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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so having finally completed the exterior it is now time to move on to the interior.

Managed to strip my dash today. Got the speedo out as well. My plan is to change all bulbs in speedo to led, or the ones that can be done anyway, including the warning lights. Also going to be changing the bulbs in the heater control/triple gauge whilst I'm at it.

Do I use all white bulbs in the coloured filters??

So can anyone confirm if these are the right sizes:

Speedo cluster:

Illumiation L : T10/501 (x5) - these are the ones in the 5 large brown holders
Illumnation S: T5/286 (x2) - these are the ones in the 2 small blue holders

Warning Lights
Best to avoid changing these to LED's...??
1. Because a blue/or other tinted LED can make it hard to see when a warning light comes on because of the colored cells
2. Some of the lights i.e Fuel/HICAS etc can give a false reading because of the low current required to run an LED

Turn Signals: T10/501 (x2) (these are fine to be LED)

ABS: T5/286
HICAS: T5/286
Handbrake: T5/286
battery light: T10/286

High Beam: T5/286 (okay as an LED)

oil pressure: T5/286
low fuel: T10/501 (x1) - in a large dark brown holder

4WD: T5/286
Blown up Engine: T5/286
Open Door: T5/286

Other interior

Triple Gauge: T5/286 (x3)
Heater Backlight: T3 (x6)
Main Room light: 21mm Festoon, although will be using a 48smd board for this.
Map Reading: BA9s (x2)
Lighter ring : T5/286
Glove box light: T10/501
Boot: T10/501
 

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If you are changing the bulbs behind the coloured filters (i.e. indicators, warning lights) then match the colour of the LED to the filter (i.e. red LED for warning lights, blue LED for main beam).

Don't think that you'll have any problems with changes to LEDs otherwise. You might find that they are too bright and want to put some diffuser paper behind the faces.

If you're bothered about the voltages on the LEDs you can always put a resistor into the circuit. Seems a retrograde step to me so I've bot bothered...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you are changing the bulbs behind the coloured filters (i.e. indicators, warning lights) then match the colour of the LED to the filter (i.e. red LED for warning lights, blue LED for main beam).

Don't think that you'll have any problems with changes to LEDs otherwise. You might find that they are too bright and want to put some diffuser paper behind the faces.

If you're bothered about the voltages on the LEDs you can always put a resistor into the circuit. Seems a retrograde step to me so I've bot bothered...
Thanks Cris. Did you change all the bulbs in your speedo to led? Also are the dials you got from metal monkey stainless steel? Also do you know what font used in the nismo speedo is? (its different from standard speedo)

Got some pics (found online) that show the difference:





This one looks crazy bright during the day
 

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Thanks Cris. Did you change all the bulbs in your speedo to led? Also are the dials you got from metal monkey stainless steel? Also do you know what font used in the nismo speedo is? (its different from standard speedo)

Got some pics (found online) that show the difference:





This one looks crazy bright during the day
Yes I changed the bulbs. There's a couple I've not bothered with yet - *** lighter ring and the button lights.

I'm afraid that I have no idea on the font being used. I do have metal monkey faces and yes they are stainless (painted black). If you've looked at the pics in my thread you will have probably noticed that the faces have slightly strange numbers. This is because the stainless faces work by having cut outs where the numbers are. Onviously you cannot have an enclosed space (like a 0 for example) because there is nothing to suppor the centre of the number (you'd just have a hole). If you wanted to match other gauges (say just do the speedo) then I don't think that stainless would be the way to go. It wasn't an issue for me given the changes I wanted to make.

I'm guessing your referring to the brightness of the leds in the pics. They are bright (the only thing which isn't that bright are my aircon LEDs). I have some Stack gauges (which are LED) and they are pretty much as bright as those.

I been thinkiong about this myself and I'm wondering if I can pop a dimmer in-line with the two circuits. I guess a dimmer wouldn't be too hard to get set up adn I see that you can get wireless ones cheaply which would remove the need for having extra knobs on the dash...
 

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changed the bulbs in my dash the other day to led ones from ebay, but it does not seem to cover well with some dark spots. All bulbs are on and working which I checked.



Maybe in using crappy bulbs? if so which are the brighter ones?

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm pretty sure that's down to the bulbs you are using. You want bulbs that replicate the light dispersion of a normal filament bulb.



Have a look here: warden_jp2002 Stores Auto LED bulbs

I've got my bulbs from there, just waiting for my dials to arrive which should be in a week or two before I can check how they look on the car.
 

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Seems confusing can you drop me details of part numbers that you used from the site please. There seems to be many variants.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
They look long but they fit fine without any problems. Here is what I ordered from that site:

2pcs 194 501 T10 5 Power SMD LED Wedge Bulbs, Colors: Xenon White x3
2pcs 194 501 T10 5 Power SMD LED Wedge Bulbs, Colors: Green x1
2pcs 194 501 T10 5 Power SMD LED Wedge Bulbs, Colors: Amber x1
2pcs 194 501 T10 5 Power SMD LED Wedge Bulbs, Colors: Red x1
2pcs 74 286 T5 3 SMD LED Wedge bulbs, Colors: White x3
2pcs 74 286 T5 3 SMD LED Wedge bulbs, Colors: Red x3
2pcs 74 286 T5 3 SMD LED Wedge bulbs, Colors: Blue x1
2pcs T3/T4/T5 Neo Wedge Power SMD LED bulbs (Blue/White), Colors & Type: 2pcs T3 White x3

Note, he sells the bulbs as a pair so you will have several left over.

Regarding the air cons bulbs, when I initially fitted mine, only one worked and that is because they have to be the correct polarity, so if they don't work, just take them out, turn them around and reinstall.

Here is how they looked without the front panel on:


Looks very bright, right?

Then after reassembling everything:


It's pretty damn fiddly as well to install the ac bulbs, well the ones I had anyway. Looking back at it now it probably wasn't worth it as it's slightly brighter than before. Your call.

I'll try and update the thread again when I have my speedo cluster complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you :)

Did you have to drill the clear plastic piece to get the aircon leds to fit as per Wills thread?
Nope, no drilling. They fit fine but require a minor adjustment on the led bulb as the plastic lip (on the new led bulb) catches on the board, preventing it from turning and securing on. I just took a small screwdriver and eased it out the way. You'll see what I mean.

I should've taken a before pic to compare the brightness. Do you think it's worth it?
 

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Looks a lot better than the outdated green aircon setup. Your lights are defo brighter. I will put an order for the bulbs as my dash is all apart at the mo.
 

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Thank you :)

Did you have to drill the clear plastic piece to get the aircon leds to fit as per Wills thread?
Below are two LED bulbs. The right hand bulb will not fit (except perhaps with drilling). I just bought some bulbs which would fit (left hand).

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
After nearly a month this arrives from China





It has a sticky back so easily affix-able and damn this is a lot brighter than the normal crappy bulb. The only thing I would add to this is a resistor so it fades when the door shuts but I have no idea how to do that.

I was trying to look for a board that covered the whole area but having this now, it's more than sufficient. And the plastic lens fits on top.

Cheap as chips and defo recommended to do.

48 SMD Pure White Light Panel T10 BA9S Festoon Dome 48 LED Interior Bulb Lamp | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here it is with the lens on top:


Camera doesn't really show how bright it is as usual but a definite improvement nonetheless.
 
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