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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys !

I have a R34 GTR, and i have been recomended this setup. I just need a second opinion. The goal is 550hp. All the brands are not decided yet.

Setup:
*HKS 2530 Turbos
*Bigger elbows
*Bigger downpipe
*cat replacement (got it already)
*Upgrade guelpump, like walbros biggest
*Fuelpressure regulator on original Fuelrail.
*720cc injectors
*Power FC
*HKS mainfold in steel
*Z32 airflow meters x 2
*Blow valve HKS race
*Intercooler
*Steel gaskets

*Klutch (dont know what yet, any ideas ?)
Just say what you think.

best regards.
/M
 

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I assume you'll be fitting a free flowing exhaust? IMHO you could probably ignore the Blow valve and Intercooler and still make that number comfortably. Personally I'd spend the money saved on oil and cooling extras.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i've already got exhaust.
So you think the blow valve and IC is waste of money in these numbers ?
Is the oil cooling a big problem in these numbers ?, the car is only a street car so.

I mean, the intercooler is probibly nesessary if i want to continue tuning the car ?! But tho the oil cooling is also nesessery in that case.

Thanx for your reply
 

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Yeh i don't think the blow off valve is a neccessity.

Definitely get an oil cooler, and dependant on your budget, either a nismo thermostat (cheaper option) or a uprated rad. Again not a neccesity, but will help keep temps down.
 

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Are 720's REALLY necessary for HKS 2530's???? I only ask as I may be going this route myself but thought 600's might have been enough.
As for clutch I'd choose a Nismo Coppermix twin :bowdown1: . Heard nothing but good things about it despite the price :chuckle:

TT
 

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Forget the airflow meters and fit V pro it will help loose the shuffle on the turbos its also more flexible in the long run. Dont forget new clutch!, New Cams would also help and dont forget the bigger brakes! try Stoptech 355,s all around.
 

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Are 720's REALLY necessary for HKS 2530's???? I only ask as I may be going this route myself but thought 600's might have been enough.
As for clutch I'd choose a Nismo Coppermix twin :bowdown1: . Heard nothing but good things about it despite the price :chuckle:

TT
I've heard the 600's can be on the limit, and alot of people upgarde to 720+ later on. So you might aswell get 720's in the first place. This is my consensus from peoples setups and experiences on here.

R1 Nismo; whats the driveability like airflow meter-less? Especially town
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanx guys.

Yeh i forgtot the Brakes, but i was planning that.
R1 pro: whats v-pro ?
R33 v-spec: Sorry my english are not so god. whats a rad ?

I think i will run on 720cc.

THANX
 

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Hello guys !

I have a R34 GTR, and i have been recomended this setup. I just need a second opinion. The goal is 550hp. All the brands are not decided yet.

Setup:
*HKS 2530 Turbos
*Bigger elbows
*Bigger downpipe
*cat replacement (got it already)
*Upgrade guelpump, like walbros biggest
*Fuelpressure regulator on original Fuelrail.
*720cc injectors
*Power FC
*HKS mainfold in steel
*Z32 airflow meters x 2
*Blow valve HKS race
*Intercooler
*Steel gaskets

*Klutch (dont know what yet, any ideas ?)
Just say what you think.

best regards.
/M
i have a triple plate exeddy on my r34 gtr. i was a bit concerned that it would be a nightmare to drive but its not that bad at all. also seen other 34 gtrs with this clutch... i would reccomend.
£950 delivered from nengun if i remember rightly:squintdan
also, you do know your car probably wont last long at 550bhp on a standard engine??? mine lasted approx 300miles on 1.4bar before it started smoking (piston ring) been of the road for a good 2 months now.... picking it up weds with forged rods and pisons... will be running 1.5- 1.6bar maybe... hoping for 630bhpish
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i have a triple plate exeddy on my r34 gtr. i was a bit concerned that it would be a nightmare to drive but its not that bad at all. also seen other 34 gtrs with this clutch... i would reccomend.
£950 delivered from nengun if i remember rightly:squintdan
also, you do know your car probably wont last long at 550bhp on a standard engine??? mine lasted approx 300miles on 1.4bar before it started smoking (piston ring) been of the road for a good 2 months now.... picking it up weds with forged rods and pisons... will be running 1.5- 1.6bar maybe... hoping for 630bhpish

So this applyes to all GTR. That about 500-550 hp ? Or is it just a matter of what shape the engin is in ? im aware that u wrote "probibly". But nobody else have told me that it wont last. So thats why im asking ? :)

Thanx, i'll be looking out for this clutch.

Thanx again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I have made some reserch and it made some sens to me, that alot of people run on stock bottom end on these figures. Rather than just saying "your engine will not last long on higher boosts with stock eng", its probibly a matter of condition of engine, the way you drive your car, where you drive it (strip, street etc), what you have your rev limiter set to and who made the tuning (someone with the experience of tunting R34, or someone with less, ur actualy someone that havent made tune for GTR Before).

Cause as alot of people that have broke their engine at stock bottom end, alot of people have run bigger turbos on high boost with the same setup on engine, and made it run well. I wonder how many people that broke their engine missed a spot.

Is there something right in what im writing ?

Thanx for the tip anyways, and by the way its going trough my mind all the time if i should make some mods to the engine. But as always a matter of money.

THanx again.


R1: abt the Fcon Vpro. You mean i should loose the Airflow meters and buy a V-pro instrad ? But Vpro is an ECU, should i buy that instead of the Power FC ?

Thanx
 

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add a sump extension and oil cooler, a billet bottom pulley if you go over the standard rev limit. and while your at it i'd say add forged pistons.... I've done over 15k miles at 450bhp at the wheels, numerous RWYB and a few track days with no problems. I'm also running Jun cams and HKS vernier pulleys, Fcon Vpro, HKS Knock amp and 5 wire lambda. Nismo bearings and valve springs, two fuel pumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As i said in the start thread. I want to run on stock bottom end.
Why the sump extention ?


Can someone tell me, cause i do not know that mutch about this.
Why do i need a oil cooler. I wont be running the car on track. Its a pure street car. Maby 1 event a year on the track, but it wont be goning that hard.

Isint a IC a some better choice then ?
And i have done some reserch about the Tripple exedy clutch, and what ive heard its relly overkill to put it in my machine cause its only a street car. What i know of the clutch is for drag huh ?

Best regards //M
 

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The sump extension will allow you to hold more oil. Say roughly around 9-10 litres in total. This is better if you intend to do track days, or use it hard i guess, as with the g-forces involved, you may suffer oil starvation or surge with having a stock sump which holds around 5-6 litres in total.

Believe me you'll need an oil cooler, even if you intend to only use it as a street car, and it is recommended 100% by me personally. Oil temps will rise significantly when pushing it hard even with street use.

I would put the oil cooler above the uprated intercooler in priority stakes IMO
 

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Ill just throw in my 2 cents here.
A mate of mine got brought in a 95 R33 GTR a few years ago. We went to the track, the car was bog stock (IE still had the boost restrictor in) and within about 5 laps oil temps were getting above 110 degrees.
 
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