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R32 GTR Headlight Rewire Harness

18K views 38 replies 16 participants last post by  MARINA 
#1 · (Edited)
Having burnt out the light switch on my R32 (very common on R32s) I decided to make up a new harness that not only feeds the current via relays but also replacing the headlight harness also. Another bonus is that when pulling the main beams the low beams will remain on. Voltage drop from the battery to the bulb was some 1.4 volts on the driver side and 1.5 on the passenger side. Voltage vs Lumens is exponential so that amount of voltage loss results in less light being out to the road.

First step was looking at various ways at making up a harness - the R32 setup is rather confusing so took a while to figure it out and have a clear design that worked. There were some diagrams out there which were complex so was better to start from scratch in some ways.

Only 3 wires require cutting and joining up to existing wires at the switch side for the signal from the switch and an earth. An extra ring terminal earth is fastened to the chassis and a positive to the battery terminal. Over the next few posts I'll get some more pictures up.

Burnt out harness was cut and replaced with a fresh connector and length of wiring.





New power harness for the headlights.

 
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#2 ·
Yeah, saw this on your Facebook page, still interested in this! Looks like a good fix to a simple problem. I'm surprised Nissan never had any kind of TSB/Recall about this. Not sure if my car is having the issue or not, maybe it's just starting. Was fine for a year, then the last 6 months or so, turn the switch, headlights come on but no dash/radio/etc lights and no tail or license plate lights.
But, if I keep the switch on and push the fog light switch, everything works. Weird! Might be something simple, haven't looked into it yet, but either way, like the idea of this kit.
 
#39 · (Edited)
Yeah, saw this on your Facebook page, still interested in this! Looks like a good fix to a simple problem. I'm surprised Nissan never had any kind of TSB/Recall about this. Not sure if my car is having the issue or not, maybe it's just starting. Was fine for a year, then the last 6 months or so, turn the switch, headlight filezilla uc browser rufus s come on but no dash/radio/etc lights and no tail or license plate lights.
But, if I keep the switch on and push the fog light switch, everything works. Weird! Might be something simple, haven't looked into it yet, but either way, like the idea of this kit.
First step was looking at various ways at making up a harness - the R32 setup is rather confusing so took a while to figure it out and have a clear design that worked. There were some diagrams out there which were complex so was better to start from scratch in some ways.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Just looking for some clarification...

So will the power harness kit also include a repair for the headlight switch plug? Or do I need the power harness in addition to the switch plug?

Just curious if the kit is going to be inclusive

Edit... I read my post and realised it sounded as if English was my 3rd language
 
#11 ·
yeah that's my concern too. i would think a new harness piece is needed (the connector with yellow wires you posted) and then the harness kit to make the power run through relays and not through the switch.
my other concern is, having both the low beams and high beams on at the same time, will that cause any issues with those running non-projector headlights? i have projector lights at the moment, but will be switching to non-projectors in the near future.
wish you were in japan, i'd love to do testing on this, as like you said, it's probably my problem.
 
#12 ·
Would be keen on one of these when you make them, with the one that connects to the fuse box in the bonnet does it have any wires running back into the the car or is all in the engine bay?
 
#13 ·
Nice idea this, I hate the thought of the full feed sitting through that dash switch all the time!

I'm interested in the version that sits in the bay - presumably you fit that into the existing wiring in series to divert the existing feed so it only switches the relays, then add a direct feed to the relays which then goes into the headlights?
 
#21 · (Edited)
Fast forward fitting and wiring - I will get that updated shortly but the end result is this. Obviously low beams can be turned on as normal with out the high beams but here for the picture you can see high beams on at the same time. This is a complete new harness all the way from the flasher switch. During the night the lights have become a lot brighter and overall much better than they were before.

I'll start taking orders for this in about two weeks as I'm flat out busy with work at the moment. Will post prices once I work out supplies and costs.

 
#36 ·
I have run a direct feed from the battery for the power and use a relay to do the switching. It also does the 'flapper' control for the main beam. But as the 'flapper' has failed I might redo the wiring to simplify things.

The above bulb doesn't look like it has a fan on the heatsink. Could I ask what brand it is. Wehn I was playing with the LED bulbs a while ago the units without fans were all rubbish. I'm guessing that things have moved on but it would be nice to know if you can get fanless bulbs which are decent. One less thing to go wrong and all that.

These LED bulbs are moving forwards nicely. I suspect with the correct gear you could make an LED set-up which would outperform HID. Interestingly all of the endurance teams I've seen are using LEDs but they always use them with reflector set-ups rather than projectors. I wonder if this is a perfromance thing (i.e. reflectors work better with LEDs) or perhaps a reliability issue (less stuff to go wrong in the event of a knock).
 
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