GTR Forum banner

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,925 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I have been eyeing up R35's recently now that are available for a price I can afford, what I want to ask is how reliable is a stock R35?

I have had a R32 in the past and reliability wise it was the worst car I have ever owned, maybe with the exception of a metro turbo.

Performance wise it was awesome obviously.

I have remained on the skyline forums since that time and have seen so many threads about blown engines I very much doubt I would even think about owning another RB26 again.

So anyway, R35's, bullshit and rose tinted glasses aside what is the reliability like?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,643 Posts
Alot of people have transmission issues, including myself, first month was spent back at Middlehurst, repaired, broke again, then replaced with a new box. But the transmission faults are easily corrected, so i would suggest finding one that has had the circlips, piston stoppers etc fitted to the transmission for peace of mind. Apart from this its solid and has not had a beat out of place.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,733 Posts
Hi,

I have been eyeing up R35's recently now that are available for a price I can afford, what I want to ask is how reliable is a stock R35?

I have had a R32 in the past and reliability wise it was the worst car I have ever owned, maybe with the exception of a metro turbo.

Performance wise it was awesome obviously.

I have remained on the skyline forums since that time and have seen so many threads about blown engines I very much doubt I would even think about owning another RB26 again.

So anyway, R35's, bullshit and rose tinted glasses aside what is the reliability like?
36,000 miles since new. Not missed a beat (famous last words) and now Stage 4 Tuned and runs (better) than stock and fuel economy around 24 MPG on a run.

Issues with Transmissions were mainly limited to a very few early (08-09) cars but MY10 onwards have, generally, been bomb proof unless tuning stupid big power builds and even then stripping gears which can be replaced.

Headlights on early cars blow but mostly should have been fixed and bell housing rattles on early cars are a £700 fix from Litchfield if out of warranty.

Mine is everyday car, shopping, Ikea and Central London driving. Buy a good second hand one (or new one/ex demo) from reliable tuner/NHPC etc for peace of mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
had mine 2.5 years now - no hassles really other than no NHPC or decent indie near me. 09 plate with 28k on the clock.

Couple of warranty fixes (stereo and alarm) but not needed bell housing etc.

The running cost for bakes, tyres, servicing, etc all add up though although you're probably used to it running an R32.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
MY10, 39K miles, no issues at all. As Rog says, get a MY10 car onwards if you can as these generally seem to be more reliable in the transmission department. The majority of the gearbox issues were imports and MY09 cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,485 Posts
Alot of people have transmission issues, including myself, first month was spent back at Middlehurst, repaired, broke again, then replaced with a new box. But the transmission faults are easily corrected, so i would suggest finding one that has had the circlips, piston stoppers etc fitted to the transmission for peace of mind. Apart from this its solid and has not had a beat out of place.
That's arsegravy.

Mine is stage 4, with downpipes. Serviced on the nose when needed and looked after.
Zero problems, and used almost daily. 10k miles a year ish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,925 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok thanks for that, I know there were early problems with the use of launch control killing the transmission..Is the transmission now actually up to this feature being used now and again on 10+ models?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,268 Posts
like Rog said they are reliable-ish. I had a R33 and it required a lot more maintenance than the R35. The R35's are a lot newer car but things do go. The gearbox issues are likely due to some swaf in the oil and a pre-emptive clean of the solenoids and TM oil changes should stop most. I have one of the early JDM cars imported in 2008 and so far its still on the first TM.

The bell housing will go but tuners (Litchfield) offer a uprated version that fixes the issue

there is a lot less tuners who can do R35 as well as the older Skyline GTR's are now lower tech. Parts and consumables like tyres are more expensive than the average R32 so depends on the miles but it will cost you but nothing like any other supercar

if you get the tuning or carbon bug it will cost more again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,643 Posts
Ok thanks for that, I know there were early problems with the use of launch control killing the transmission..Is the transmission now actually up to this feature being used now and again on 10+ models?
Mine is a early MY10 model FYI

But like others have said, its limited, but 9 times out of ten its an easy fix, solenoid clean, clips etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
Ok thanks for that, I know there were early problems with the use of launch control killing the transmission..Is the transmission now actually up to this feature being used now and again on 10+ models?
Its not the tans that couldn't handle the launch control (except for 09 or old imports) But it was how the car launched in the first place. LC1 and LC2 back then was way to harsh on the car with violent launches.. Things like wheel-hop would damage the diff or trans apparently..

Driving too hard when cars trans is too cold also ended up in transmission problems..

Now with the new software and slightly upgraded gearboxes, you should be able to launch all you want as long as you watch your temps and do it in the right places.. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
Mine is a 10 plate, hasnt missed a beat. There is a bell housing noise with my car. But It isnt as big an issue as its made out to be in my opinion. As long as it is monitored for play in the bearing and it doesnt progressively get worse its not an issue. Provided it isnt excessive in the first place. I think in general they are very reliable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
Mine's a 12 plate, reason I bought it was because I wanted hyper performance AND reliability, and not have to mollycoddle and pamper it like I would a lambo or ferrari. I use it every day and it never misses a beat, have covered 22k miles now. The only (expected) problem was dealt with at the 9k service and that was a new bellhousing, but it rattled just the same after lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
924 Posts
59 plate. Had it 2 years and no major issues.

1 leaky shock replaced under warranty. Going to get Litchfields to do the gearbox sump clean, piston caps and magnets as a precausion but no belhousing rattle and that's the original I'm told.

Saying that, I have an "L" reg 300zxtt and that is bullet proof and has never failed an MOT in 10 years, never stopped, or failed to start, so I think Nissan reliabily on the whole is good. (headlamps etc all fixable cheaply if required)

I wouldn't worry about it, just service it as it should be done and don't over abuse.

There are some good well looked after cars on here.

Good luck with the search.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,519 Posts
MY2010 Oct done 18k miles with no issues most of that running 600 -750 bhp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
There appears to be a lot of confusion around the gearbox issues - 2012 onwards the transmission has the solenoid actuator metal caps fitted and possibly a re-profiled shift fork, so that's all models up to 2011 affected.
Even then, the same clean up of solenoids and sump magnets to prevent incorrect selection/shift fork position occurring is likely required preventative maintenance and I'd recommend it's done by one of the specialists.
The early Japanese imports had additional issues with clutch seals and internal actuator control module 'o' rings.

So the list is (please append any I've omitted):
gearbox (additional maintenance)
bellhousing (Litchfield replacement)
brakes - cracked front disks or cracked pads (aftermarket replacement)
tyres - uneven wear
suspension geometry (ensure alignment completed as per special service schedule)
leaky shock absorbers (warranty)
headlights - condensation/failure (warranty)
steering lock recall (warranty)
transmission and driveshaft oil seals - known issue, they weep transmission fluid (warranty, lol use a specialist!)
head unit/MFD and dash LED's (warranty)

battery (pre 2010 had too low a capacity and runs flat very quickly, which in turn wrecks that battery)
interior squeaks & rattles
Undertray bolts missing/seized or plastic fixing clips broken or missing
Check the thin vertical metal stays in the front bumper - if they are bent it's easy to identify if the bumper/front lip has had a knock
Valve caps can be removed & TPMS works (valve service kit)
Alloys for damage/cracks (warranty)

MOT
Check service history with the dealer(s) that has maintained the car. Check service intervals and ensure they correspond to the recommendations, especially with regard to mileage and if tracked

Ensure the driveline fluids were replaced at the correct interval
stall starts (launches) and oil temperature history (EcuTek cable or Consult III)

Reliability is good when the car is properly maintained, also had mine two years and it's been a pleasure.
As per above there are lots of areas to improve on (at cost); where Nissan engineered to a minimal budget it has started to show up.

Protegimus
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,870 Posts
There appears to be a lot of confusion around the gearbox issues - 2012 onwards the transmission has the solenoid actuator metal caps fitted and possibly a re-profiled shift fork, so that's all models up to 2011 affected.
Even then, the same clean up of solenoids and sump magnets to prevent incorrect selection/shift fork position occurring is likely required preventative maintenance and I'd recommend it's done by one of the specialists.
The early Japanese imports had additional issues with clutch seals and internal actuator control module 'o' rings.

So the list is (please append any I've omitted):
gearbox (additional maintenance)
bellhousing (Litchfield replacement)
brakes - cracked front disks or cracked pads (aftermarket replacement)
tyres - uneven wear
suspension geometry (ensure alignment completed as per special service schedule)
leaky shock absorbers (warranty)
headlights - condensation/failure (warranty)
steering lock recall (warranty)
transmission and driveshaft oil seals - known issue, they weep transmission fluid (warranty, lol use a specialist!)
head unit/MFD and dash LED's (warranty)

battery (pre 2010 had too low a capacity and runs flat very quickly, which in turn wrecks that battery)
interior squeaks & rattles
Undertray bolts missing/seized or plastic fixing clips broken or missing
Check the thin vertical metal stays in the front bumper - if they are bent it's easy to identify if the bumper/front lip has had a knock
Valve caps can be removed & TPMS works (valve service kit)
Alloys for damage/cracks (warranty)

MOT
Check service history with the dealer(s) that has maintained the car. Check service intervals and ensure they correspond to the recommendations, especially with regard to mileage and if tracked

Ensure the driveline fluids were replaced at the correct interval
stall starts (launches) and oil temperature history (EcuTek cable or Consult III)

Reliability is good when the car is properly maintained, also had mine two years and it's been a pleasure.
As per above there are lots of areas to improve on (at cost); where Nissan engineered to a minimal budget it has started to show up.

Protegimus
Thanks good info :thumbsup:
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top