.

That would firstly guarantee fitment but mean then the front sits 12mm further out than OEM and the rear 14mm so at least they'll look flush.

Think it would look weird having an aggressive front wheel poking out then a rear wheel sitting right in. Hope that helps a little :?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks mate for your detailed reply!
It helps a lot, and it all makes sense....even to me lol.

Daryl.
 

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Also make sure the centre bore and PCD are the same. I suspect they probably are
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah they are the same, thanks guys.

So I'll start to look for a pair of 20mm spacers then, which are the best to go for?

Daryl.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I read that thread yesterday!.....and also one where one of the members on here had cracks in his spacers.
I don't do track days, but still, I think anyone using spacers should check them regularly along with other general checks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have been reading up about the TPMS today. I've read that there is a repair kit that should be used when fitting new wheels/tyres etc.
I've never owned a car with these on before so it's all a bit new to me :confused::confused:

So seeing as this wouldn't just be a case of simply swapping each new wheel for the current ones......would I be able to do this myself, or should it be done by a professional?

Sorry if this sounds a but dumb, I'm fairly competent at most stuff, I just never dealt with these before.

Daryl.
 

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You'll need to remove the tyres in order to fit your TPMS from the existing wheels so on that side of things you'll need a tyre fitter.

You can run the wheels without TPMS although obviously you won;t know your tyre pressures and you get a warning triangle stating can't detect sensors, then when you start car for about 45 seconds a flashing light on the dash that eventually stops flashing and just stays lit.

If you buy new TPMS for the wheels you want to fit, these are around £45 each and will need to be learn / coded to the car as the ECU can only store information for 1 set of sensors.

If you use the existing sensors from your current wheels and place the correct sensors in the correct location (ie. front right wheel sensor onto the wheel that'll go on front right, etc) then you'll flag no warning lights. The repair kits can be bought from around £10 - £12 and basically come with all the bits to change for 10 sensors not essential but recommended.

I have 2 sets of wheels (winter / summer) I run my summer ones with just a warning light for ease but it's preference. My summer wheels aren't run flats and I feel able enough to be able to detect a puncture myself and I check my pressures often anyway.
 

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You can replace them by just pressing the outer bead off. Obviously still needing the equipment to do it though

You'll need to remove the tyres in order to fit your TPMS from the existing wheels so on that side of things you'll need a tyre fitter.

You can run the wheels without TPMS although obviously you won;t know your tyre pressures and you get a warning triangle stating can't detect sensors, then when you start car for about 45 seconds a flashing light on the dash that eventually stops flashing and just stays lit.

If you buy new TPMS for the wheels you want to fit, these are around £45 each and will need to be learn / coded to the car as the ECU can only store information for 1 set of sensors.

If you use the existing sensors from your current wheels and place the correct sensors in the correct location (ie. front right wheel sensor onto the wheel that'll go on front right, etc) then you'll flag no warning lights. The repair kits can be bought from around £10 - £12 and basically come with all the bits to change for 10 sensors not essential but recommended.

I have 2 sets of wheels (winter / summer) I run my summer ones with just a warning light for ease but it's preference. My summer wheels aren't run flats and I feel able enough to be able to detect a puncture myself and I check my pressures often anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Excellent, thanks for your help and detailed replies.....massive help!!

First move I think, is to make sure the new wheels/Tyres fit, so I'll try a front and a back.
Then I need to look into the spacers if required.
Once I know the answers to these, then I need to get the repair kit, then take to a tyre fitter to do the job.

Once again, thanks for the help/advise.

Daryl
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Again,

I just double checked the sizes of the tyres on the RUFF Racing Wheels, and I was incorrect with the sizes in my first post.
They are:

REARS 275/30/20
FRONT 245/35/20

I know it's only a slight difference on the rear tyres, but would this make any difference to what you said in your first reply?

My other question is, in your opinion, would the car handle a lot different with this set up on there, would it be slightly noticeable, or would I hardly be able to notice a difference?

Just to let you know, I don't do track days, nor do I go blasting everywhere, the power gets used as and when its needed etc.


Daryl
 

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Would throw speedo out in theory by 5.13% and lower the rear 17.25mm. Other than that still same situation with it sitting 6mm further into the arch.

Can;t really comment on the handling but they must be some skinny tyres. Can't imagine it'll be that comfy to ride on but I guess you knew that anyway else wouldn't have picked them in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok got that, probably about 3mph over at 60mph then.

Yeah I know the ride from when they were on my last car......didn't feel too bad to be honest.
I just wondered if it would make a lot of difference or not to actual handling/road holding etc.

Thanks for your reply,


Daryl
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, after some precise measuring today on both front and rear wheels, I've come to this conclusion.....

Rears: would go on fine, but as EAndy said, they would sit 5 or 6mm in from OEM.

Fronts: wouldn't go on because of the brake clippers, and after measuring I reckon I would need 15mm spacers on, which would push them out 27mm from OEM

This means I would need 30mm spacers on the rears in order to bring them more or less to where the fronts would be.

Does this sound feasible, or would you simply forget it and buy 4 new tyres for the OEM wheels?

All thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Thanks,


Daryl
 

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I'd go for 4 new tyres, 30mm spacers are huge! I'm not a big fan of using spacers, especially on a big heavy car like the R35
 

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OEM offsset is 45 and yours are 20 so in theory it should of poked out more however I know certain manufacturers who take mould of wheels (replicas purely as an example) retain the lips, spoke profiles etc of a wheel so it looks like a genuine wheel if it's a replica but recess the mount point changing the center pcd.

Someone else did an example here.

Both wheels are 18x9.5 except the gold wheels are +38 offset and the green wheels +20 offset

The center pcd has been altered for a lower offset to give the wheel more poke outside the arch however on one set of the wheels its more likely they'd foul the caliper.



 
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