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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Having burnt out the light switch on my R32 (very common on R32s) I decided to make up a new harness that not only feeds the current via relays but also replacing the headlight harness also. Another bonus is that when pulling the main beams the low beams will remain on. Voltage drop from the battery to the bulb was some 1.4 volts on the driver side and 1.5 on the passenger side. Voltage vs Lumens is exponential so that amount of voltage loss results in less light being out to the road.

First step was looking at various ways at making up a harness - the R32 setup is rather confusing so took a while to figure it out and have a clear design that worked. There were some diagrams out there which were complex so was better to start from scratch in some ways.

Only 3 wires require cutting and joining up to existing wires at the switch side for the signal from the switch and an earth. An extra ring terminal earth is fastened to the chassis and a positive to the battery terminal. Over the next few posts I'll get some more pictures up.

Burnt out harness was cut and replaced with a fresh connector and length of wiring.





New power harness for the headlights.

 

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Yeah, saw this on your Facebook page, still interested in this! Looks like a good fix to a simple problem. I'm surprised Nissan never had any kind of TSB/Recall about this. Not sure if my car is having the issue or not, maybe it's just starting. Was fine for a year, then the last 6 months or so, turn the switch, headlights come on but no dash/radio/etc lights and no tail or license plate lights.
But, if I keep the switch on and push the fog light switch, everything works. Weird! Might be something simple, haven't looked into it yet, but either way, like the idea of this kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You have the same issue I did. It's the switch contacts that have burnt out. I tried to repair worked a few weeks and back to normal. Also check for melted plug. In the end I bought a new switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Looks good, are you going to sell them Yunis?
Just doing a few weeks testing and they will be for sale. Two versions, one will be connected up at the steering column other will be a shorter harness that will be connected to the wiring close to the fusebox/battery.
 

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Just looking for some clarification...

So will the power harness kit also include a repair for the headlight switch plug? Or do I need the power harness in addition to the switch plug?

Just curious if the kit is going to be inclusive

Edit... I read my post and realised it sounded as if English was my 3rd language
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So on the headlight itself you have a small harness that is fixed to the unit. My kit will be complete excluding that short harness, however upon request I could make it if needed.
 

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So on the headlight itself you have a small harness that is fixed to the unit. My kit will be complete excluding that short harness, however upon request I could make it if needed.
Sorry, not on the headlight, the plug that usually melts up at the switch
 

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yeah that's my concern too. i would think a new harness piece is needed (the connector with yellow wires you posted) and then the harness kit to make the power run through relays and not through the switch.
my other concern is, having both the low beams and high beams on at the same time, will that cause any issues with those running non-projector headlights? i have projector lights at the moment, but will be switching to non-projectors in the near future.
wish you were in japan, i'd love to do testing on this, as like you said, it's probably my problem.
 

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Would be keen on one of these when you make them, with the one that connects to the fuse box in the bonnet does it have any wires running back into the the car or is all in the engine bay?
 

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Nice idea this, I hate the thought of the full feed sitting through that dash switch all the time!

I'm interested in the version that sits in the bay - presumably you fit that into the existing wiring in series to divert the existing feed so it only switches the relays, then add a direct feed to the relays which then goes into the headlights?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Correct if you do not want to cut wires in the engine bay near the fuse box you can run the longer length wires through the gromet under the arch liner and direct to under the steering column and splice into the switch. Just preference really.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Would be keen on one of these when you make them, with the one that connects to the fuse box in the bonnet does it have any wires running back into the the car or is all in the engine bay?
Shorter harness kit doesn't need to run into the cabin.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yeah that's my concern too. i would think a new harness piece is needed (the connector with yellow wires you posted) and then the harness kit to make the power run through relays and not through the switch.
my other concern is, having both the low beams and high beams on at the same time, will that cause any issues with those running non-projector headlights? i have projector lights at the moment, but will be switching to non-projectors in the near future.
wish you were in japan, i'd love to do testing on this, as like you said, it's probably my problem.

Both low and high beams running will not cause issues with this mod as power goes to the relay not the switch.
 

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Correct if you do not want to cut wires in the engine bay near the fuse box you can run the longer length wires through the gromet under the arch liner and direct to under the steering column and splice into the switch. Just preference really.
Where are you mounting the new relays in the bay?
 
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