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How do you find that type of top arm ? I was reading a thread on SAU a whileago and they were talking about the bearings wearing out when castors increased and people having to keep tightening the locking clamps up. What sort of mileage have you done on yours ?

Cheers

Stu
Sorry for slow reply, I used them for quite a while until I crashed and bent one, they seemed quite good, always had to tighten up the clamps though. The bearings in them seemed to be fine and I was running 6-7 deg castor. I probably did around 5000 race Kms..... I also found them a pain to adjust on the car. Very hard to get a spanner up there to turn the adjuster....
 

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can someone confirm that a non vspec diff will fit onto a v spec r32 gtr? the reason i ask is i have ordered a non v spec diff for my non v spec r32 gtr but the seller has thrown a bit of doubt in my mind. the diff in my car at the moment is a horrible 2 way type, but i suppose its possible its been converted/fitted with a v spec diff. is there anyway i can identify the difference externally? looking a pics he seems to think my current diff is a v spec. im not convinced
 

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The V-Spec diffs have output flanges that are circular with 6 holes in each where as the non V-Spec has flanges that look more like a chain cog with the 6 holes.
The half shafts will only work with the matching diff, so if you are removing a V-Spec diff to put a standard non V-Spec in you will need to change half shafts as well.
 

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Didn***8217;t think there was any difference with R32 GTR diffs apart from early having a finned cover and later models non finned.
 

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FRRACER is mostly right.
All R32 GT-R diffs are the same apart from early ones have finned covers and lower spline count on the stub shafts, later models have smooth cover and higher spline count. Late 32 and non vspec r33 are the same except the r33 casing isnt machined for the ATTESA pump mountings.
 
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