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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

After battling all week trying to get the standard twins off, I finally got them off this afternoon! My arms are ripped to shreds and my knuckles sore but it will be worth it in the end!

I am now at the point of fitting the oil lines and also need to know what to do with the old water lines as my turbo is oil cooled only.

I need to know where these bits go, if any one could help that would be great. Sorry for my n00by questions but I haven't done anything like this before so I basically don't know what I'm doing!

Does this go on to the turbo for the oil drain?





Does this screw into the block where the first turbo oil drain was?



Does this screw into the oil feed on the turbo? What end take the pipe? The domed end?



Does this go into the block where the two oil feeds are? How do you block the other side off? Or do you take the T bit out and screw this in there?



What is the best thing to do with the water lines? I have these left over. Is it best to remove it all from the back of the head to the plenum? If so any tips on doing that? If not how do i loop that to the front of the plenum?? Or if I do remove it from the back of the head, again, how do i loop it to the front? What size piping will i need etc?



Massive thanks for any help in advance!!!
 

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First 2 pics are of the oil drain which goes on the bottom of the turbo. Picture 3 will be the oil drain fitting into the block. Picture 4 is the Oil feed/restrictor that screws into the top of the turbo. Picture 5 should screw into the block for the oil feed.

The water feeds need to be blocked at the front of the engine, on the block and I would removed the pipework in the last picture and block it under the plenum. This is easier to get at if you remove the starter motor.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First 2 pics are of the oil drain which goes on the bottom of the turbo. Picture 3 will be the oil drain fitting into the block. Picture 4 is the Oil feed/restrictor that screws into the top of the turbo. Picture 5 should screw into the block for the oil feed.

The water feeds need to be blocked at the front of the engine, on the block and I would removed the pipework in the last picture and block it under the plenum. This is easier to get at if you remove the starter motor.

Richard
Thanks for the reply, Richard :)

So, Picture 5, Do i take the T piece out then? And then screw that into the block? or do I screw it into one end of the T piece and block the other end? If so, what can i use to block it?

Where are the water feeds at the front of the engine? Do you mean the one that runs from the front of the plenum round the front of the engine into the metal pipe work along the turbo side? What is the best way to block the water lines off?

Also what is the best way to block the second oil drain off? Just stick a silicone cap over the end?
 

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I would say that it looks like you just remove original tee and put in there.

Yeah the front one goes around to the top radiator hose. You can buy rubber bungs that will fit. Same with the waterline on the rear of the head. I have some screw in bungs to block the waterway on the block.

The rear oil drain I would unbolt it and make a plate to go in its place to block it.
 

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PT 6266 CEA is air cooled, mate. Be very careful when you screw the restrictor into the turbo, if you move the fitting in the turbo housing, it wrecks the turbo! There is a warning label on the turbo.
 

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Also pour a small amount of oil into the restrictor fitting prior to fitting, this will make sure the turbo has some oil on first start up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cheers for the info guys. Do you know the size of the bungs I need to get and where from for the block and water ways?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Managed to get myself a couple of bungs off ebay for the block.

Does anyone know where i can get the rubber bungs to block the water lines off the front and back of the plenum?
 

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No, those are for blanking silicone hoses. I think you need silicone caps. What is it exactly you are try blank / cover?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Also do you use washers between the Earls fitting? Like between the oil feed port in the block and the earls fitting?

Or do you just screw it in without anything?
 

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To cap off the rear pipe you will need to cut off the flange, you can then use a silicone cap for the front / rear and secure with a hose clips. Measure the diameter of the pipes and speak to AP who will be able to supply them.

I decided to use a braided hose to connect the fittings, as I feel it is safer than capping them off with something which may fail under heat / pressure!

You don't need washers, the cone shape at the end of the fitting seals against the block.

Don't forget to re-postion and / or tape up the wiring that runs along the chassis, to prevent the turbo from melting it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
To cap off the rear pipe you will need to cut off the flange, you can then use a silicone cap for the front / rear and secure with a hose clips. Measure the diameter of the pipes and speak to AP who will be able to supply them.

I decided to use a braided hose to connect the fittings, as I feel it is safer than capping them off with something which may fail under heat / pressure!

You don't need washers, the cone shape at the end of the fitting seals against the block.

Don't forget to re-postion and / or tape up the wiring that runs along the chassis, to prevent the turbo from melting it.
OK thanks mate.

Isn't the coned end for the pipe to go on?



I was going to get some heat wrap and wrap all the wiring, that's what you did wasn't it?
 

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Hmmm, my fitting was steel and had a cone at both ends. Did your fitting not come with instructions? If it screws into the block and goes tight with some thread still showing, you're probably correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hmmm, my fitting was steel and had a cone at both ends. Did your fitting not come with instructions? If it screws into the block and goes tight with some thread still showing, you're probably correct.
Yeah it screws in and goes tight.
 
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