GTR Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I'm fitting AP 6 pots to my 33 at the weekend and wondered if anybody has attempted to increase the braking efficiency of the rears in anyway?

The only reason I ask is that my rear pads (DS2000) have been in for the best part fo 18 months now and they still have loads of 'meat' on them so I guess that they don't really add that much to the overall braking of the car.

TIA.

Peter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,694 Posts
Funny that!

Peter after our chat yesterday I enquired about my coming AP 6 pot kit which I have requested be shod with FERODO DS2000 pads, I asked as to what I should us on the rears and was told again DS2000's.

I suppose most weight is to the front (70%) like my old Subaru and the 2 pot rear calipers with DS2000 pads will do the job?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Rear end.

I suppose so Ian but having done about 7 or 8 track days and 8k miles with the same set of pads, I still reckon they could be made to be more effective and help the fronts out a bit more. I would imagine that the ABS system may be a problem with any mods so perhaps a more agressive pad (3000s or the new 2500s) may help a bit. :confused:

Peter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,570 Posts
Brake balance

Peter,

If your brakes were previously balanced, I would have thought that you should take some steps to increase the braking performance at the rear to compensate for the modifications at the front.

Brake bias is generaly to the front to keep things safe. I am sure that DS 3000's have got to be worth a try.

I occasionaly use them all round on my car and they don't leave alot of dust on the rear wheels.

Your first emergency stop will let you know if the rear is going to overtake you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Rear end.

Hi Hugh,

No, my brakes haven't been balanced in any way.

I see from Jamie M's post about his new 34 that he is getting the bias altered to suit his new rear brakes so it must be possible using a brake bias adjuster valve. I'll do some digging. :)

Peter.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
349 Posts
Guy's,

The trick is to increase the rolling circumference to the rears by replacing the disc's with specially made one's. 3000's on the back will need alot of heating up to be effective on the road. You can also modify the regulator to give more braking power to the rears.

It is done to most racing Skylines.

JM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,694 Posts
Is all this that necessary?

I am having the fronts changed to the highly recommended AP 6 pot with DS2000 pads. Are we saying that the rear brakes them-selves aren't very good, even though as said earlier in this post that most weight and braking is on the fronts?

I was having DS2000's put on the stock Brembo rears will this leave the car unbalanced in heavy braking? IThe car will be used for fast road (don't we all) and the odd track day every quarter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Rear end.

Ian,

I guess that the rear is set up to work with the stock callipers and pads so as not to out brake the fronts hence maintaining stability under braking. If you increase the front brake efficiency, as we are, the rears can then afford to do some more work to increase overall braking. I guess whatever you did with the stock rears, you'd never outdo a set of larger APs on the front but at the same time you wouldn't want to overstress the rears and cause problems there, i.e. overheating, etc.

As Jamie says, I suppose the ideal solution is to increase the size of the rears and callipers and balance the whole set up so the car is still stable. All I wanted to do was up the rear brake's work rate as, from the wear rate of the pads, they hardly seem to be doing anything at moment.

Peter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,415 Posts
BRAKES

Peter, have you actually measured the front to rear pressure of your braking system yet if not it is a good place to start i mean physicaly measure it with a gauge as the front and rear brake pressure remains the same until the split point so they should be wearing under normal driving
Gary
GTART.CO.UK:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Gary.

No I haven't. What would I need to do this? By the split point, do you mean where the pipe splits to front and rear? I thought that each corner had separate lines....?

Peter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,415 Posts
split point

Peter
you will need 2 pressure gages on for the front and one for the back,what i mean by the split point is the point that the front and rear brake fluid pressure becomes different ie the pressures will remain the same front and rear until a specific pressure point of the fluid is reached then the pressure will reduce by a set ratio to the rear and this ratio will be maintained until full fluid pressure is reached.
Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
997 Posts
Big Brakes on rear.

Those of you at Kemble a couple of weeks ago might have noticed the big rear brake conversion on Tim`s R33.I emailed him & he was very helpful.Maybe if he reads this Thread or one of you wish to email him then I`m sure he will post the reply he sent me.

Cheers Tim(SVS) by the way,

Henry:smokin:
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top