[D-Ranged]

So I have finally finished my single turbo install, everything is all plumbed in and i was looking forward to starting the car and hearing it properly.

I turned the car on, the revs went up then dropped and the engine spluttered and cut out. I have had the car running previous to this with the single turbo (to make sure it was all ok, not driven) and it seemed to run fine but i have just recently taken the plenum off to remove some water lines and put it back on and also fitted a catch tank.

If i hold the throttle open it will run, although a bit lumpy and seems that its over fueling alot as its burning my eyes! Once its warmed up a bit it seems to stay on for a little while but start spluttering more and more till it cuts out again

If i pull the map sensor pipe out of its mounting hole (where the old PCV valve was) then the car seems to start idling fine, although a little high. If i put my finger on the hole the map sensor pipe goes into you can feel a strong vacuum and that brings down the revs to a normalish range (around 1k).

The thing with the blue port is where the map sensor plugs into and it screws into that hole


What is weird is that the car is running without the map sensor pipe plumbed in and a lot better than with it plugged in too!!!

A little run down on the plenum refit -

I bought new metal gaskets and sprayed them with hylomar.
Also sprayed the plenum and throttle body faces with it for some extra sealing.
I cant really hear any air leaks but the car is very loud and in the garage.

I am running a Link G4 ECU currently with the map that came with it when i bought it from someone on here. He was running 600cc or 800cc injectors, not sure which.

I am running standard injectors and i have not yet changed the settings on the Link to them so i know that could have something to do with the bad running but would it make the engine splutter and cut out?

I haven't tried spraying the inlets with wd40 yet as it got to late and there are babies next door so didn't want to wake them.

Anyone else have any suggestions? I have checked under the plenum and everything is 100% plumbed in.

P.S. If anyone has been reading any of my other threads i decided to keep the IAC and ICV for now so running everything under the plenum...

Also, is it OK to run the car without the vacuum pipes plumbed into the waste gates so i can drive it to get the exhaust welded up? It will not be seeing any boost at all and the springs are 1bar anyway. Pretty sure someone told me that you don't need to run a boost controller at all really if you are sticking to that boost range... Just wanted to confirm.

 

[Brains]

Guaranteed it's because you've switched injectors without changing the map.
It's running really lean due to half the injector size.
It works better with the map in free air because it thinks it's a higher pressure in the manifold than what it is therefore giving it more fuel.

 

[xxfr]

Umm, you should not have your map sensor plumbed into the PCV valve location. You are essentially connection your map sensor to the inside ofy our cam covers. This is not where you want it to be.

Map sensor is to be connected to the the boost/vacuum hose, try the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator.

And block that PCV valve location, seal it off. Make sure you have the top of the cam cover breathers connected to a catch can or at least venting since you are blocking the PCV valve.

 

[Brains]

Umm, you should not have your map sensor plumbed into the PCV valve location. You are essentially connection your map sensor to the inside ofy our cam covers. This is not where you want it to be.

Map sensor is to be connected to the the boost/vacuum hose, try the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator.

And block that PCV valve location, seal it off. Make sure you have the top of the cam cover breathers connected to a catch can or at least venting since you are blocking the PCV valve.

You do know that it leads down into the balance tube on the intake manifold?
Lots of people, including myself, have their map sensor there.

 

[xxfr]

You do know that it leads down into the balance tube on the intake manifold?
Lots of people, including myself, have their map sensor there.

Nope, I didn't.

Apologies if what I have said doesn't work. Try it out though.

 

[Brains]

Nope, I didn't.

Apologies if what I have said doesn't work. Try it out though.

When you are running without boost pressure it uses the intakes vacuum to create a vacuum in the crank case through the crank case ventilation.
The one-way valve is there to close it on boost so it doesn't shoot pressure down the crank case and instead it uses the vacuum between the turbo and air filter.

 

[D-Ranged]

Guaranteed it's because you've switched injectors without changing the map.
It's running really lean due to half the injector size.
It works better with the map in free air because it thinks it's a higher pressure in the manifold than what it is therefore giving it more fuel.

Thanks Brains, really hope it is that!!!

Is it just the latency settings i need to change on the Link for the injectors?

Thinking about it, before I took the plenum off and had the car running, i put the map sensor on the vacuum source for the standard wastegates (now removed) just to get the car running to test its OK and it did the exact same thing!

Fingers crossed, thanks again mate!

 

[D-Ranged]

Also does anyone know the dead times for the stock injectors and any other settings for them i will need to add to the ecu settings?

 

[Brains]

Check if they have a number on them and Google that number.

 

[D-Ranged]

Check if they have a number on them and Google that number.

Already done a quick google search but not much has come up but will do another one later with the numbers.

 

[D-Ranged]

So i changed the dead time settings at 14v as that is what the ECU reads at idle to what the default map that comes with the Link and it still didn't like it. I had to increase the latency to 1.10 for 14v and the car seems to idle OK, although the revs keep going up and down every now and then around 200rpm and feels quite lumpy.

I tried using the base map that comes with the Link and the car wont even start! The IAT sensor is reading 100c when i do that and is showing red. I tried messing about with some settings but couldnt get it working so i have to stick to the map that came with my Link at the moment. I am not able to drive the car yet as i still need to bolt the bumper back on and put the clutch slave cylinder back on so dont know how its going to behave with some load through the engine.

Also, i forgot to mention - I don't currently have my wideband (and dont have lambdas) hooked up as i need to get my exhaust flange welded on as the wideband goes in that so the ECU is not getting any wideband readings, the map that came with the Link was setup to read the Wideband sensor that i got with it (PLX Wideband), could this be causing rough idle too? I had thought that you can run without lambdas or a wideband as you can unplug the standard ones with standard ecu and the car still runs?

This is a link to the map I am currently using, if anyone could have a look at it and make some changes if they see anything to get me running a bit better till i can get the exhaust and wideband sorted that would be great. The previous car the Link was in had 600cc injectors and larger cams and a few other bits too, plus was still running twins.

Anyone looking for a map to get your car running then feel free to use this and do what you like with it, as I said, I cant get my car started with the base map! -

Download Map that came with ECU adjusted dead times.pcl from Sendspace.com - send big files the easy way

My current setup -

Precision 6266 Dual Ball Bearing Turbo
6 Boost Manifold
Twin Tial 38mm Wastegates
Stock Cams
Stock Injectors (Will be ordering some 1000cc next month)
Using built in Map sensor on Link

 

[Brains]

Is the ignition timing set correctly?
My suggestion is to wait for at least the wideband to get installed before messing about and looking for problems.

 

[D-Ranged]

Is the ignition timing set correctly?
My suggestion is to wait for at least the wideband to get installed before messing about and looking for problems.

It is on my car but i dont know about the map as the person who had the ecu before had different cams.

I dont really know how to map i just know how to change the settings in the ECU...

 

[Brains]

It is on my car but i dont know about the map as the person who had the ecu before had different cams.

I dont really know how to map i just know how to change the settings in the ECU...

Get the lambda installed and check that your timing matches what the ecu says.

 

[D-Ranged]

Get the lambda installed and check that your timing matches what the ecu says.

Would you not recommend driving it as it is to get the exhaust welded up? Or will it be fine, of course staying well away from boost...

 

[Brains]

Would you not recommend driving it as it is to get the exhaust welded up? Or will it be fine, of course staying well away from boost...

I would trailer it. If you really need to drive it then get someone to make the correct changes in the ecu for standard injectors and check your ignition timing with a timing gun.

 

[R33JONO]

If you are now running std injectors couldn't you cobble together some pipe work to fit a set of std afm's and borrow/ buy a std ecu and run it on that till you can get the link mapped properly?

 

[D-Ranged]

If you are now running std injectors couldn't you cobble together some pipe work to fit a set of std afm's and borrow/ buy a std ecu and run it on that till you can get the link mapped properly?

I've just booked my car in at Solid Fabrications in Orpington to have my exhaust welded up so will just get it towed there and see how it is after that.

I have AA breakdown cover, my car is broken down... Especially after they shafted me for £100 after I crashed my S14 a few months back and said if you crash the car you have to pay £100 but if its broken down its free. THE CAR WAS STILL MOVEABLE!

/rant over.

 

[MS33]

From the Skyline manual Alex.


Never tow a 4WD vehicle for a distance over 30km and do not exceed speed limit of 30kph.
Never tow a 4WD vehicle with front or rear wheels raised as can cause serious damage to the transaxle.

Mike

 

[D-Ranged]

From the Skyline manual Alex.


Never tow a 4WD vehicle for a distance over 30km and do not exceed speed limit of 30kph.
Never tow a 4WD vehicle with front or rear wheels raised as can cause serious damage to the transaxle.

Mike

Cheers Mike, I will ask them for a low flatbed or something.