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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It appears that the No6 piston or piston ring has had enough so time for a rebuild :(

Engine to be stripped and checked shortly for extent of the damage.

For the rebuild would people agree the best bearing are ACL Race series?

Would ACL gasket set be OK too, or is there another set that is better and competitively priced?

Any well known forged pistons do or are some better for the RB26?

Early R32 so will get the bigger oil pump drive, but which oil pump? Standard OK? (Car fitted with an Accusump).

Presume oil to head restrictor should be fitted such as Tomei 1.5mm?

ARP studs throughout or anyone have another preferred make?

Any other suggesions of upgrades or changes gratefully received, but bear in mind that there is a tight budget.

Cheers,

Mark
 

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ACL race bearings are proven and a good price so is a good option

ACL gaskets are good, otherwise Cometis MLS gaskets are competitively priced and ive never had problems with them and ive used them alot.

Forged pistons can start a huge debate on their own, but a reputable brand shouldnt cause any issues.

definately get the oil pump drive, tomei pumps are good if you can afford one. considering you are on a tight budget, a standard or N1 pump should be fine, ive never had problems with them as long as a crank collar is fitted.

head restrictor should be installed 1.5mm

IMO arp studs are not really necessary except for rod bolts.DEFINATELY get ARP rod bolts. often this is the one thing people leave out which baffles me...

good luck with the rebuild hope its nothing worse than piston/rings :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input guys!

Still awaiting strip down, but as thought, no compression on No 6.

Once the scale of the damage is known, where best to get the parts, UK or overseas. Would anyone in the UK give a decent discount to supply gaskets, bearings, studs, pistons etc??

Cheers,
 

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Theres dozens of threads here already on how to do pretty much everything you would ever need to know.
Have you tried searching and reading ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh yes Glenn, printed off loads and spent hours.....been threatened with divorce!!

Just always seemed to be bits of specific info missing, but I think I have put enough of it together to satisfy me at to what will make a good, reliable 500bhp engine without spending on frivolities.

Re pricing for parts, I will just have to get quotes from suppliers etc around the world and see who comes up best once I know the extent of the damage umless anyon can suggest anyone who has done them a deal or any traderout there?

Cheers,
 

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Ok, i know how frustrating it is,
I built my engine on a very tight budget
IMHO
.5mm oversize arias or similar pistons they are all the same dont believe the hype
shot peined rods with arp 300zxtt rodbolts
I run standard acl bearings with std clearances
oil restrictor to the head
if you have the head off you could run an oil return line from the rear , back to the sump
I run a jun pump and would recommend an aftermarket one
the crank collar is a MUST DO
A brand new standard one would be fine or even run the one you took out , but have the clearnaces checked and have it crack tested, if it was mine and it didnt have a crank collar i would not reuse it regardless...its the one thing that you could really stuff the entire engine.
new standard valve springs
it will bery likely need guides as they all seem to after 50k or so milege

steel headgasket
oil cooler
done
oem gaskets are fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
To update-

No6 piston had a hole in the side, fortunately there was no further damage and the block cleaned up with a light hone.

The head was sent off for new bronze valve guide and the seats have been cut and oil drain holes bored out slightly.

Have now got Z32 AFMs
Oil Catch tank
New coil pack loom ordered.
N1 water pump
Cosworth race bearings turned up this morning with ARP rod bolts
Now waiting for forged pistons, gaskets, bigger oil pump drive & head restrictor, oil pump and some other bits & pieces.

Finally need to check fuel pump to see what's in there and get an uprated one if necessary.

Cheers,
 

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+1 on Tomei. I've broken everything else except the Tomei, which is supposedly unbreakable (they explicitly claim on their website that there isn't a single documented failure of their pump, pretty bold advertising). I also have an Accusump, as well as a Trust sump extension. Takes 9.5 liters of oil to fill my engine.

I used wicked expensive Power Enterprise bearings, and spun two of them. Bearings with coatings sized down to thousands of a millimeter - waste of time and money. The second a bearing ever touches anything, the thickness changes. I went with Cosworth bearings, which are more or less the same as ACL. Something that can take a bit of a beating if necessary.

Lucky with the block! I've always had to change mine, except when all I had was bearing damage.

I personally really like HKS nickel-plated pistons. Those were the pistons in my engine while I was teaching myself to map a car, and early on I would ping and det here and there. When we took out the pistons and cleaned off the carbon, damned if they didn't look brand new. The nickel-plate is supposed to be more resistant to heat and preignition - the melting temp is a lot higher than aluminum. I'm sold on the things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Standard is 195Lph, so may go for the Power Enterprises 270lph in tank one sold in the GTRshop.

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, engine in and started today but.......................oil leak from where the accusump goes into the block, soooooooooo area been cleaned up and will be left overnight to establish exactly where the leak is, then off for an MOT next week if nothing else scuppers the plan!

Boy do I miss driving that car........

Cheers
 
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