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Discussion Starter #1
Does all the cranks on R32 GTRs have the short oildrivecollar, or is it just the earlier models?
Does anyone know for sure.
 

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From what I have read from searching up to the 93.5 have the short collar and above that and the 94 models have the longer collar. Some R33s have the shortened collar, but since nissan has corrected this. Jun also has a fix for it, do a Google search for Jun crank collar. It has to be machined onto the crank but it lengthens the crank snout so that you don't get the oil pump failer problem and ultimately engine failure.
 

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from what I understand, only V-spec R32s have the longer oil drive collar. I have a JUN collar but I couldn't find anyone I trusted enough to machine the crank, so it got left off. I just hope if/when the oil pump goes (mine's new, a month old) it does so progressively - at least ten seconds so I can stop the car!
 

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hmm so if I find a crank form a 94 GTR then i could have the longer drive collar but not for sure. :confused:

Could be a bit of a gamle then.
To bad a new one is so expensive.
Does anyone know what the cost new in Japan?
 

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lol u guys certainly know how to waste money :chuckle:

it'd be cheaper to just get a collar machined onto ur crank
 

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damn, I wish I knew that. 600 pounds for a new crank would have been well worth it when I rebuilt my engine.
 

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hi guys, still very new to this. How big/common is this crank problem on R32 GTR's ?

i mean in causing failure of the oil pump?
 

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hi guys, still very new to this. How big/common is this crank problem on R32 GTR's ?

i mean in causing failure of the oil pump?
have a look at the end of ur crank and compare it to the drive on the oil pump. the drive on the oil pump is a bit over 2 times larger than the drive on the crank and this is where the pump cracks, hence why you should run a collar :)
 

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Pretty sure theres some pcx on this site of my crank.
I have done about 25 or so crank collars.
They are made from 4140 and shrunk onto the crank and pinned.
They are not hardened as they dont need to be.
They should not be pressed on.
Only someone with too much money would solve a simple problem by buying a new crank.
I was selling collars for $150 and fitting them for $100 so for $250 (70 quid)as long as your crank was straight and true thats a much more cost efficient solution.
The collars will NEVER slip or break if fitted correctly.
 

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How is the old collar removed before fitting the new collar? is it machined of?
Is it done with a Lathe? ( best translation I could find of he machine I mean):
 

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by shrinking the JUN collar onto the crank, do you mean undermachining the crankshaft, then heating the collar to slide it on?

Does orientation of the flat part matter at all (i.e. have to exactly match the factory flat part)?

might as well take the opportunity to put my JUN collar on now. Up to now it's been an expensive desk decoration...
 

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Measure the I/D of the collar, turn the crank down to 0.025mm bigger than the inside of the collar, retaining the samedistance from the end for the sholder.

Heat the collar up until its just going red, quickly slide it on. The orientation of the flats is not important. Then drill and tap through the collar into the crank and screw the grub screws in.

Before



After
 
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