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Discussion Starter #64
Thanks for showing us your work.
Question. How do you protect the new metal you weld, on the backside of this new panels, where you can’t prime.

How you protect it from rust again
Hello I have been using a range of Metaflux products, Sam Richardson recommended (does some impressive rust repairs and posts on Facebook)

This section I have used a weld through Metaflux rust neutraliser called rustisol on the car.

I then use on the back of the new material a weld through etch primer that is copper based.

If your interested I'll show some pictures of how I am protecting the inside of the sill before I weld it back together

Once I tidy this area up I will then apply an etch primer, then seal the seams followed by an underseal. I then also may lacquer the underseal to make it easy to clean
 

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Hello I have been using a range of Metaflux products, Sam Richardson recommended (does some impressive rust repairs and posts on Facebook)

This section I have used a weld through Metaflux rust neutraliser called rustisol on the car.

I then use on the back of the new material a weld through etch primer that is copper based.

If your interested I'll show some pictures of how I am protecting the inside of the sill before I weld it back together

Once I tidy this area up I will then apply an etch primer, then seal the seams followed by an underseal. I then also may lacquer the underseal to make it easy to clean
Thanks for the reply. Yes I’m interested in seen more. I have an r32 my self that I want to restore by Ive never going to that level of restoration, I’m trying to educate my self before I get started.
I enjoy watching Threads like this one , every step of the way and the final product it’s very encouraging, like with kevs restoration
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
A small update, I managed to get some paint on the floor




You can see it's shown up a small hole in the front floor pan I missed

Next I want to experiment with coating for the rear subframe so thought I would start by removing the rear bushes from the old subframe I won't be using.

According to the internet you can set fire to them with a blow torch, I found this didn't work and ended up placing a tray of old engine oil under them then setting light to that




The plan is to try having it zinc plated then powder coated so it should then be absolutely immaculate.
So if any is interested let me know and it could be finished in your choice of colour
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Thanks for the reply. Yes I’m interested in seen more. I have an r32 my self that I want to restore by Ive never going to that level of restoration, I’m trying to educate my self before I get started.
I enjoy watching Threads like this one , every step of the way and the final product it’s very encouraging, like with kevs restoration
Kev sets the benchmark with regard to restoration
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I visited the Autosports show and have decided the direction for the car in terms of racing.
Ideally I would like to have joined thundersaloons but the regulations have basically been rewritten to ban 4wd GTR's and you either now need to be 2wd or reduce capacity to 2.4l.

So instead I will race in the future classics series

https://www.classicsportscarclub.co.uk/future-classics

These rules are nice and open other than I have to compromise and now can't run a sequential gearbox and the silloet must remain stock ruling out any extreme aero.

It could also be a good stepping stone as they will allow me to run with Aero and a sequential in the open class, so at a later date I could upgrade the car and move to the top class.

But for now I am happy engine is basically free other than block and any suspension change including mounting points is free.

I need to relearn CAD for my next step......
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Parts from Japan !

Two brand new sills from Japan, now I know you can buy sill in the Uk much cheaper but they are effectively just a lower sill and you end up with a join, so for me and given how far apart the car was anyway I went for two full sills.





Part numbers for anyone who wants to do the same as the drivers is not easy to find the correct part number




Before fitting, I had some pin holes where a rust scab had sat on the bottom of the drivers side A pillar which I cut out and replaced






Finally trail fitted, starting to look like a car again

 

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Discussion Starter #71
How do you find where the welds are in order to remove the old parts and get the off?
The majority you can see once you have the paint or under seal off they look like sunken circle. If you can’t find them running a grinder with a flap wheel fitted often finds them. If that doesn’t work remove all you can then move the panel and they become more obvious as they sink more as you move the panel.

I’ll get some pictures when I do the other side
 

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The majority you can see once you have the paint or under seal off they look like sunken circle. If you can’t find them running a grinder with a flap wheel fitted often finds them. If that doesn’t work remove all you can then move the panel and they become more obvious as they sink more as you move the panel.

I’ll get some pictures when I do the other side
I see, cool thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Hi Dave,

Could I ask which supplier you used and if you don't mind, would you PM me how much the sills ended up costing all in, with postage and import fees please.
Hello Kev, I used rhdjapan as although the parts were more expensive than others the shipping made it cheaper overall, I'll look out the costs later but think it was around £300 a side all in.

Before ordering them again I would first ask Garage D to quote as they seem to be selling OEM parts cheaper than they can be imported
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Update 1

So I have migrated back to PC based updates as I find via phone so flakely.
Hopefully the forum owners will sort that out.

In the meantime I have found how to share a photo album from my phone to PC so here we go.

Basically before my break I had completed the drivers side apart from putting the outer sill back on. This was deliberate as the passenger side is much worse, hence needed the drivers side a a measurement reference and its all alot easier without the sill on.

Prior to turning the car around I also experimented with the wheels and tyres.
These are new Varrstoen 18x10.5 with 295 Toyo tyres

01d3a8a1058f90740848da256ee6a5da224cfb5b8b.jpg

01db63afdfd0cd2144a13a1d62a69453e2701fc05c.jpg

01f112cc34011ae3e35a3e490a54fe7abd678e8e19.jpg

I then fitted a wing and :smokin: instant motivation to finish

01ba28cc95cceda97b3c199d6696667e3e62d26239.jpg

01bf37f151f51b7c2b5d84ef048a78b1dde1633d19.jpg

:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #77
So one of the reasons I have been delayed is due to this

01d0eba84d39a2ff81a00e2c1d27305abc88d6d207.jpg

I bought it before the GTR but shipped it of the the bodyshop when the GTR arrived, unfortunately the bodyshop called in early summer to say it was finished.

I bought it back and parked it next to the GTR but then became reluctant to spray it in angle grinding dust from the GTR. So I pushed it back outside

The plan for this is a track day car until the R32 is finished, so I couldn't put it back together standard. To svae a long story it turned into

CD009 Gearbox with twinplate clutch
Fully forged SR20 with VE (Cam profile switching) head conversion

Unfortunately this to was delayed due to availability of pistons which have now been on back order with FRsport for 3 months

I also bought this (can you guess what it is?)

0144c64290c6c5bb1ffac80d6de99c418b1babac79.jpg

If anyone is interested in the build of either I can publish more pictures
 

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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
While I had the wheel, as I have been hinting at earlier I really don't like the front suspension especially the top suspension arm and the cast iron massively heavy bit that link the two.

All the suspension geometry is quickly also screwed by lowering the car, I believe this is why race R32's are so heavily complained about for understeer.

There are companies that make a bolt/weld on conversion such as below

0107443af948989885e8a55f9926e44bc3ff430997.jpg

01ba19550af92ea333d54a00aeb504e32302b9d1aa.jpg

However even by GTR standards they are expensive and to be honest I like the principle but not the execution of their final designs

You can see where this is going........
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
Before I get back to the rust, in preparation for making a new tubular front arms set up and possibly front subframe but that mite come later.

I made a jig to hold the hub where I wanted it at ride height on the car initially using standard parts. But then removing then

01d554366479cdc9a689f0bc216bdbc73e35dd088f.jpg

To eventually give a free floating hub as a starting point

019be19534b61559335dc896077f7eef7e3e2f4c70.jpg

01fd9d3594ab8e8d4ef0f10d864831eb137f4d54be.jpg

Then I bought some shiney bits to help correct roll centres, but I may also cut the hub up not decided yet.

01f41ce7ddb39ef616a9498cf07027fa1c61c9fd98.jpg

0142a6e58fdbc5bb12815588249b5b8c60a7622c1d.jpg
 
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