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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, as it says in the title im looking to spend some money on my R33 GT-R V-spec afer my xmas bonus, i have got a standard GT-R at the minute with only bodywork mods. Im going to make it into a project and hope to finish in the next coming year.

Im looking to get the spec up to about 600-800 bhp but it needs to be a sensible set-up that the car can easily run without too many problems as im looking to use it everyday, i have a few ideas on the spec but i was going to look for advice here before going to any garages just so i have a good understanding of what im looking for.

Thanks

James
 

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IMO!!! Don't waste sh1t loads of money on that much power and think it will be useable everyday....for everyday use stick to around 500bhp and get yourself proper suspension and most importantly a quality big brake conversion unless you want to end up in the trees!

Mark....
 

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I know Gary at Gtart did use his 700 bhp Gtr33 daily. I would however as stated above look at 500bhp with all the trimmings.
 

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I run a 32gtr at 600bhp, i find that in most british conditions (crap cold weather) that i can actually go faster at lower boost on the road as it wheelspins less and i have more confidence in the car on corners in case the boost comes on too hard when accelerating :runaway: :runaway:

500bhp is usable in most circumstances but 600 is only really any good when there is dry weather and enough grip on the road surfaces...

the difference in cost from what you need for a car to run 700hp reliably is massively different to a 600hp one i have found, which is why im sticking to where i am.



Basically for 550-600hp (reliably and only my opinion btw) you will need:

refreshed engine with uprated bearings all round
uprated pistons (i use JE pistons)
Uprated conrod bolts
uprated head stud bolts
uprated oil pump
induction kit
sump extension kit
260 degree cams
steel gaskets all round
uprated intercooler and hard pipe kit
uprated radiator
oil cooler
uprated ECU and boost kit (i use powerfc)
uprated AFM's (z32's etc)
Iridium sparkplugs
splitfire coilpacks
uprated turbos (i use gt2860R -5's)
fuel pressure regulator
uprated fuel pump (i use tomei 280ltr/hr)
uprated injectors (i use 720cc)
Uprated clutch - twin plate minimum
Redline heavy shockproof gearbox oil
Bigger brakes


To get from there to 700 hp you will need:

Uprated Gearbox
Triple plate clutch
uprated conrods and forged crank (possibly hks step2 bottom end etc)
fuel swirl pot with external fuel pumps and uprated fuel lines
uprated fuel rail
bigger turbos
bigger injectors
even bigger brakes




The best way is to buy most of the parts from these forums at a good price...to buy it all brand new is gonna cost you a LOT of cash and would be cheaper buying an already done car from japan and then refreshing it :eek:

Also if you are going all the way to 700-800bhp i would take a look at the RB30 Australian engines (from RIPS etc) as they are a good price ! Then you can sell your current engine to recoup some of the costs :chuckle:




Hope this helps,

Pete
 

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well, that answers my question - I was wondering if I missed anything in my current rebuild - I've got it all, well, minus the head studs, sump extension, and hard pipes.

plkettle, what's your low and high boost settings?
 

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With my power FC i have 4 settings:

1.0 bar (480bhp)
1.2 (520bhp)
1.4 (560bhp)
1.6 (600bhp)

I am currently running on BP Ulitmate over winter (as the local shell garage is now 45mins away :( )

with shell v-power it will run at 620bhp at 1.6 bar after the map is tweaked to match the fuel again (which i will do for the few dry summer months)
 

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I agree it's up to you what you consider a daily driver. If I had enough money for the petrol I'd use my R33 every day. I use it most weekends (or did until it went into hibernation). The only thing I would suggest is make sure it's not big power but high up in the rev range, that will cause more problems on daily road use than anything else.
 

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in tweaking the map for V-power, are you just advancing the timing a degree or two? or are you also modifying the fuel map?

re: daily driving - I drove my GT-R every day for a few months, and the petrol bill was absolute murder - I actually feel significantly wealthier with my car in the shop!
 

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i currently only run it on 1.2 over these months even when dry as it still wheelspins all the time at that setting.....

1.6 is undriveable tbh unless it is a warm grippy surface

Even in a straight line you have to concentrate very hard to keep the thing going and pointing forwards -
like you see on some high power drag run vids it will slide slightly left and right even when you are going straight forwards due to all 4 spinning so hard and i run 275 wide and decent tyres...



But when summer comes around and there is more grip, that extra 60-80 bhp makes all the difference :thumbsup: :D :thumbsup: :D :thumbsup: :D :thumbsup:
 

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When i change fuels or ANYTHING on the car i always have the car FULLY checked and then remapped by a professional tuner if needed, Its just not worth the risk to change anything without getting it fully checked afterwards...

I believe the fuel map is tweaked as well as the timing etc. It also helps to redo the map when the warmer weather comes around anyway to prevent DET when running such high bhp in summer


fuel costs ? :bawling: lol, it doesnt stop me from booting it all the time so i cant complain too much as its my own fault !
 

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2860-5s are going into my car, sounds good, I'm rather excited :) What RPM does your boost come in, and (very helpful for me), around where do you have your duty cycles set on the boost control menu?
 

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Back on topic.... i dont know how reliable getting all the way to 800 bhp actually is with the sorted mods ?

Maybe some of the real high power guys can post up if their cars are holding up well at that power ?
 

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I strongly suggest you speak to a tuner about your requirements for power verus budget before you start listening to hundreds of opinions obtained from forums. A tuning co will tell you exactly what parts work best together and what parts are a total waste of time.....If you do start buying "cheap" parts from Fred's shed and alike then good luck! Personally I think a reputable tuner is your best option from the advise stage through to the work being successfully carried out....:thumbsup:

Mark.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks guys, i just wanted some advice on what im looking for and i have re thought the idea of big power for everyday use. so it looks like it will be cheaper in the end which is always good :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thanks for this big lump of advice and i was looking at the RB30 as a new engine, just finding one cheap. but now to go to a tuning co and see what the advise. Could i go for T04Z's? anyone running them in a skyline at about 600BHP at the minute? thanks guys.. again.

I run a 32gtr at 600bhp, i find that in most british conditions (crap cold weather) that i can actually go faster at lower boost on the road as it wheelspins less and i have more confidence in the car on corners in case the boost comes on too hard when accelerating :runaway: :runaway:

500bhp is usable in most circumstances but 600 is only really any good when there is dry weather and enough grip on the road surfaces...

the difference in cost from what you need for a car to run 700hp reliably is massively different to a 600hp one i have found, which is why im sticking to where i am.



Basically for 550-600hp (reliably and only my opinion btw) you will need:

refreshed engine with uprated bearings all round
uprated pistons (i use JE pistons)
Uprated conrod bolts
uprated head stud bolts
uprated oil pump
induction kit
sump extension kit
260 degree cams
steel gaskets all round
uprated intercooler and hard pipe kit
uprated radiator
oil cooler
uprated ECU and boost kit (i use powerfc)
uprated AFM's (z32's etc)
Iridium sparkplugs
splitfire coilpacks
uprated turbos (i use gt2860R -5's)
fuel pressure regulator
uprated fuel pump (i use tomei 280ltr/hr)
uprated injectors (i use 720cc)
Uprated clutch - twin plate minimum
Redline heavy shockproof gearbox oil
Bigger brakes


To get from there to 700 hp you will need:

Uprated Gearbox
Triple plate clutch
uprated conrods and forged crank (possibly hks step2 bottom end etc)
fuel swirl pot with external fuel pumps and uprated fuel lines
uprated fuel rail
bigger turbos
bigger injectors
even bigger brakes




The best way is to buy most of the parts from these forums at a good price...to buy it all brand new is gonna cost you a LOT of cash and would be cheaper buying an already done car from japan and then refreshing it :eek:

Also if you are going all the way to 700-800bhp i would take a look at the RB30 Australian engines (from RIPS etc) as they are a good price ! Then you can sell your current engine to recoup some of the costs :chuckle:




Hope this helps,

Pete
 

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I suggest you contact Rob at R.I.P.S and see what he can do for you. He builds RB30s at prices you cannot believe!! His engines are described as "torque monsters" and are perfect for everyday use. http://www.ripsltd.com Believe me it's worth it!
Tell him I sent you.
Regards.........Jeff.
 

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Thanks for this big lump of advice and i was looking at the RB30 as a new engine, just finding one cheap. but now to go to a tuning co and see what the advise. Could i go for T04Z's? anyone running them in a skyline at about 600BHP at the minute? thanks guys.. again.
If, as you say, you want it for daily road use I wouldn't go for a big single, stick with a reasonable set of twins that will spool up earlier and give you a more even power band
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Man alive, they are cheap. where are they based, prices are in NZD but you live in oxfordshire...So im a bit confused.
 
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