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I swapped out the suspension on my R33GTR today, so thought I’d take a few pictures along the way just to show how it’s done. It’s actually quite a straight forward job!

I had a shock/spring set up already to go on so I didn’t need any spring compressors to get the springs on. This is only to show how I did it; there may be other ways to do it and probably better/easier.

First of all I recommend that you use WD40 or penetrating fluid on all of the nuts that need to come off. I did this during the week on a couple of days.

Tools you’ll need:

WD40/Penetrating fluid
Breaker Bar
Big Screwdriver
Sockets- 17mm, 14mm, 12mm, 10mm, 8mm
Jack
Axel stands (I didn’t use these but for H&S I recommend you do)
Hammer/Mallet (used for a bit of gentle persuasion on things that don’t come off)
A mate would be helpful (although I managed it on my lonesome)

I started with the front first. Open the bonnet and undo the top nuts (14mm) that hold the strut brace on and remove it. Put the nuts back on but don’t fully tighten (they’ll be coming off again soon)



Loosen the wheel nuts. Now jack up the front of the car, I used the Nissan jack and then used my trolley jack to lift it on the front cross member, there’s a big X marked on it to show you where to lift.



Remove the wheel and you’ll now have access to all the nuts and bolts you need to undo. At the bottom of the shock there’s a 17mm nut. Undo this.



You will also need to undo the 10mm nut that holds the brake pipe bracket onto the bracket on the shock. Undo this also.



Now remove the two 14mm nuts in the engine bay- the ones that also bolt down the strut brace. Once these are undone, all the nuts holding the shock to the car have been removed. To remove the shock, I used a big screw driver and levered it forward off the long bolt at the bottom.



Once this is done you should be able to manoeuvre the shock out. Use a hammer/mallet on the top if it’s a bit jammed. Gently does it. Be careful not to damage the brake pipe. On a side note I also found that I had a floating 2 piece Apexi font disc set up fitted- hurrah!

I found out after a lot of head scratching that the next bit is very important if you want to get your new shock back in. There’s a bracket that the drop link is attached to. It’s held to the car by two 12mm nuts. Undo these and move the bracket to one side (no need to undo the drop link). You need to do this so you can move the hub down to get the new shock on to the car.



Manoeuvre the new shock into place, again, taking care not to damage the brake pipe. You’ll need to push down on the hub to get the bottom of the shock on to the long bolt. Once this is done, replace all the nuts including bolting the brake pipe bracket to the body of the shock. In order to get the drop link bracket bolted back up, you’ll need to use a jack to lift the hub upwards for the holes to line up again. I had a spare Nissan jack to do it- or you can lift it- but I don’t recommend this method unless you’re He-Man. Also almost forgot to mention that the shock has a paper gasket at the top, I re-used mine as it was in reasonably good shape.

Do the same for the other side then get the car back on the ground.

Now for the rear. To do these, you’ll need to remove the rear seats and the parcel shelf. Remove the bench first. There are two weird shaped bolts that need to be undone. A normal 8mm socket will do the job.



Lift up the bench and you will see what looks to be like 2 metal rods. This is in fact a hoop.



Use a big screw driver/breaker bar and lever the bench up, it will pop out of its housing. Do this on the other side of the bench as well and then take it out of the car. I was expecting to have a Royal Rumble match with it but the hoops popped out fairly easily.



Now you need to remove the back rest, this is held on by two 12mm bolts as shown below- one on each side. Remove them. To take the back rest out you need to lift it up towards the roof and then bring it forwards as it’s held in place on three metal hangars.




I found a big dead Japanese wasp under my seats:



I was hoping to find some used kickers:nervous:

Next, you need to take out the parcel shelf, just lift it upwards and you should hear the clips pop out. On the passenger side you will see a metal bracket. This is held on by two 10mm bolts. Undo these and remove the bracket.



This will allow you to unclip the parcel shelf from the locating lug on the C pillar.



Manoeuvre the parcel shelf out. On the drivers side there’s another metal bracket but this one’s got some important looking box of electronics bolted to it. Unclip the wiring plug from it and also unclip the wire bundle.



Unbolt the bracket and remove it from the car. You will now see the rubber covers for the strut tops.



Take these off and then undo the 12mm bolts you see



Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the car and take off the wheel. Undo the 17mm bolt:



There’s a nut on the other side of it so you’ll need to put a spanner on it to stop it from spinning so you can undo the bolt and remove it from the bottom of the shock.



Remove the shock- hammer time may be necessary to help loosen it up. Manoeuvre your new shock into place; you can push down on the hub to line it all up. Now you can put all of the nuts back on. Do the same on the other side and drop the car back down. Replace all of the interior bits that you took off before and jobs a good-un!

You now have new shocks & springs or coilovers fitted and hopefully it’s lower than before.
 

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awesome guide and very helpful, pat on the back for you as i'll be fitting coilovers soon.


possibly make a sticky or link to faq?
 

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Better stance now that its lowered. How long did that take you?

Its amazing how the light can change the cars colour from purple to grey, btw I thought you had white wheels on the Car? it looks so different now compared to how I normally see it, is this a different car? lol
 

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I'm doing mine too!

This will be useful thanks for the heads up.

IMPORTANT! What torque setting did you do the big lower bolt on the front shocks (17mm one) and the top ones on the strut brace??

Cheers, Will.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
@Treg- Who knows- you may find even better treasures hidden away in yours:D

@Nas- I sold my midnight purple GTR, this is a totally different one lol!

@Mook- no probs

@Will- I dont know the exact torque settings as I dont have a manual but the top ones need to be tight but not super tight. The 17mm nut I did fairly tight so it doesnt randomly fall off!

@Moleman- yep that's no problem, wherever you think it would be best

@Rob- Shocks & springs are great! It now feels really similar to my old GTR and that's a good thing;)
 

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lol must have missed the for-sale ad. I Just read about Your R33 the "ringer". Didn't expect that - that car really did look good on the street, so why did you sell it in the end?

Any major plans for this one?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
LOL, just read about Your R33 the "ringer". Didn't expect that - that car really did look good on the street, so why did you sell it in the end?

Any major plans for this one?
To be honest, that car was stunning (and it was all 100% legit & legal- I origionally got it off a member from this forum). I regretted selling it after I saw the new owner drive off with a big cheesy grin on his face! That's the reason I went and got this one.

Thing is, I'm actually thinking of selling this one as well now beacuse I'm thinking I should try something else like an evo or an R32GTR.:eek:

I'm undecided yet so we'll see.
 

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evo or an R32GTR.:eek:

I'm undecided yet so we'll see.
I guess it depends on what you want it for, IMO Evo's are completely different league (not saying its better just different)

I would be tempted to see a R32 GTR allows you to make a good comparison.
 

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It night be worth mentioning, that you dont have to remove the rear seats on the
R32 GTR - yet everything else is the same as the R33
 

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Nice "How to".
It will be useful for the installation of BC racing coilovers on my 33 next week.
Thanks (even 4 years after first post)
 
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