GTR Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

So I bought a relatively stock R34 GTR and after 500kms (all was working fine) the engine just shutdown on the highway.

The engine is cranking but refuse to start again.

So in the correct order, I checked using the supplement service manual:

-no engine light at any moment

-fuel pump (I can hear it when I switch on the key and the fuel pipe gets hard)

-checked all the fuses next to the throttle pedal and also in the engine bay

-self diagnostic give me error 55 (so no malfunction)

-I have 12V to the coil ignition on the power pin of this coil

-I don't have an oscilloscope however when cranking the engine I must see like 0.06V to 0.09V on the command of the coil ignition using a multimeter but I got 0v on each command of the spark plug

-wiring of the ignition coil is okay (continuity test)

-There was an aftermarket ignition control box (adic siccle advanced ignition control) connected to the ECM; so I removed it however after doing so I got error 20 ? (the orignal hairness seems to be intact !)

-I open the ECM but didn't find anything bad (bad soldering, blow components ...)

So this investigation supposed that the ECM is not working properly ?!

Question :

-what is error code 20 ?

-if the ECM is working fine; what are the causes that avoid it to command the ignition coils ?

There is also an aftermarket alarm I normally desarm it (using the key fob) code alarm PF7600 I don't think there is a relation to my problem but I mention this.

Thanks for any hint
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks for your quick reply

however like I said I got the 12v on the power pin of each ignition cool which mean that the fuse and the relay is okay

best regards
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
If possible, take it to a shop! However if you're really interested in diagnosing it yourself...

The R34 does have an immobilizer that wouldn't allow it to start if it were malfunctioning, however in that case, I would think that the engine wouldn't crank. My first suspect would be that ignition amplifier and how it's been wired in. A ground could have come loose or something as you were driving along.

You could also try buying a spare known-working ECU and swapping it in just to eliminate that as a possibility and you should still check all of the fuses in the engine bay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your reply
I really appreciated

Taking to a shop is not really possible; I live in France and this kind of car is rare so I prefer to do it myself.

By ignition amplifier, you mean the spark plug coil ?
Well I have no sparks on the 6; so I don't think all the 6 just blow like this ?
For the wiring of these coils, it's a 3 pin connector:
-ground is okay
-power is okay (I got 12v when ignition key is switch on); means that fuse and relay are fine
-command seems not to be okay (using a multimeter I got 0V instead of 0.06v -0.09v when cranking); means that ECU don't command them (continuity test of the hairness between ECU and spark plug coil is fine )

Can I used any R34 GTR ECU ?
Will it required some software (and/or hardware) modification

Best regards
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
I'm sorry, by "ignition amplifier" I meant the aftermarket ADIC "advanced injection controller" box. If you have an error code after uninstalling it, meaning not just unplugging it but removing its harness from the factory injector and ignition wiring and putting everything back to stock, something isn't connected properly. It's unusual to find one of those in a Skyline and I would suspect that it hasn't been installed well and shouldn't be necessary in the first place.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the R34 ECU cares about which chassis it's in and you should be able to swap in another one without changing anything. Most likely the problem is something else though. Immobilizer, a fuse, a bad ground, etc.
One more thing you could check is the wiring going to the crank angle sensor on the front of the valve cover.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,859 Posts
It looks like you are not getting a switching feed to the coils. I would go to the injectors to see if they are switching too. You can use a tester on the see if it’s switching or alternatively, check one side you will have battery voltage (+) and the other side is switched earth on cranking.
If you have got injectors working then this would confirm it’s only on ignition side, or if not then I’d be looking at the CAS sensor. (Make sure the plug is in first maybe)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for your hint guys !

But it looks like CAS
wiring from ECU to CAS is okay
CAS is correcltly powered

When cranking the engine the ring of the cam sensor don't move so I will remove completely the sensor and see what's behind.

Do you have an idea what can be the root cause ? (it looks like mechanical issue ...)

see pictures


 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,859 Posts
Quite a bit of metal there. Mark up the cas and the cambelt cover so it will go in the same place when you put it back (not that I think that***8217;ll be going back on) then take the 3 10mm off that hold it on. You then pull the CAS off. Be careful. If it***8217;s broken you don***8217;t want anything falling into the cambelt area. Also make sure the cam is turning too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
So end of the story

the bearing blocked and then the axe broke.

I guess the axe can't be bought individually and I will need a new one ?

What about buying an used one and changed the bearing ? (cost less)

Thanks for your rapidity and advices !


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks I just buy one on aliexpress (about 60E!) which has same quality as original I will have a try on them

Why ? because I marked the screw before removing the old one so I just need to put the new one at the correct place

Thanks for your support
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,040 Posts
Thanks I just buy one on aliexpress (about 60E!) which has same quality as original I will have a try on them

Why ? because I marked the screw before removing the old one so I just need to put the new one at the correct place

Thanks for your support
I hope you're not buying an RB CAS unit from Aliexpress! :eek: they're famous for selling Chinese knockoffs etc etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I'm sorry, by "ignition amplifier" I meant the aftermarket ADIC "advanced injection controller" box. If you have an error code after uninstalling it, meaning not just unplugging it but removing its harness from the factory injector and ignition wiring and putting everything back to stock, something isn't connected properly. It's unusual to find one of those in a Skyline and I would suspect that it hasn't been installed well and shouldn't be necessary in the first place.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the R34 ECU cares about which chassis it's in and you should be able to swap in another one without changing anything. Most likely the problem is something else though. Immobilizer, a fuse, a bad ground, etc.
One more thing you could check is the wiring going to the crank angle sensor on the front of the valve cover.
You are correct you can swap another ECU and the car will fire, I was present when Abbey did it on mine to test something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
If it helps - when I swapped to a G4+ from the factory ECU we couldn't get the injectors working as they were being controlled by a Siemens body control module. We had to both deactivate it, change the wiring and do some fancy stuff in the new ECU to get them to be recognized.
Was definitely a complicated process and something I wouldn't have been able to do by myself!
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top