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From what I know all R32's had a finned diff where as non v spec 33's didn't have fins and 33 v spec had fins.

I'm sure someone will correct if I'm wrong. I would guess that the R32 v spec diff should be no different as the updates were braking and faster acting 4wd and hicas. I don't think it was a torque biasing diff like in the 33/34.
 

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From what I know all R32's had a finned diff where as non v spec 33's didn't have fins and 33 v spec had fins.

I'm sure someone will correct if I'm wrong. I would guess that the R32 v spec diff should be no different as the updates were braking and faster acting 4wd and hicas. I don't think it was a torque biasing diff like in the 33/34.
+1 on that
 

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On R33 gtr, only the V spec had fins on the rear diff.

On the R32 gtr, most of them had fins, but i've seen non-finned types on v specs, however, someone has previously said that later gtrs had no fins and doesn't denote a difference unlike the r33.

Also recalled been shown FAST where the diff for the R32 V spec internal is different from the regular.
 

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adam, i think the v spec diff have an oil pressure feed going to the casing, i know mine has, is a banjo bolted to the rear of the diff, i presume to load then plates in the diff, worth checking mate. bernie
 

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So a NON vspec and a V spec r32 rear LSD should be the same mechanically? So doesnt matter which one is dropped in as a replacement
forgetting r33 differences.

Most R32 gtr have fins, some apparently don't, the vspec i've seen doesn't so guessing there was a cover plate on later models which would encompass vspecs.

Nissan FAST shows the vspec having different diff internals to std types.

Are the two interchangeble?, probably, its a nissan.
 

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V-Spec R33 is the Active rear diff - has finned cover and hydraulic pipework.

R32 Diff's - early models all had the finned covers.

Late R32's(Including the V-Specs) had a smooth cover plate and the stub shafts went to a larger diameter for the splined part. This was identical to the diff fitted to non-V-Spec R33's.

R34 non V-Spec has a helical type LSD. (R34 diffs are different ratio of course)

Many of the aftermarket diff's use the late type larger diameter stub shafts.
Nismo one's often are supplied with the stub shafts.
I sourced a set of R33 stub shafts when fitting an ATS Carbon LSD to my R32 early type diff.

An R33 non-V-Spec or late type R32 diff is straight bolt in swap to an early R32.
As for the internals the LSD plates etc are the same in all - the difference is the side gears which have the different spline for the stub shafts.
 

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From what I know all R32's had a finned diff where as non v spec 33's didn't have fins and 33 v spec had fins.

I'm sure someone will correct if I'm wrong. I would guess that the R32 v spec diff should be no different as the updates were braking and faster acting 4wd and hicas. I don't think it was a torque biasing diff like in the 33/34.
Your right, QFT. The only reason I agree is because I was actually talking to one of my buds about the difference between the two the other day, lol.
 

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adam, daft question but with 2.5 degrees of neg camber which is a lot anyway would altering the caster not aid turning in?.

cue chris wilson lol
 

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anyone able to confirm which oil i would need in the rear diff of a May 93 r32 Vspec??
it has a finned cover btw.

are the oil options for a non vspec and vspec the same or different on a r32 gtr?

ive tried to search as much as i can, but with conflicting opinions and facts!
 

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Bernie - On a seperate subject - Camber arms.

At Anglesey you mentioned chopping them down.

which parts where you referring to? We can only get about 2.5deg of front camber just now

Adam, see where the thread ends on the left hand side of the lower arm pictured, I disassembled mine, put them in the lathe and made the thread longer. Then I chopped around 10mm off the end that goes into the adjuster so that it doesn't bind up on the other one. This works well and gives way more camber. If you want I can get a picture later in the week?
 

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Adam, see where the thread ends on the left hand side of the lower arm pictured, I disassembled mine, put them in the lathe and made the thread longer. Then I chopped around 10mm off the end that goes into the adjuster so that it doesn't bind up on the other one. This works well and gives way more camber. If you want I can get a picture later in the week?
How do you find that type of top arm ? I was reading a thread on SAU a whileago and they were talking about the bearings wearing out when castors increased and people having to keep tightening the locking clamps up. What sort of mileage have you done on yours ?

Cheers

Stu
 
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