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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Fast forward fitting and wiring - I will get that updated shortly but the end result is this. Obviously low beams can be turned on as normal with out the high beams but here for the picture you can see high beams on at the same time. This is a complete new harness all the way from the flasher switch. During the night the lights have become a lot brighter and overall much better than they were before.

I'll start taking orders for this in about two weeks as I'm flat out busy with work at the moment. Will post prices once I work out supplies and costs.

 

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I forget, did you say somewhere if it's compatible with non-projector headlights? Saw someone asked (maybe on your Facebook page?) and I didn't see an answer. I wouldn't see why it wouldn't work with them, but maybe there's something I don't know.
 

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As long as it has the 3 pin male socket that splits to low and high beams the kit will fit. If there is a different connector we can cater for that also.
 

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As long as it has the 3 pin male socket that splits to low and high beams the kit will fit. If there is a different connector we can cater for that also.
The non-projectors use the 3 prong plug that's already part of the factory harness. I have H1 lights, so it has the additional adapter that plugs into the factory light harness and the other end gets the bulb.
If that's what you mean, then, yeah should work.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Video showing how much brighter the lights are even though the was no engine therefore not running at 14.4v it should do with the alternator.

 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yes late model. Was important to get full voltage to the bulbs. Most stock wiring delivers only 11-11.5v at best from the cars we have fitted the relay kits to. Power vs lumens is exponential. At 14.2v you almost get double the lumens.

 

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Yes late model. Was important to get full voltage to the bulbs. Most stock wiring delivers only 11-11.5v at best from the cars we have fitted the relay kits to. Power vs lumens is exponential. At 14.2v you almost get double the lumens.

I have run a direct feed from the battery for the power and use a relay to do the switching. It also does the 'flapper' control for the main beam. But as the 'flapper' has failed I might redo the wiring to simplify things.

The above bulb doesn't look like it has a fan on the heatsink. Could I ask what brand it is. Wehn I was playing with the LED bulbs a while ago the units without fans were all rubbish. I'm guessing that things have moved on but it would be nice to know if you can get fanless bulbs which are decent. One less thing to go wrong and all that.

These LED bulbs are moving forwards nicely. I suspect with the correct gear you could make an LED set-up which would outperform HID. Interestingly all of the endurance teams I've seen are using LEDs but they always use them with reflector set-ups rather than projectors. I wonder if this is a perfromance thing (i.e. reflectors work better with LEDs) or perhaps a reliability issue (less stuff to go wrong in the event of a knock).
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I have run a direct feed from the battery for the power and use a relay to do the switching. It also does the 'flapper' control for the main beam. But as the 'flapper' has failed I might redo the wiring to simplify things.

The above bulb doesn't look like it has a fan on the heatsink. Could I ask what brand it is. Wehn I was playing with the LED bulbs a while ago the units without fans were all rubbish. I'm guessing that things have moved on but it would be nice to know if you can get fanless bulbs which are decent. One less thing to go wrong and all that.

These LED bulbs are moving forwards nicely. I suspect with the correct gear you could make an LED set-up which would outperform HID. Interestingly all of the endurance teams I've seen are using LEDs but they always use them with reflector set-ups rather than projectors. I wonder if this is a perfromance thing (i.e. reflectors work better with LEDs) or perhaps a reliability issue (less stuff to go wrong in the event of a knock).
I have had mine for over a year now no issues at all. Led bulbs are evolving fast the ones I have are obsolete lol but does use the Philips leds. I bought these from Yahoo but the same ones are on eBay also. Cost £40. Was more for testing but as they were good I kept them.

Reflector setup is a better solution having seen some new cars come factory fitted has reflectors also as you have said. Problem with the Skyline is People want silly money for N1 reflector based Headlights and I’m not going to pay that money for them. Eventually I will just get a Morimoto conversion done I have another set of lights as spares.
 

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I have had mine for over a year now no issues at all. Led bulbs are evolving fast the ones I have are obsolete lol but does use the Philips leds. I bought these from Yahoo but the same ones are on eBay also. Cost £40. Was more for testing but as they were good I kept them.

Reflector setup is a better solution having seen some new cars come factory fitted has reflectors also as you have said. Problem with the Skyline is People want silly money for N1 reflector based Headlights and I’m not going to pay that money for them. Eventually I will just get a Morimoto conversion done I have another set of lights as spares.
I have LEDs in my main beam. Might look to upgrade the bulbs then - mine have been in place for several years now so very likely that things have moved on.

I considered going down the reflector route back in the day (before people decided to add zeros to Skyline parts for fun). One thing which put me off was that AFAIK the light generated by HIDs or LEDs does not reflect in the same way as incandescents (i.e. normal filament bulbs). Given that they do dip beam too I'm not sure that the outcome wouldn't blind oncoming traffic.

Replacement projectors is, IMHO, the best way forward. I would warn about the Morimotos and their 'flappers' (the bit that flicks down to provide main beam). I have some better units which are not supposed to have issues with the 'flapper'. They still stick. I have undertaken the mods to improve the 'flapper'. It still sticks. Perhaps the version 7+ will have cracked the problem. Worth noting that they didn't stick for the first 12-24 months and I could make them work happily on the bench. I just use them as dipped beam now and all is well.
 

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Yeah, saw this on your Facebook page, still interested in this! Looks like a good fix to a simple problem. I'm surprised Nissan never had any kind of TSB/Recall about this. Not sure if my car is having the issue or not, maybe it's just starting. Was fine for a year, then the last 6 months or so, turn the switch, headlight filezilla uc browser rufus s come on but no dash/radio/etc lights and no tail or license plate lights.
But, if I keep the switch on and push the fog light switch, everything works. Weird! Might be something simple, haven't looked into it yet, but either way, like the idea of this kit.
First step was looking at various ways at making up a harness - the R32 setup is rather confusing so took a while to figure it out and have a clear design that worked. There were some diagrams out there which were complex so was better to start from scratch in some ways.
 
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