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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a living nightmare with my R34 UK-Spec.

After a scrape I had the rear bumper painted and refitted it myself today. The reverse and fog lamps were refitted and they both use a little LED bulb.

The wiring is dodgy on those bulbs and when refitting connections were bad. I decided to turn on the ignition, lights, fog light and put it into reverse so the bulbs would light up when refitting.

The fog light was fine but the reverse light was being dodgy - I pulled out the buld holder and suddenly there was a very loud and not nice sounding grinding/screeching coming from what I think is the ATESSA pump. Turning off the ignition stops the horrible noise. It was constant, it sounded like the pump was working but it was dry. There is oil in the system and it's worked fine since I've had the car.

The reverse lamp wiring is no longer showing a voltage, no matter if it's in reverse, the ignition on etc. etc.

With ignition on the clocks showed the 4WD high temperature warning and the horrible noise continued.

I've checked basically all the fuses in the car, they all seem fine (engine room, next to the battery, drivers footwell).

There was a small silver box in the boot shelf area which was not connected, although before these problems I believe all was fine with the car. I put the plug back in, and started the ignition - no more horrible noise, but also no more 4WD warning lamp - in fact almost all lamps in the clocks have died, no ABS, battery etc. Also there is no RPM reading. I'm assuming some fuse for the clocks has blown, but again going through the fuses they all seem fine.

The car still starts (it's on a Link ECU) however there is a constant reading of boost not fluctuating with revs at all. There water temperature is showing 130!

I'm assuming that there was a short circuit on the LED reverse lamp - but for it to cause such a nightmare is unbelievable.

Any help would be greatly appreciated - I will take some pics of the various components on the shelf, I'd like to know what each one is so I can start pulling them to see what happens.

I still can't get round how a short circuit on a reverse lamp can cause all this :flame::flame::mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I have pulled all the various ECUs on the shelf, and had a look.

If I disconnect the small silver box (PN: 31036-37P60) the noise starts. If I connect it the noise stops. There is also a relay on the shelf which is somehow connected to this system.

Here's a pic I found of the small controller:



Does anyone know which ECU is controlling this system? Could it be part of the HICAS System?

I've noticed that when the ignition is switched on after the car has sat for a while, a pump kicks in and builds up pressure then stops. The car has always done this - is it the fuel system priming?

Even with all the ECUs on the shelf disconnected, the MFD is still showing 130deg water Temperature. There are no warnings in the instrument cluster - even the seat belt warning lamp has disappeared.

I've not found a blown fuse yet, the only fuse box left to be checked is the one in the drivers side footwell.

I have a feeling that the instrument cluster may be controlled by one of the ECUs on the shelf, or the Link, and that the short circuit may have fried one or more of these units :mad:
 

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The noise you hear when you switch the ignition on is probably the attessa pump but if you gave an aftermarket fuel pump it will be that priming too.

Glad to hear you got it sorted
 
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