GTR Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,464 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've just rebuilt my engine now it needs running in and I've been told by a few people to disconnect the actuator from the waste gates so I can properly load the piston rings with out boosting as I need to drive it hard ish for the first 30 miles but others say leave them connected and drive it through the gears and use a little boost feathering the pedal till I reach 5k rpm but how can load the engine enough to seal the rings when my turbos come on boost at just over 3k rpm as I will need to ease off defeating the object really

Any help please ASAP I'm about ready to fire it up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,726 Posts
From one of my engine builders.
Running in

Start up : plugs out crank till u get oil pressure. Once oil p is made fit spark plugs n fire up. When started take revs upto 1700/2000 rpm until operating temp is achieved. Switch off leave to cool. When cool check water, oil, all hose n intercooler clips. Start again n hold revs high n go for a drive of 10/20 miles. Dump the oil/filter and repeat ever 100/150 miles for a minimum of 250 mls. First 100 mls no boost n try n stay in vacuum. After the first 100/150 u can show the engine signs of boost. Remember its boost not revs that hurt the engine. Do all the running in on the competition running in oil including the mapping.
Hope that helps bud

;)
Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Ive always ran an engine up to 90 degrees, let it cool down.
Then run it up to 90 degrees, and then run it hard.
Never had issues running engines in with lots of load and rpm.

If build correct it shold have no issues.
We did the same with S2000 (wtcc spec) cars ... never had any issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,989 Posts
An interesting question and one I'm struggling with at the moment. I was going to do the 'fast run in/loading the engine up to get the rings sealing' run in method which seems increasingly popular but some camshaft suppliers recommend running them in at high idle revs for a fairly lengthy period which is at odds to this.
For example this is Kelford Cams recommended cam run in procedure for new cams/followers :

The engine needs to start quickly without excessive cranking to insure immediate lubrication to the cam lobes.
Start the engine and immediately bring to 2,500 rpm. Timing should be adjusted, as closely as possible, to reduce excessive heat or load during break-in. Get the engine running fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed from 1500-3000 RPM in a slow acceleration/deceleration cycle. During this time, be sure to check for any leaks and check out any unusual noises. If something doesn't sound right, shut the engine off and check out the source of the noise. Upon restart, resume the high idle speed cycling. Continue the varying "break-in" speed for 20 - 30 minutes. This is necessary to provide proper lifter rotation to properly mate each lifter to its lobe. Should the engine need to be shut down for any reason, upon re-start it should be immediately brought back to 3000 rpm and the break-in continued for a total run time of 20 - 30 minutes.

Cheers

Stu
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,056 Posts
when I ran mine in I just ran it on wastegate spring pressue (1.1 bar) and tried to avoid low boost steady revs situtations. In effect I was always trying to keep the engine either in vacuum or on boost to keep the rings sealed to the cylinder for the first 500 miles (actually ended up being a bit more than that by the time I got it mapped) I never had any problems with it.

in the spirit of full disclosure all the time I was building the car I planned on doing the run it hard for the first 20 minutes then drop the oil, map it and away you go thing but totally bottled it when it came to it.

Simon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,464 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So will I have problems if I run it in with waste gates disconnected ? Or should I just reconnect the gates and run 1.1 bar
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,464 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
From one of my engine builders.
Running in

Start up : plugs out crank till u get oil pressure. Once oil p is made fit spark plugs n fire up. When started take revs upto 1700/2000 rpm until operating temp is achieved. Switch off leave to cool. When cool check water, oil, all hose n intercooler clips. Start again n hold revs high n go for a drive of 10/20 miles. Dump the oil/filter and repeat ever 100/150 miles for a minimum of 250 mls. First 100 mls no boost n try n stay in vacuum. After the first 100/150 u can show the engine signs of boost. Remember its boost not revs that hurt the engine. Do all the running in on the competition running in oil including the mapping.
Hope that helps bud

;)
Bob
Its got millers cro running in oil so that's that bit sorted but I need opinions on whether Its worth it if I run it in with the waste gates disconnected so I've no boost and will it affect my ecu as it's already been mapped prior to engine build as its what was running before it blew

P.S. I bought the car with broken ring lands on 3 and 6 as it over boosted on track when a boost pipe popped off the actuator... the ecu is fine and was running fine all fuelling correct timing etc nothing has changed mods wise it's exactly the same as it was before
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,056 Posts
I think so long as you avoid the same steady low load revs you should be okay, you don't want to run it to light and glaze the bores, but on running in oil you don't want to go banzai on it either.

if you are on the same cams you don't need to worry about running those in so it is really just about making sure you get a good seal with the rings and positive and negative pressure in the bores helps with that.

There are a million opinions on how to run in an engine - good luck with whatever way you go!

Simon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
893 Posts
My engine is currently being run in, its at 175 miles and requires another oil change. I had mine mapped immediately after the engine was rebuilt due to the AFR being way out. The car was put on the dynapack and a map created at just wastegate pressure up to 4000rpm. As some have said you need to seat the rings and the rings are going to be under more pressure than most with the engine seeing plenty of boost later in life so its important to seat these. The key thing is get our fuelling right to prevent bore wash and glazing the cylinders and just run it in for the first 1000 miles. I've been recommended to remap my engine to my desired boost setting on the run in oil and then to change to the oil of my choice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,464 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
So will I be alright to bed the rings in with waste gates disconnected ? And would it affect the ecu as it won't see boost bearing in mind I will only do this for about 30 miles
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top