GTR Forum banner

41 - 51 of 51 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Another small update. With all the COVID-19 lockdown going on, I've done 2 things: stopped shaving and went and bought something.
260189


The wife and I thought it would be smart to have another practical car in the lineup. Plus this can double for a time attack car probably next year. Don't let the bugs on the front end fool you; it's mint. The amount of love the previous owner had for it was almost frightening. That being said, she needs a new top. I'm working on talking the wife into a hard top, but she's not really listening to that right now. Probably just going to do another soft top for now.

Anyway, I ordered the GKtech HICAS delete kit for the GTR. I need something to do while I wait on the new harness and ECU and stuff. We'll see if I need to buy a hydraulic press or if I randomly know someone who has one. Either way, the HICAS delete should be done in the next couple weeks, time permitting. The plan is to weigh everything that comes off the car to see what kind of weight savings removing the HICAS really offers.

Cheers for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Sounds like you have a pretty understanding partner. Hows the GT-R coming along and has the DSM been running well?
Yeah, she couldn't care less about cars when we got together. Now she loves them. We actually just sold the Evo. We weren't really planning to sell it, but she posted it on FB marketplace with a price tag. There was no haggling. The idea was if someone was willing to pay us that much, we'd sell it. We found a buyer rather quickly. He has a pretty intense car collection and plans to add the Evo to it. He sent us a picture of him rearranging his garage, moving the Aston and new NSX around to make room.

I'll have an update for the GTR soon. I received my HICAS delete kit, but I've been cleaning up the garage and adding some stuff to it before I get back on with the project. I should have some new rear wheel hub bearings arriving in the next couple days. I figured I would go ahead and knock those out while I have the rear knuckles off. The wiring harness is in the build process, and it should be shipping along with the other, important goodies in the next week or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
"moving the Aston and new NSX around to make room." That's another nice problem to have. Back in college, my roommate had a GSX eclipse. It was fast but would always break down every few months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
And, we're back. Since I ordered my wiring harness and Haltech and other stuff, I've been working on the garage itself. I did some cleaning, both with a broom and with a large trash can, and put up 3 pieces of 4x8 pegboard to get things off the ground and picked up a spanking new 20-ton hydraulic press. I also took an old table and reinforced it, along with mounting a vice to it, in order to have a sturdy shop table. With the boring stuff out of the way, I decided to get the car on jack stands and start pulling stuff apart. I've also been taking stuff off the motor, but that was out of pure curiosity and doesn't warrant its own post yet, although I may have found some debris in the combustion chambers :eek: .

Here's the HICAS kit with a few extra bushings:
260803


Here's a look at the rear, driver's side hub with a pretty little HKS purple behind it:
260804


Here's the passenger side mostly disassembled (ball joint separator is being delivered today):
260805


Since I'm going to have the knuckles off, I decided to replace both of the rear hub bearings and lower control arm ball joints (currently in the mail):
260806

I noticed some light humming from the rear, passenger side wheel, which I assume is the bearing going out. Hopefully it's not a nightmare to get out.

So the HICAS is disconnected and ready to come out as soon as the ball joints are separated. I pulled the lines and let them drain into an oil pan. I plan to remove all the lines headed toward the front of the car, along with the pump and the power steering loop/cooler. I'm starting to doubt this car will ever see an actual track, so I'm not overly worried about the power steering overheating.
260807


Hopefully my update rate will increase now. I might not have huge updates when they come, but at least I won't be waiting months between updates.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
I've been working! Well, I have been when I get the time. So I have the HICAS disconnected and finally removed it. I've been setting the length of the delete kit to match the length of the HICAS pump and arms. It should be good enough to get me to a shop for a wheel alignment.
261006

Puppy pee pads for the win, by the way!

I didn't really decide to, but I started working on just the passenger side. I figure, if I'm going to do all the work, I might as well get one side knocked out at a time. That helps me find some method to how I want to go about doing everything, and it keeps the clutter down. Let's do an 80's montage for the next few pics:
Knuckle off
261007


And the montage is on pause. I realized I want to throw a little comment at the next pic. So the hub is a curious creature. I hear it's nocturnal and doesn't like to leave its home. Well, if you want to remove the hub from the knuckle, back out, but not all the way, the four bolts clamping the hub to the knuckle. Go ahead and remove the massive bolt on top of the hub bearing assembly, the one that holds the parking break spring mount to the hub, clamp the knuckle into a vice and whack the 4 bolts with a hammer (I put a piece of 1x2 between the hammer and the bolt heads). This pushes the hub bearing assembly out of the knuckle. It's not pressed it, but after 25-30 years, they are well-held together. Here's a pick of the back of the knuckle with 2 of the bolts in place:
261008


If you do it right, you can restart the montage. Knuckle, guard and hub assembly:
261009


The lone knuckle:
261010


A close up of the hub bearing seal and the completely destroyed spring inside:
261011

The seal actually cleaned up quite well, but for $15 a pop, I'm going to go ahead and replace them. I keep finding stuff to replace. More on that soon.

Knuckle with old bushings removed (what an absolutely PITA that was) and new poly bushings and Energy Suspension Formula 5 prelube sitting next to the old garabge:
261012


Knuckle with pretty poly bushings installed... delicious:
261013

Why, yes, that is a CAS sitting on the table behind the knuckle. Why don't you pay attention to the main point of the picture and quit snooping around!

This officially ends the montage. Hopefully I can do more quick updates like this. I hate sitting here thinking of what words I want to use in an attempt to concoct some witty retort. It's exhausting! And I already have a baby that exhausts me.

In other news, these came in the mail. The R35 Smartcoil conversion kit is supposed to get here today, but it hasn't arrived by the time of this writing, so you don't get to see it yet. Anyway, here's some good stuff:
261014

AND
261015


There's SO MUCH WIRING HARNESS. Wasn't expecting all that. The big box is the Haltech Elite 2500. The small box is the Haltech wideband 02 kit.

So I think I'm going to just go ahead and replace the bushings on the chassis side of the camber arms, tension rods, toe arms and lower control arms while I'm at it. I'm thinking poly bushings all around. I think I'll also go ahead and replace the lower strut mount bushing too. It just seems to be a good idea while the whole thing is taken apart. That's really not the best excuse as taking the knuckle off really isn't that difficult, but if the car is going to be down for the next few months, I might as well.
I'll have to find a way to press the hub out of the hub bearing. The base on my press isn't wide enough to allow the hub to fall through. I think I can get some steel angle or some steel dowel rod/rebar to hold the bearing while I press on the hub. We'll see. I'll keep you guys posted.

Also, I've been thinking about painting the cam/timing belt covers. I was going to have them powder coated, but all the places that powder coat around me seem to want an arm and a leg. I'll look a little harder, but I'm leaning on a color like gold or burnt copper. Anyone have some input? I might get both the colors, paint some arbitrary piece of metal and compare the looks. Alright, well I feel like I'm ranting so I'm out.
Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Also, I've been thinking about painting the cam/timing belt covers. I was going to have them powder coated, but all the places that powder coat around me seem to want an arm and a leg. I'll look a little harder, but I'm leaning on a color like gold or burnt copper. Anyone have some input? I might get both the colors, paint some arbitrary piece of metal and compare the looks. Alright, well I feel like I'm ranting so I'm out.
Cheers!
I have a friend, he moved, who bought a powdercoating system from harbor freight. Was pretty cheap as well. You could sand down everything with regular sandpaper (or have it sandblasted) and then spray it with the powder coat paint. But, then you'll have to heat it up in an oven. Just make sure the wife approves, because my friend's mom was p*ssed at him using the oven for rims. Came out so nice as if it came like that from the factory and for a small fraction of what shops charge. My motto is " whyhave them do something that you could do yourself with more love?" A lot of shops try and rip off people. I only go for body paint and alignment.

I also have that same zep bottle on the top right of the first picture :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
I have a friend, he moved, who bought a powdercoating system from harbor freight. Was pretty cheap as well.
I thought about getting a powder coating kit. It's not difficult to find an old oven for sale on greg's list, but I don't want to waste the garage space. Using some engine enamel would hold me over for a while. If there's any issues with the paint holding up, I'll get them powder coated later. It's a little low on the priority list, although I do have the covers off right now. I'll give it some more thought.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,345 Posts
Great update, I like your style of writing too! Much like mine, lots of pics and why I'm doing stuff so that it makes sense if I forget half way through what I was doing... Lol 😂

Is the Haltech Elite a lot better than the Platinum? (Or whichever way they go) I want to replace my Apexi PFC at some point, I've got an AEM wideband sensor in the decat too, would I need the Haltech wideband? The AEM has extra wires which I think link up to the ECU. 🤔

Anyway, keep up the great work and pics! 👍
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Great update, I like your style of writing too! Much like mine, lots of pics and why I'm doing stuff so that it makes sense if I forget half way through what I was doing... Lol 😂

Is the Haltech Elite a lot better than the Platinum? (Or whichever way they go) I want to replace my Apexi PFC at some point, I've got an AEM wideband sensor in the decat too, would I need the Haltech wideband? The AEM has extra wires which I think link up to the ECU. 🤔

Anyway, keep up the great work and pics! 👍
Thanks, Duke.

Haltech no longer offers the Platinum series ECUs. Yes, the Elite series is better in essentially every way. From processing speed to safety measures, it's all around better. You don't need Haltech sensors to run their ECUs, but you'll need to know the sensor specs in order to program for it. It shouldn't be that difficult, especially since you're using such a well-known 02 sensor.
 
41 - 51 of 51 Posts
Top