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Yes next time 8374 ftw :)
There’s hardly any spool difference between the 83 and the 91 tbh. But an 83?would be savage for track either way.
 

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Yes I have seen plots online comparing 6466 and 6266 and the response looks very similar. I guess that is expected with the same hot side.



I have had my 6266 gen 2 twin scroll on two engines, a 2.7 with a fully ported head and mild cams and a 2.8 with a lightly ported head and mild cams. Based on dyno plots you can find here and elsewhere online, I was hoping for at least -5 type response with more up top. Both engines made similar power, 1.5bar ~600hp at rear hubs, and over 500hp rear hubs at 1.1bar but with typical "big single" response (1bar at 4250rpm on the Dyno). Hilarious to drive and savagely fast but not 100% what I was after, on a dedicated track car without a sequential I'd trade 10% less up top for 500rpm wider power band. 6062 might fit that bill.


Thanks Alex, that is really interesting.

Can I ask what lift your cams are and is the rest of your inlet and throttle body(s) stock?


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Good thread this.

Don't know much on precision tubs but I'm guessing 6266 is like a 3582 and 6062 is like gen2 3076r?

I would totally keep that turbo personally. You can swap to 62 series and get more power pretty easily assuming injectors and fueling are ok.

some cams and pulleys to dial back the cams may help?

But otherwise tackle things like your brakes if they haven't been done? I've got k sport 356mm on mine and i can stop so late it's crazy. Really does make the car feel faster.

I was going to go top mount myself but decided to keep it twins just for gtr heritage.

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If I were to go for a precision I***8217;d be looking at the 6870. Awesome turbo and very versatile.
 

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Yes I have seen plots online comparing 6466 and 6266 and the response looks very similar. I guess that is expected with the same hot side.

I have had my 6266 gen 2 twin scroll on two engines, a 2.7 with a fully ported head and mild cams and a 2.8 with a lightly ported head and mild cams. Based on dyno plots you can find here and elsewhere online, I was hoping for at least -5 type response with more up top. Both engines made similar power, 1.5bar ~600hp at rear hubs, and over 500hp rear hubs at 1.1bar but with typical "big single" response (1bar at 4250rpm on the Dyno). Hilarious to drive and savagely fast but not 100% what I was after, on a dedicated track car without a sequential I'd trade 10% less up top for 500rpm wider power band. 6062 might fit that bill.

Hi mate, have you changed the manifold yet?
Dan
 

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Good thread this.

Don't know much on precision tubs but I'm guessing 6266 is like a 3582 and 6062 is like gen2 3076r?

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Yes. The advantage as far as I understand it is that they are slightly more modern design so should have lower lag and can also be spec'd with a ceramic cartridge bearing that does not even require a water feed. So the plumbing is simple with just oil.

These things attracted me to one, and after hearing the feedback above the 6062 might be the one for me actually. :squintdan
 

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That's insane so oil cooled and still spins up like a ball bearing one. Turbos are getting nuts now
Yes. The advantage as far as I understand it is that they are slightly more modern design so should have lower lag and can also be spec'd with a ceramic cartridge bearing that does not even require a water feed. So the plumbing is simple with just oil.

These things attracted me to one, and after hearing the feedback above the 6062 might be the one for me actually. :squintdan
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That's insane so oil cooled and still spins up like a ball bearing one. Turbos are getting nuts now

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They sure are mate. I think a lot of the USA RnD work is being pushed by their drag racing which is such a big money business.

Reading up, I am even tempted to go for a PTE 5862 which is still rated to 640hp and must be super low lag on an RB26 as they are being used on stock Evos.

Hope this is not too off topic for the OP.
 

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As I am sure you probably know.... but remember the drivetrain as you start thinking about your build. These boxes are pretty tough but more power is going to mean more wear and tear in that area. Just something to keep in mind.

You're at a pretty good power level for the street though. I usually dial it down and drive around at 1.5 bar (probably ~500awhp) on the street. Rarely do I go higher than that on the street though. Just not a good idea.

Lets be honest though... as a car guy with a GTR, if your just THINKING about wanting more HP.... We all know how its going to work out.

Just make sure whatever route you take (or dont) to really do the research first. lots of ways to get there so find what works best for your application.
 

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I'd recommend a rebuild now than when you have failure.. it will just cost you lots more and car would be off road for longer due to perhaps parts availability.

A good forged bottom end for more power later.

Just replace all bearings and most importantly.. a good make oil pump.
Spun shells or Low Oil Pressure are the culprit to bottom end problems

Speak to a few engine builders and have a goal set in mind.

P.s mileage isn't a factor here as I know of 30k RBs bottom end fail

Cranks and decent blocks are getting rare and pricey.. so rather than imminent failure and damage to the main items... Have it done for peace of mind.

Umar
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I’ve had my set up for near two years, not sure on the miles but I do any time I can and it’s been very reliable.
 
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