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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok this isnt super thorough or anything and doing this is extremely simple. But ive learned a couple tricks to make things easier for myself so it might help you guys. i did tyhgis today at work again so i just snapped a few pics

For tools this is what i like to have
-PB blaster (something similar)
-3/8 drive 14mm swivel socket
-3/8 to 1/2 adapter
-Long 1/2 extension (mine is like 24inches or so)
-Large 1/2 ratcheting breaker bar
-16in 3/8 extension
-14mm box end wrench
-7/8 wrench
-slim o2 sensor socket (7/8)
-12mm box wrench



3/8 ext.



first start off under the hood, located the connectors for the primary o2 sensors, they can be found at the back of each valve cover.....
pull them off their tab (they slide off) and disconnect them



now lift the car and remove the rear undertray..... if you cant handle this on your own you shouldnt be reading this.

spray down the nuts u can with pb blast.
remove the midpipe
remove the braket holding the bottom of the DP's
unplug the rear o2 sensors

start with the left DP it makes things easier later.
the lowest nut it too close to the cat to get the swivel on so man up and get it loose with a hand wrench




now work your way around the DP with the 1/2in ext and 14mm swivel\



the left dp nut to the right by the bellhousing is kinda hard to see but if u look straight up from under the bellhousing you can see and finagle the swivel on





Now unbolt the 4 12mm nuts on the middle of the front prop shaft and let it hang (need to do this for right cat to clear its way out)





start working your way around the right cat/dp with the same 1/2in ext and 14mm swivel setup.....



now when you get to the top nut on the right DP its practically impossible to see or get a hand on..... this is why i take the left dp out 1st.... from here you can reach up over the bellhousing from the left side and actually get a hand on the top nut barely..... now you can actually guide the swivel on... this is where i use the 3/8 extension with the adapter at the ratchet instead of at the swivel cuz its really tight here. (i also use the 3/8 ext on the top right nut on the right dp as well)

here is an example of reaching over with the dp out so you can see......



i honestly cant tell you how much time i had wasted trying to blindly unbolt that top nut with both dp's in before this "trick"



soak the o2's with PB blast and be careful not to strip their threads... it happens occasionally
you can use the open end 7/8 wrench to get all but the primary left side o2.... this has a lil heat sheild on it and requires a thin-wall o2 sensor socket



make sure the o2s go back in the same spot they came from

install is the opposite of removal except much easier and roomier now tihout the big bulky cats in your way

a good trick for the primary o2 connectors is to drop a string down and tie it to the connector and pull it up the correct routing
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I should probably take this down since the community mods have their heads up their asses
I've had my posts cut and FS thread shut down twice like I don't contribute to the community
What is this? Zilvia?? Piss off....
 

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I should probably take this down since the community mods have their heads up their asses
I've had my posts cut and FS thread shut down twice like I don't contribute to the community
What is this? Zilvia?? Piss off....

With post like this I would ban you plain and simple.....:banned:

Toni explained In the scamming thread why your posts where cut back....
 

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I should probably take this down since the community mods have their heads up their asses
Err, no we haven't got our heads up our asses, this is a good thread and if you'd stuck with information like this then your for sale thread would've stayed. I highlighted the FS thread yesterday for Toni to deal with as she'd binned the majority of your spam. It isn't us that have our heads up our asses.

I've had my posts cut and FS thread shut down twice like I don't contribute to the community
A small contiribution thus far and the first FS thread was at way less than 50 posts, that's why it got canned.

What is this? Zilvia?? Piss off....
Don't know what Zilvia is but regards the piss off comment, it's not really necessary. Is there anything else you'd like to comment on?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
zilvia.net = holier than thou attitude..... i admit spamming to hit 50 the 1st time but i was cleared out and got to 50 legit with my bs removed than got trimmed AGAIN. even trimmerd out posts that made the 1st cut.... not to mention ive been on a year im not some scammer coming in looking to take advantage of people.....

i literally took a good amount of time taking pics while doing this and putting a write up for one individual on here that could've used it and knew more could as well..... im obviously no a$$hole.... but sure felt like one after getting canned twice
 

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If you put up a for sale thread the moment you hit 50, twice, it's no surprise really is it. Put your teddies back in the pram and give it another few and nobody needs to get upset again.:thumbsup:

Though I am curious, are you a trader? It's just that you mention 'we' in another thread in regards to R35s. Enquiring minds need to know.
 

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OK fine (I've removed the trade link btw).:thumbsup:
 

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i literally took a good amount of time taking pics while doing this and putting a write up for one individual on here that could've used it and knew more could as well..... im obviously no a$$hole.... but sure felt like one after getting canned twice
Hi Mate. I think the thread was put up originally for my benifit, for that I thank you very much and I'd like to thank you for taking the time to do it, I'm not aware of the other issues regarding your threads being cut but I hope you can sort it out and stay on here as I beleive your contribution is useful, I think the mods are rightly anxious to keep spamming to a minimum as it can wreck a forum but I hope you can sort out your issues with them and stay on here with us.:thumbsup:
 

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Downpipes

Thanks for this excellant article on how to replace down pipes. just noticed that no heat shields on the replacement down pipes. would this cause a heat problem . also who supplied the new downpipes.
 

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Thanks for this excellant article on how to replace down pipes. just noticed that no heat shields on the replacement down pipes. would this cause a heat problem . also who supplied the new downpipes.
Best to just heat wrap them or alternatively get them coated
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ceramic coating is best, but we haven't have any heat issues as yet like this. The stock Downpipes have converters in them and those heat up to insane temperatures.... MUCH MUCH higher than a pipe in the same location with nothing in it. That is why the majority of the heat shielding is on the cats.

these are AMS downpipes. by far the BEST quality ive seen yet..... no contest
 

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Shall be attempting this, as soon as I get my down pipes back, from having ceramic coating.

Looks a good guide and gives me s fair idea.

Thanks
 

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Thanks for the guide.

Helped me out but should have come with a "attempt with caution" warning...ha ha.

The non visible nuts were a nightmare to say the least.

Thankfully I have access to a ramp, and was able to soak all bolts/nuts with WD40, many times over a 24 hour period prior to removal.

Also I used an angled ring rachet spanner on the drivers side top bolt.

Total time taken from start to finish, to fit Miltek downpipes and Miltek Y pipe.
Just over 3 hours

Sounds amazing.
 

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Cracking post mate!! Its great to have these little tips as well.

I'll be having a crack at this tomorrow. BTW, the workshop manual wants you to take the friggin engine out to remove the down pipes............

Trav
 

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Done!! Tiny bit of a mare, but got there in the end. Took just under the 5 hours to take the Y pipe, exhaust system and cats of then exhaust wrap and fit the GTC down pipes.

GTC 90mm Y pipe and Titan to follow.....
 
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