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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed the clicking noise today , its a constantly clicking every 5 secs or so

and the noise is coming from this relay , is this the relay for the hicas ??

Is there actually something wrong with my hicas system or do i just need to buy a new relay ?

thanks guys



 

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clicking sound in the boot

hey mate,

im a new owner of a 34 gt-r and im hearing that clicking sound on idle how do i get it fixed ? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
replace ur attessa system accumulator - its the black canister looks like an oil filter located on the back-right-hand side rear bumper

it fixed my problem right away, i replaced it with 2nd hand c34 stagea accumulator
 

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:confused:My R34 GTR has always done this, I did'nt even know anything was wrong until reading this post.:eek: The car drives great with no issues what so ever,so bay fixing this what difference will it make. Thanks
 

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:confused:My R34 GTR has always done this, I did'nt even know anything was wrong until reading this post.:eek: The car drives great with no issues what so ever,so bay fixing this what difference will it make. Thanks
I agree with you and shouldn't it throw a warning light so it can be picked up on the diagnostic if there was a problem???

I say, "don't try and fix something that ain't broken".

You can also check your torque share on the front wheels on the MFD of the R34 GTRs.
 

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If the accumulator is stuffed, you won't see anything untoward on the mfd, that only shows what the computer is telling the system to do, not measuring the result.
 

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Hmmm, now you getting me worried.
Don't get too paranoid. I'd bet 90% of GTR, Stag and GT4 owners have this same issue yet don't know about it.
What surprises me is the number of R34's that are showing up.
My 32 is 20 years old and I'd have been very optomistic to expect the nitrogen charge to stay full for 20 years. But 34's are half that age.
Your system will still work as intended, but the hydraulic pump is working overtime. Instead of pumping up to pressure against the accumulator's nitrogen charge and then cutting out, it's cutting in/out/in/out. (since the accumulator has lost its charge)
Unlike Toyota's electro hydraulic brake computer, the Nissan ATTESA computer doesn't have a duty cycle check so it doesn't throw a fault when the pump is over cycling.
A new accumulator can be purchased from Nissan, around $350 here in Aus.
 

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Mate can the accumulator be removed quite easily and new one re-installed with the need for bleeding the system or anything?

Basically, what is involved with changing one of these?
 

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You have to drop the system's pressure first by opening the bleed.
Unscrew the accumulator and fit the new one.
Bleed the system.
Good idea to check the seal between the accumulator and the housing.
 

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In my car it is loud enough to hear but then again I have no rear trim whatsoever! I'd imagine you could hear it in traffic in full trim as long as you don't had a silly exhaust.

Each time mine clicks in you can see a very very slight difference in the electronics, a bit like putting the AC on if that makes sense?!?

Like the chap above says I bet 90% of GTRs are like this.
 

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i have never hear this with my car only noise is coming from the back switch on for couple of sec ant the sound is like a laud fuel pump its coming on and off, does anyone knows what noise is that? maybe hicas pump?
 

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I tried that part number at Nissan when I was there this week but the system didn't recognise it.

I'm sure mine is gone and needs replacing.

Not sure where it is. I thought it was by the 4WD reservoir but no such luck. Perhaps someone with fast can get the diagram up or someone knows where it is?
 

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i could get the fast diagram up over the weekend

If you guys need i can source a new accumalator thingy expensive though in the region of 500 usd for a new unit.
But i can also get the diagram up if you want over the weekend have to reinstall my system again.
 
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