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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I have a 1990 R32 GT-R which has started to develop a rattle when lightly accelerating. The rattle starts around 3000RPM and disappears around 5000RPM. Any ideas what it could be?

Also, it has low oil pressure. I know that the stock gauge is not accurate but I have swapped out the sender unit with no change to what the gauge shows. Recently the oil warning light came on and I shut the car off and haven't started it since. I know about the oil pump issues with these early RB26's, but I have had the oil drained and checked for metal shavings but came back clear. Could anyone shed some light? Thank you.
 

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i personally wouldn't start it up at the moment it doesn't sound good,get it checked out at a garage it does sound like something has failed,oil pump spun bearing,i could be wrong but check it out asap.


simon
 

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I'd get a mechanical gauge on there asap to see what the oil pressure actually is, then go from there. You could read a million different horror stories online about rattles and knocks and none of them might be the issue you're having :)
 

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Ok cool, thanks for that guys. I have a mechanical gauge in the garage which I will put on there tonight and crank it over. I'm hoping that I can just swap out the oil pump with a new one. Once I tear the sump off I will have a good look at the bottom end. The car and engine have 113,000 Km's on it, so should I swap out the bearings while I'm there?
 

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I would yeah, just to be sure.
Taking the sump of is not really an easy job with the RB26 due to the diff and axles etc. but it should be possible in a few hours if you have a lift and gearbox jack to support the diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've got a Car hoist, Engine Crane, Trans Lift and all the goodies. So, I will just pull the engine out and put a new clutch and rear main seal in while im there too. I'm going to be using a new OEM pump because I don't Drag/Track Race the car, do I have to change the Crank collar? I've read somewhere that the OEM pumps were changed from 81mm to 77mm?
 

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Not that I'm aware of its more of the housing internal diameter but if your pulling it apart check if its got a short nose crank if it has fit a collar
 

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I had the same issue. Mine had a badly worn #1 big end.
Engine repair time.
 

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I've got a Car hoist, Engine Crane, Trans Lift and all the goodies. So, I will just pull the engine out and put a new clutch and rear main seal in while im there too. I'm going to be using a new OEM pump because I don't Drag/Track Race the car, do I have to change the Crank collar? I've read somewhere that the OEM pumps were changed from 81mm to 77mm?
I believe they did change to 77mm I read that when I looked at replacement reiger gears sorry I dont know when that happened
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just bought a N1 Pump, Crank Collar & ACL Race Bearings. I don't take the car out on the track or sit on the RevLimiter, so I guess the N1 pump will suit me fine. The engine is coming out in the next few days, so I will be able to see what's wrong with it. Hopefully worst case, just a pump and spun bearings.
 

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You will likely need a polish if your lucky if not a regrind but either way it's best to get it fully balanced afterwards
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just spoke to an engine reconditioner yesterday, and he's going to put the collar on, regrind it if it needs it, and also give the whole thing a polish. I'm thinking that I might look into new Pistons / Rods and possibly doing Cams and Cam Gears while I have the engine out. And i've also just noticed that I have a oil leak somewhere near the rear Turbo. I have 2 rebuilt R33 V-Spec turbo's which I will probably put on there also.
 
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