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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, planning on looking into my high idle problem at the weekend, after a bit of advice...

first , on the plenum chamber, the three pipes at the back... the first two larger pipes goto the idle valve (aac or whatever its called in manual), the other goes to the air bypass regulator. At the very back there is a smaller vac hose which goes off to the large assembly of solid pipes... any idea where this goes / which route it takes / where it ends up ?

Also, been reading through diagnostic procedures and going to carry out full throttle adjustment procedure with feeler gauge etc, just wondering what kind of results people get by unplugging the idle valve or regulating valve ?

By schematic the idle valve and by pass pretty much do the same thing just regulated differently, why do they have two by pass valves ??

Last but not least... when turning steering wheel when stationary, what kind of rev increase does every one get ? Prob going to start here as at idle shes sitting around 1600rpm (when warm), and when i turn steering the rev's drop if anything which indicated to me either the switch isnt working (to up the rev's even more) or that the ecu is attempting to raise the rev's, but to raise to desired rpm its actually attempting to lower the rpm (if that makes sence).. or alternatively the switch is doing nothing and just the strain of the pas pump is causing the rev's to drop lol

Hoping once i've sorted this it'll have a knock on affect to the boost concern (wont boost above 0.8 bar with wastegates fully closed!) reacon they are related!

Cheers all, hopefully with some help off here will be able to get her sorted.
 

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The air regulator valve is your fast idle control device, to give you more rpm when the engine is cold. The AAC/IACV is the idle control valve, to regulate the idle depending on engine load.

The former sticks and you get constant fast idle when its warm, just clamp the pipe going in or coming out of it and if the idle drops thats your problem.

The intake gaskets also leak as well as any non-standard BOV's.

The Idle valve could be sticking as well, just disconnect it and see what difference it makes.

If you had a laptop with a blazt cable you could control the valve from that and see what difference it makes. Also you could read any fault codes etc.

I hope you fix it as some seem to have given up and live with the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i could live with it, she just drinks soooo much fuel when doing nothing! doing twice the rpm to sit stationary, waste of juice i could be using to rag the car, lol

Looking to get some consult stuff to go on laptop to diagnose sensors etc as have all the Ford stuff from work and of cause the 16 pin stuff i have dont work - doh

Shall check the BOV's too cheers as these are menna be gready items, how hards bumper to remove on these beasties as they sit under there somewhere dont they ? saw a testing procedure in the diagnostics for them too using midivac so will have to try that

Plus, i want to in the long run get her to the magical 400bhp which id be more than happy with, she only hitting 320bhp @ the mo, which yea, is a lot, but had a stupid high power astra turbo thingie 'nearly' sit with me down southend the other night... never good! lol
 
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