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RB Unit Preference


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Discussion Starter #1
I've been meaning to try and make a comprehensive comparison in regards to the RB26, a stroked RB28, and a RB30.

Now each have their pros, cons, sweet spots, and most suitable application.

I want to try to obtain more context and information into the more technical side of these setups. Mostly out of curiosity but also to help with some potential choices in the near future for my build (or builds at this rate). I am also aware of these unites being used in extreme HP applications, this is more of a reasonable target. Say anywhere from 550 to 900 at the wheels, to help get some point of power/torque reference

Opinions are encouraged so long as they are conductive and help give greater incite to this subject.

Now from what I've gathered, this is the following general consensus.

[RB26]
-Convenient
-Cost Effective in most applications
-Good up to 550-600hp on stock internals
-Can be laggy with large turbo/boost applications.
-Structurally built to withstand most abuse (within reason)

[RB28]
-More optimal power curve
-Better/improved response in low/mid range
-Costs is higher by 4-7k depending.
-Usable with stock block, making it somewhat convenient in that aspect.
-Structurally built to withstand most abuse as above

[RB30]
-Best low/mid range out of the three
-Lower RPM's needed, thus improving parts life
-Costs can vary, usually must be acquired through broker in the states, not as convenient in that aspect.
-Requires adapter for AWD applications. Is heaviest out of the three
-Older block, structural integrity is of grater concern in more situations (AWD especially).

Now this isn't really a PRO/CON that I'm listing, more of a "Generally accepted facts" if you will. I understand that I can be (and expect to be wrong) on a few of these, hence bringing up this entire discussion.

For instance, I do know that price wise, the RB30 and a Stroked RB26 are similar in price point. However if we were to simply look at it from a Price per liter perspective, the RB30 would be a more viable option. This is the sort of thing I wish to address (examples of this will be linked below)

If possible, what I'd like to achieve is a general "this is the deal with these" along with Pro/cons if possible, however the latter isn't all too necessary, but no less helpful. Along with that, if information provided in regards to what's needed in order to make each unit achieve the 'general goal' above, that too would also be helpful (again not needed, its mostly for the purpose of context)

Thank you.

P.S. A poll will be provided for personal preference of the three units above, again this is for the sake of context.

Links- (take this comparason with a grain of salt)
RB26 Stroker kit: Nitto Performance Engineering Stroker Kit (I-Beam Rods) RB26 2.8L - Raw Brokerage
RB30 w/26 head: Raw Brokerage Pro Built Short Block Stage 1 - RB30DET 700hp - Raw Brokerage
 

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Just an observation but if the min hp is 550atw you have effectively removed a couple of "your advatages" of the rb26 option

Also I think you need to narrow your aimed for power band and budget quite a bit to get meaningful answers as there are differences between the make of the stroker kits and with an rb30 there are different ways to go.

All I can say is I dont know anyone who has gone back from an RB30 to a smaller motor - so if you are looking at nearer 900 than 550 and budget isnt a consideration surely its a no brainer.
 

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It all depends by what you mean by each definition. RB26 can be a standard engine or it can be a unit with a fancy block, billet crank, posh pistons and rods blah blah blah.

Without any other information the only difference between an RB26 and an RB28 is that the 28 will have a longer throw crank.

With regards to RB30s they can be achieved with RB30 blocks or with various stroker options and spacer plates (see OSG30 and OD Engines in Aus). or even with custom ally blocks. Also worth considering that the RB30 blocks can then be stroked into RB32/33/34 for yet more capacity.

The big attraction to the RB26 is that it's already in your car (if you have a GTR). As cost is almost always a factor the 26 options is usually the cheapest.

Once you get into RB30s, particularly those with RB30 blocks there are a millions shades of grey. The simple fact is that they will typically require a fair bit of work to make them work in a GTR. Maybe you can do the work but if not you'll have to pay someone else to do it and thus the question of if the money spend is worth the performance gain. That's a choice you have to make and will completely depend on your situation.

If I had unlimited money an ally block running 3,400cc, V-Cam and a worked head would be lovely. Until Bill Gates decides to leave his fortune to me I suspect that that will just be staying a dream...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It all depends by what you mean by each definition. RB26 can be a standard engine or it can be a unit with a fancy block, billet crank, posh pistons and rods blah blah blah.

Without any other information the only difference between an RB26 and an RB28 is that the 28 will have a longer throw crank.

With regards to RB30s they can be achieved with RB30 blocks or with various stroker options and spacer plates (see OSG30 and OD Engines in Aus). or even with custom ally blocks. Also worth considering that the RB30 blocks can then be stroked into RB32/33/34 for yet more capacity.

The big attraction to the RB26 is that it's already in your car (if you have a GTR). As cost is almost always a factor the 26 options is usually the cheapest.

Once you get into RB30s, particularly those with RB30 blocks there are a millions shades of grey. The simple fact is that they will typically require a fair bit of work to make them work in a GTR. Maybe you can do the work but if not you'll have to pay someone else to do it and thus the question of if the money spend is worth the performance gain. That's a choice you have to make and will completely depend on your situation.

If I had unlimited money an ally block running 3,400cc, V-Cam and a worked head would be lovely. Until Bill Gates decides to leave his fortune to me I suspect that that will just be staying a dream...
To be honest, I was not aware that spacer plates/sleeves could be used to increase the throw for an RB26 block. I feel most enlightened by this.
 

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The downside to RB30 derivatives is that the underbonnet envelope is altered. 2.8 is a nice compromise on capacity where everything bolts up on the right place.

Besides,power isn't a problem with RB's, gearboxes to take it are.
I'm with Lightspeed on this one. With all the messing around on getting an Australian RB30 into a R32 lot of hacking about is needed, Sump plates and various other adjustments and modifications. A 2.8 Stroker is a great way to increase torque and off boost response but the extra capacity will help spool up turbos faster. It fits in the same way as the 2.6.

Some people chase absolute power and forget about everything else. If you looking for drag power 1400+hp then go ahead and fill your boots.. go for an RB3x
 

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I'm with Lightspeed on this one. With all the messing around on getting an Australian RB30 into a R32 lot of hacking about is needed, Sump plates and various other adjustments and modifications.
MMMm, most people with an RB30 buy it built and usually have it fitted for them. Therefore, for the customer there is no more work than buying any other engine configuration.
 

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Why not just go RB26 with V-Cam to pull up the low to mid range torque whilst still retaining the top end rev happy nature of the 2.6?

You also get a lump that ticks over like a standard RB (not cammy and lumpy) with strong mid-range and fireworks at the top end.

This option will ultimately only run to 550-600bhp max (safely) but if your standard RB26 is in good nick (doesn't require a rebuild) then it is a cost effective option.

Having owned 750+bhp OSG RB30 (in an R34) and now a standard spec (fully rebuilt though) RB26 with 2860-7's and V-Cam pushing circa 540bhp I speak from experience.
 

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I'm with Lightspeed on this one. With all the messing around on getting an Australian RB30 into a R32 lot of hacking about is needed, Sump plates and various other adjustments and modifications. A 2.8 Stroker is a great way to increase torque and off boost response but the extra capacity will help spool up turbos faster. It fits in the same way as the 2.6.

Some people chase absolute power and forget about everything else. If you looking for drag power 1400+hp then go ahead and fill your boots.. go for an RB3x
This is why I am quite a fan of the RB28.
Does make a good road car, even tuned up to 600+bhp.
And it all looks like Nissan intended, on normally located turbos.
 

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MMMm, most people with an RB30 buy it built and usually have it fitted for them. Therefore, for the customer there is no more work than buying any other engine configuration.
I wouldn't want a run of the mill RB30 if ever I was to get one, so would do so myself, but with the amount of hacking to get it to fit an R32 it doesn't interest me in the slightest. I don't care about the extra 200cc I don't chase big numbers or want a torque monster. :wavey:
 

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MMMm, most people with an RB30 buy it built and usually have it fitted for them. Therefore, for the customer there is no more work than buying any other engine configuration.
Please correct me if I'm wrong (given you've been there) but I think the RB30 block will fit into the 33 and 34 without trouble but requires the bonnet to be trimmed to fit in a 32 or is it possible to mount it in the 32 without cutting?
 

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Please correct me if I'm wrong (given you've been there) but I think the RB30 block will fit into the 33 and 34 without trouble but requires the bonnet to be trimmed to fit in a 32 or is it possible to mount it in the 32 without cutting?
It is possible to mount the engine so it doesn't foul the R32 bonnet. It's the cam pulley cover that touches using factory engine mounts.
 

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Dream engine build for me would be VCam (step 2 or pro) + 28 + EFR + Ebooster + Motec ECU + supporting mods.
From my opinion, this blends the balance of 200cc's down low with newer tech designed to make for a nice smooth power curve to ensure out of corner stability.

It's important to note that my dream build also includes a lot of carbon fibre parts to help shrink weight, a copious amount of footwork and of course upgraded transmission components too - as building a car is about building a car, not just an engine! :)

Thing is; how i drive my car on the street, or the track or where-ever is more than likely different to how YOU drive in those places/scenarios, so we'll require different things from our engines and mods.
Add to that; some people will be happy to do a single swap some feel they must retain the twins. Some will go to bigger capacity to look for extra Torque, some will opt for cam work...

It's a very VERY broad question man and to reiterate, even people looking for the same power will do things in different ways - hence why i get weird looks from my friends when talking about a vcam upgrade when in their mind i should just do a single swap and have done with it! :)

Hope this helps somehow and you get the information you're after!
 

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Thought I'd throw my 2hp on here.. I would go for the 28 if I had the money.. as stated midrange and wotnot would be greatly improved and turbos fit without any hassles.

I have the 26.. fully forged.. -5 turbos.. it was good and pulled but sluggish up until 4500 if not a little later if I'm honest.
I had ponscams and pulleys stuck in.. head sorted and advanced 10 deg.. the pull is noticeably improved in the lower and mid rpm. It's a touch lumpier but still super good to drive. I think for a 26 this is a good way to go if the 28 money can't be found.

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Every time I mention the words "RB" and "torque" in the same sentence, my shop's owner starts talking about 2JZ swaps and I stop paying attention. You do have to wonder though, compared to stuff like building a 30 block with a 26 head on it or doing forged internals/vcam/stroker crank on a 26, at what point does a 2JZ become the more cost-effective option.
 

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Every time I mention the words "RB" and "torque" in the same sentence, my shop's owner starts talking about 2JZ swaps and I stop paying attention. You do have to wonder though, compared to stuff like building a 30 block with a 26 head on it or doing forged internals/vcam/stroker crank on a 26, at what point does a 2JZ become the more cost-effective option.
V true. My mate has a 1jz in his 32gtst with a 3582 on it. Makes about 700 and takes off like a scalded rat. Revs to 9k too with the valvetrain work. He's running a syvecs too so dunno if that offset any potential savings lol.
Let's be honest tho a 2jz engine is pretty much unbeatable.. such an incredible engine.

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It definitely depends on what you want ftom your car and what you intended to do with it.
I’m going 2.8 and vcam as I think this is a great all round set up for what I want.
I love the idea of a Rb30/rb32 but think for the track having a slightly heavier engine and having a higher Center of gravity for a track car is not ideal (particularly in a already front heavy R32gtr.
I know to most people including myself you’d probably never notice this but you’d also probably not notice the better low down torque at a track when most of the time you are keeping the revs up.
I’d also like to say that if you’ve not drive a RB26 with a modern single (small precision/small Borg Warner) you may decide that you don’t need a increase in capacity as they are so responsive and quick on boost.
I have a precision 6266 gen 2 on a RB26 and I’m well happy with low down power.
I’m only going 2.8 because I absolutely love Skyline’s and enjoy the experience of trying to make them as ultimate as I can, it’s a passion/obsession for me and I’m sure many others on here.
 

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It definitely depends on what you want ftom your car and what you intended to do with it.
I’m going 2.8 and vcam as I think this is a great all round set up for what I want.
I love the idea of a Rb30/rb32 but think for the track having a slightly heavier engine and having a higher Center of gravity for a track car is not ideal (particularly in a already front heavy R32gtr.
I know to most people including myself you’d probably never notice this but you’d also probably not notice the better low down torque at a track when most of the time you are keeping the revs up.
I’d also like to say that if you’ve not drive a RB26 with a modern single (small precision/small Borg Warner) you may decide that you don’t need a increase in capacity as they are so responsive and quick on boost.
I have a precision 6266 gen 2 on a RB26 and I’m well happy with low down power.
I’m only going 2.8 because I absolutely love Skyline’s and enjoy the experience of trying to make them as ultimate as I can, it’s a passion/obsession for me and I’m sure many others on here.
I’d also be keen to know exactly how much heavier and higher the Rb30 is.
Also taking all this into consideration I’d say as a road car/ traffic light hero you can’t beat a rb30
 

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I’d also be keen to know exactly how much heavier and higher the Rb30 is.
Also taking all this into consideration I’d say as a road car/ traffic light hero you can’t beat a rb30
I'd actually like to see how an rb30 set up and a 2.8 with vcam perform in such a situation.. thatd be a good video :)

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