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Stage 4 - 4.25 is perfectly useable on the roads and it's not overly expensive as you know. Mine is stage 4.25 and the power does get used happily.

The thing with these cars is they can run any bhp and be useable daily, there are 1000bhp cars that drive like standard cars until you lean on them lol
 

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Stock or stage 1.5,stage 1.5 consists of Y pipe, K&N drop in filters and downpipes and map of course. I had this done on my MY12 and it made a healthy 604bhp and 541lb of torque and sounded awesome with the downpipes and y pipe. Plenty of power and torque for any Road. Litchfields the guys.
 

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horses for courses then and depends on the driving you do (country roads or motorway) and your drivin style and personality......
 

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Depends on the power delivery more than anything. A well mapped Stage 5 car is perfectly usable, conversely, a poorly mapped stage 2 can feel harder to drive.
A lot depends on the roads, traffic and route where you use it as well.

Around by me, I have mostly decent roads, and on dry days 4.25 is perfect. In the wet, YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My feeling is at stage 4 the chassis feels like it could quite easily handle another 100bhp , but the engine gets a bit weezy up the rev range in the higher gears ( small turbos ) so i am thinking stage 5 would be ideal ( not that i have been in one )

Is there a huge difference with a capped stage 5 car v a stage 4 side by side ?
 

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My feeling is at stage 4 the chassis feels like it could quite easily handle another 100bhp , but the engine gets a bit weezy up the rev range in the higher gears ( small turbos ) so i am thinking stage 5 would be ideal ( not that i have been in one )

Is there a huge difference with a capped stage 5 car v a stage 4 side by side ?
Ill tell you soon???
 

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I've been stage 1 to 4 to 4.75 (4.5 with intercooler and intake manifold) ending up at 760bhp on the Litchfield dyno.

Stage 4 was definitely the sweet spot budget wise. I can feel the extra power but it's most apparent over 100mph which you're not going to be driving at for long on the road.

If money's no object then for road you really want to retain stock (or better) spool with as much power as possible top end.

For that you're probably looking at something like the EFR's and a built engine/box and you'd end up with about 850-900bhp and 700-750lbft.

Makes no sense financially as the extra 100lbft probably costs about £20k just to forge the engine and box.

Sensible head on would go for stage 4, do the downpipes too and put a pair of sports cats in the y-pipe. That's enough to have an brilliant road car.

You could make a case for running EFR's at 800bhp/630lbft (either litchfield if you've got deep coin reserves or linney if you are happy with 98% of the performance for more sensible cash) and I think it would be a brilliant car on the road but probably only a few % more enjoyable that a stage 4 for a lot more cash.
 

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I've been stage 1 to 4 to 4.75 (4.5 with intercooler and intake manifold) ending up at 760bhp on the Litchfield dyno.

Stage 4 was definitely the sweet spot budget wise. I can feel the extra power but it's most apparent over 100mph which you're not going to be driving at for long on the road.

If money's no object then for road you really want to retain stock (or better) spool with as much power as possible top end.

For that you're probably looking at something like the EFR's and a built engine/box and you'd end up with about 850-900bhp and 700-750lbft.

Makes no sense financially as the extra 100lbft probably costs about £20k just to forge the engine and box.

Sensible head on would go for stage 4, do the downpipes too and put a pair of sports cats in the y-pipe. That's enough to have an brilliant road car.

You could make a case for running EFR's at 800bhp/630lbft (either litchfield if you've got deep coin reserves or linney if you are happy with 98% of the performance for more sensible cash) and I think it would be a brilliant car on the road but probably only a few % more enjoyable that a stage 4 for a lot more cash.
Stage 4 is really only future proofing as it uses huge injectors you dont need if your staying at stage 4, im stage 4 bigger FMIC , 102mm exhaust and agressive tune an im using 51% of the injector, bigger inlets , Y pipe and a tune I would say.
 

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My feeling is at stage 4 the chassis feels like it could quite easily handle another 100bhp , but the engine gets a bit weezy up the rev range in the higher gears ( small turbos ) so i am thinking stage 5 would be ideal ( not that i have been in one )

Is there a huge difference with a capped stage 5 car v a stage 4 side by side ?
I've gone from stock to stage 1,2,3,4 to stage 5 that i have now (EFR 6758 Litchfield turbos).

The stage 5 i have now its a big difference from the stage 4....I went from 685 hp and changed the turbos, intercooler, injectors. Dynoed at 816 hp because of the stock engine/gearbox. Thought that it shouldn't be a big difference but the change of the turbos feels like its a completely different car. Its pulling surprisingly hard on the hole powerband.

I would say that the stage 5 its the ultimate street car.

But from my experience you wont be satisfied even if you go for stage 5, it will keep you happy for 2-3 months and then you want more power.

I will have the EFR 6758 Litchfield turbos soon for sale. Only had them for nearly 4 month on the car. If you going to build your car in the winter time i'll have them on the sale section you could purchase in about 1-2 month ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've been stage 1 to 4 to 4.75 (4.5 with intercooler and intake manifold) ending up at 760bhp on the Litchfield dyno.

Stage 4 was definitely the sweet spot budget wise. I can feel the extra power but it's most apparent over 100mph which you're not going to be driving at for long on the road.

If money's no object then for road you really want to retain stock (or better) spool with as much power as possible top end.

For that you're probably looking at something like the EFR's and a built engine/box and you'd end up with about 850-900bhp and 700-750lbft.

Makes no sense financially as the extra 100lbft probably costs about £20k just to forge the engine and box.

Sensible head on would go for stage 4, do the downpipes too and put a pair of sports cats in the y-pipe. That's enough to have an brilliant road car.

You could make a case for running EFR's at 800bhp/630lbft (either litchfield if you've got deep coin reserves or linney if you are happy with 98% of the performance for more sensible cash) and I think it would be a brilliant car on the road but probably only a few % more enjoyable that a stage 4 for a lot more cash.
Damn this is good advice - i do find myself doing things to my car because i can and not because i need to
 

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I enjoyed stage 2 for three years (full system, panel filters and tune)
Enjoyed it thoroughly felt a lot quicker than stock, recently gone stage 4.25 with
Ets intercooler and again a lot quicker but even this is a risk seeing the
number of rods letting go nowadays, yes there are cars at even stock levels that
have had engine failures and then stage 5 cars that haven't, but I feel it's just a matter
of time, stage 2 is a good level to be at as a road car further than that one should consider
forging, I will be going further now when I'm ready because i feel im at more risk now,
turbo kit, forged engine next.
John
 

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Sensible.......about 50hp these days with the traffic, speed vans and dash cam vigilantes....
This set me to thinking. A 1.5 Renault Clio DCi £30 road tax, 0-60 in a long time and just over 100mph downhill with a tailwind. 2012 models circ £3 -4k.

Save the GTR for proper roads in Europe to which I'm off to tomorrow on the penultimate road trip of the year.
 
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